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R9 290X Owners Thread

I think it's safe to say that your card is going to get really hot as soon as you apply any overclock to it. Nothing you can about it unfortunately unless you fit a customer cooler or put it under water.
 
Is there any tools available yet to modify the BIOS like we can on the 7900 series?

I don't remember seeing a BIOS modifying tool for 7900 series.

RBE tool was used for Caiman 6000 series.


ok ocd my vtx 290 unlocked to a 290x (thanks ocuk)



what would peeps say is a safe temp as it seems a bit high to me, and can i decrease the voltage or something rather than sacrifice the core speeds?

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/1749465

Safe temp for the GPU is obviously 95'C and below
 
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You can modify 7 series bios's with vbe7 bios tool its very easy and works really well, something similar for the r9 cards would be awesome, we can only hope.
 
ok ocd my vtx 290 unlocked to a 290x (thanks ocuk)

I have set the following anjd would like some advice please.

core voltage - +81
power limit +50
core clock - 1150
memory clock - 1450

now i think the stock cooler is noisey and dont want to increase the fan speed beyond 60%, but my max temps hit 93 while running 3d mark.

what would peeps say is a safe temp as it seems a bit high to me, and can i decrease the voltage or something rather than sacrifice the core speeds?

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/1749465
My advise is with the stock cooler, you should just stick with 1100/1450, drop the voltage to +30/+40. If you want high clock and lower temp, you MUST get 3rd party cooler. This the the conclusion I've came to having played around a lot with the stock cooler, till eventually installed the Gelid Icy Vision Rev2 cooler last night.

High voltage, high clock, low noise and stock cooler is not gonna fit into the same equation...this was the best balance I had when I was still on the stock cooler:
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showpost.php?p=25380555&postcount=21
 
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Was your memory overclocked or stock?

I've only witnessed this black screen whilst trying to push the memory very hard on the overclock.



Anandtech have re-done their review with the new drivers:-
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7501/amd-changes-290-series-fan-algorithms
I've been getting quite a few black screens while gaming on my VTX pre-flashed to 290x. I thought instead of going high overclock, I'd go low overclock instead.

I was just playing Bulletstorm, and was leaving the voltage at stock but increased power limit to +50%, overclocked to just a mere 1050/1325MHz, and I still got black screen. Could it be problem with Elpida Memory (which is what my card got)?

Can anyone confirm for me if you are getting black screen with Hynix as well?
 
What do the 290X generally overclock to under water (with voltage control)? Do they overclock better than the 780Ti ?

IMHO 1150-1190 are average , anything above 1200 is a good OC on 290/290x :) when you count 800mhz up it s a nice bonus , when you count from 1000/UBER mode / , it s not that great . I had about 7 GTX 780 to try , to test but nine of them ran stable at 1202 with the "allowed" VDDC .

780 were not so greta clockers as well
 
I'm thinking of getting a R290X and was wondering where I can get the PT1 and PT3 bioses. I'm not sure about the asus.rom bios either.

If I buy the Asus card am I getting the correct asus bios anyway for voltage tweaks, using the "Asus GPU Tweak software"? Are the PT1 and PT3 bioses' at a special location, if so where?

I just need a couple of links.

Thanx
 
I'm thinking of getting a R290X and was wondering where I can get the PT1 and PT3 bioses. I'm not sure about the asus.rom bios either.

If I buy the Asus card am I getting the correct asus bios anyway for voltage tweaks, using the "Asus GPU Tweak software"? Are the PT1 and PT3 bioses' at a special location, if so where?

I just need a couple of links.

Thanx

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=739529
 
My issue with display loss/ monitor signal loss while gaming with my 290X seems to be solved by putting the stock cooler back on it (after I had put on the Gelid Icy Rev2). Now I'm not suffering any display loss issues. Well, I was still getting a no signal issue with Dark Souls even with the stock cooler but that too seems to be fixed by playing the game in windowed mode now.

So any idea why the aftermaket cooler might have been giving me issues? I was ready to send the card back but now it seems to be in working order (on stock clocks, not OC'ing with this reference cooler). Tried the Gelid with different heatsinks / loosing the screws on the heatsink plate, but I was still getting the display problem.

Maybe someone will make an aftermarket air cooler designed from the ground up for this thing and I might try that. But for now I've sworn off using the Gelid Icy Rev or even trying the Accelero Xtreme.
 
My issue with display loss/ monitor signal loss while gaming with my 290X seems to be solved by putting the stock cooler back on it (after I had put on the Gelid Icy Rev2). Now I'm not suffering any display loss issues. Well, I was still getting a no signal issue with Dark Souls even with the stock cooler but that too seems to be fixed by playing the game in windowed mode now.

So any idea why the aftermaket cooler might have been giving me issues? I was ready to send the card back but now it seems to be in working order (on stock clocks, not OC'ing with this reference cooler). Tried the Gelid with different heatsinks / loosing the screws on the heatsink plate, but I was still getting the display problem.

Maybe someone will make an aftermarket air cooler designed from the ground up for this thing and I might try that. But for now I've sworn off using the Gelid Icy Rev or even trying the Accelero Xtreme.
It's not the issue with the cooler. It is other factor that are causing these random black screen. I'm using the Gelid as well, and I don't think I ever gotten black screen on stock clock...it only happens when I overclock the memory clock...the whole black screen issues that peoples' been having has pretty much point toward being memory issue (I'm suspecting not enough voltage thus unstable memory clock).

Also, I don't know how you managed to "screw down" the vrm heatsink and the screwholes on the PCB's don't match the position of the holes on the vrm sink...I just use the thermal adhesive tape to secure the two ends of the sink, stick them directly onto the PCB over the two screw holes. But I do think the vrm sink of the Gelid is not good enough for using high voltage, as the vrm1 temp can hit over 100C once using higher than +100mV (1.350mV) (but it can keep temp no higher than 90C with +50mV 1.30mV). I've already ordered the Alpenföhn Passive DRAM / VRAM Chip Coolers to see if replace the vrm heatsink with a bigger one would help with the temp.
 
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It's not the issue with the cooler. It is other factor that are causing these random black screen. I'm using the Gelid as well, and I don't think I ever gotten black screen on stock clock...it only happens when I overclock the memory clock...the whole black screen issues that peoples' been having has pretty much point toward being memory issue (I'm suspecting not enough voltage thus unstable memory clock).

Also, I don't know how you managed to "screw down" the vrm heatsink and the screwholes on the PCB's don't match the position of the holes on the vrm sink...I just use the thermal adhesive tape to secure the two ends of the sink, stick them directly onto the PCB over the two screw holes. But I do think the vrm sink of the Gelid is not good enough for using high voltage, as the vrm1 temp can hit over 100C once using higher than +100mV (1.350mV) (but it can keep temp no higher than 90C with +50mV 1.30mV). I've already ordered the Alpenföhn Passive DRAM / VRAM Chip Coolers to see if replace the vrm heatsink with a bigger one would help with the temp.

How come putting on the stock cooler pretty much solved my problems then? Maybe I did something wrong with the Gelid cooler, but I doubt it.

When I said "loosening the heatsink plate", I meant the main plate that you attach the cooler to the card. I didn't use the long heatsink for vrm, I used 4 or 5 smaller heatsinks along a line, attached with thermal adhesive tape.


EDIT: It seems Dark Souls is still giving me problems with monitor signal loss, regardless if I play windowed. Anyone got a 290X that can run Dark Souls at 2560x1440 using DSfix to see if they also get problems?
 
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Still getting the blackscreen crashes on bf4, definitely memory related and seems even worse with the 9.4 drivers.

Anything over 1400mhz on the memory and I get blackscreen crashes at random times :(
Wish it would give you some warning in the shape of artifacts beforehand though.

Hopefully as the drivers mature the problem will get fixed.

Just to clarify, this only happens when overclocking the memory, imo it's a driver issue and not a fault with the card.

9.2 was fine and I could bench at 1625.
 
How come putting on the stock cooler pretty much solved my problems then? Maybe I did something wrong with the Gelid cooler, but I doubt it.

When I said "loosening the heatsink plate", I meant the main plate that you attach the cooler to the card. I didn't use the long heatsink for vrm, I used 4 or 5 smaller heatsinks along a line, attached with thermal adhesive tape.


EDIT: It seems Dark Souls is still giving me problems with monitor signal loss, regardless if I play windowed. Anyone got a 290X that can run Dark Souls at 2560x1440 using DSfix to see if they also get problems?
Unfortunately, I think you are going through "if the problem doesn't occur for a while, "OMG YES IT'S FIXED" phase, and wanna believe any small changes you'd made has cure the problem (think we've all been in that position before :p)...and only to find the problem still exist when used it long enough.

The ONLY think that the reference cooler is better than the Gelid is the cooling of the vrm under load (when using higher voltage). As black screen problem is almost definitely caused by unstable clock on the memory (combined with driver)...I believe that the voltage they are using for the memory is may be too borderline sufficient...
 
I was tinkering a bit and decided to use 2 separate cables from my psu to the gpu.1 for the 8 pin and 1 for the 6 pin.Now i can run the card 1100/1400 at stock voltage and even reduced the coil whine a lot.
 
I was tinkering a bit and decided to use 2 separate cables from my psu to the gpu.1 for the 8 pin and 1 for the 6 pin.Now i can run the card 1100/1400 at stock voltage and even reduced the coil whine a lot.
Yea I recall Gibbo saying in his overclocking thread that running the card on seperate rail/two separate cables is more stable. I really should go find where my other PCI-E cable gone for my modular PSU...
 
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