Sounds like far more hassle than its actually worth.Again, 20+ years in two cars, and 5 years in another (and that one has calipers all round). No hasslesIt's expensive stuff to start using in the first place, but once in, it's pretty much fit and forget beyond normal checks. It's a pain to fit as you have to renew every rubber component in the system that comes in contact with the fluid as that negates the qualities of the silicone fluid. Not many people use it because of those reasons, or if they don't do it properly and then the seals start to leak quickly they complain.
It is *slightly* more compressible than standard fluid, and I wouldn't recommend it for more than the odd trackday use, but we're more than happy with it.
racing brake fluid
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Viscosity.
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If its a brake fluid sold in the UK that will not be an issue.
Mind you i guess its an issue when you select a brake fluid that you ensure you go for the brands that contain no iron filings, or the ones where the lid gives you MRSA.
Are you trolling or just randomly guessing at stuff, serious question, as ive never seen anyone mention 5.3 before either.
Mind you i guess its an issue when you select a brake fluid that you ensure you go for the brands that contain no iron filings, or the ones where the lid gives you MRSA.
Are you trolling or just randomly guessing at stuff, serious question, as ive never seen anyone mention 5.3 before either.
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Hows that any different to suggesting a brake fluid would be too thin to be fit for purpose?
Context my dear biggles chap, context. We're not in oilman land here.
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I didn't suggest that, Mattius did. What hoe. 
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Ninja Edit: it was a typo, I meant 5.1.
Depends how long you plan to keep the car (see thread on how long people keep their cars for thread)
I've got a joke about blowing a seal but I can't repeat it on the forums.
I use whatever they happen to have on the shelf, 4.1 normally and I'm a hardcore Racez0r.
wet boiling point is nothing to do with whether its raining or snowing, its whether or not the fluid has had the chance to absorb water yet
some of the info in this thread dynamite stuff
(this is info i put up on another board a couple years ago after having looked into it when changing my own brake fluid)
DOT 3 and 4 are non silicon based. DOT 5 is silicon based. (the non silicon ones eat paint, cannot be mixed with DOT 5 silicon based fluid)
the difference between DOT 3-4-5 is the minimum boiling
super DOT 4, DOT 5.1 are basically DOT 4 fluid that meets DOT 5 boiling points without needing to be silicon based.... ie DOT 5.1 can be mixed with dot 4 and 3 and used interchangably.
dot 5 is therefore very different to non silicon based. it sounds like most dot 4 are fine for road use, but if you want to go for over kill (i do, most others will too!) then super dot 4 and dot 5.1 is the way forward.
that is what i have discovered via google, so please correct me if im wrong
DOT 3 and 4 are non silicon based. DOT 5 is silicon based. (the non silicon ones eat paint, cannot be mixed with DOT 5 silicon based fluid)
the difference between DOT 3-4-5 is the minimum boiling
super DOT 4, DOT 5.1 are basically DOT 4 fluid that meets DOT 5 boiling points without needing to be silicon based.... ie DOT 5.1 can be mixed with dot 4 and 3 and used interchangably.
dot 5 is therefore very different to non silicon based. it sounds like most dot 4 are fine for road use, but if you want to go for over kill (i do, most others will too!) then super dot 4 and dot 5.1 is the way forward.
that is what i have discovered via google, so please correct me if im wrong
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An atmosphere of higher humidy will naturally mean that fluids that tend towards absorbing water in the form of water vapour etc will do so at an accelerated rate, therefore over the typical 2 year brake fluid life a higher portion of it would be with a 'wet' fluid than in other climates so its particularly important you take note of this when you select a fluid, unless your planning to change it every 3 months. Its probably worth applying logic here and suggest that rainy/cold climates such as the UK have a relatively high average air humidity.
One at this point may then go on to ask where else do you think the water to wet a brake fluid may come from?
Whether you think this stuff is dynamite as in good or bad is of no real interest to me. There is plenty of good discussion with solid reasoning here to take note of.
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It actually means whether the fluid has absorbed a certain percentage of water such to be classed as a wet fluid rather than dry, from the moment you open the bottle it has 'the chance' to absorb water.
Yeah maybe we should ask the people who design the stuff....
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lol i appear to have caused a big argument
i havn't even touched the brakes yet as i'm scared of ******* up the the abs system
It sounds like you're asking if the pedal will feel firmer to me? That it won't. Unless you have cooked your brakes (in which case they will "fade") you don't need any better fluid. If you're scared to change it yourself (hardest part is you may find a ceased nipple or 2), then take it to any garage you trust. It's not a complex car which requires the expertise you find at a main dealer.
