Radiator question Swiftech H20Apex Ultra Plus Watercooling Kit)

easyrider

easyrider

easyrider

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Hi,

I have just ordered the Swiftech H20Apex Ultra Plus Watercooling Kit and notice that to install this rad you need to drill two holes in your case.

I have an Akasa Eclipse 62 case and was thinking that I might just cut a pci slot instead and have the tubing going through the bottom of the case with the rad upside down.

Will this make any difference having the rad upsidedown?

Thanks :)
 
Well the commen thinking is that it wont allow the system to bleed air as well as having it up the other way but i think that if the Res is up high then that will catch the air. I have this system and it takes about a days running for the system to fully bleed.
 
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Check out these pics - - - the kit comes with the square looking device to stick the radiator on the back. Its called a Swiftech "Radbox".

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g307/andyocuk/DSC00181.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g307/andyocuk/DSC00178.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g307/andyocuk/DSC00182.jpg

These are pics of my own rig with the asetek xtreme kit which is the same sort of quality and exact same radiator mounting dimensions as the swiftech. I just bought the radbox separately. As you can see, my case is also an eclipse 62 so these pics should provide all the evidence you need to relax!! lol

Also, you don't need a PCI cutting session. A PCI blocking plate is provided with purpose drilles and rubber covere holes for your tubing. (usually in most swiftech kits but don't quote me on that.)

Best regards

AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech Dept :)
 
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Looks cool, :cool:

I was thinking of using the bigger wider tubing so I think cutting pci slots might be needed.

Is using fatter tubing better or is there little difference?
 
Depends on the flow rate of the blocks. I'm pretty sure the kit is complete with evrything u need including the PCI plate with the right size holes pre drilled.

AndyOcUK
OcUK tech Dept
 
pegasus1 said:
I have this kit and can assure you that it comes with everything you could possibly need
Click to expand...

what size tubing are you using?

could you post a pick?

Did you drill holes in your case?

:)

Can you tell by all my questions I'm a watercooling noob lol :p
 
Pics are above. My kit is asetek (10mm tubes). I'm only using the swiftech Radbox mounting mechanism for the radiator. Swiftech tubing is half inch O/D (outside diameter.

Regards

AndyOcUK
OcUK tech.
 
Idle temps on A64 is pretty meaningless though as the cpu basically shuts down and generates next to no heat at all. Load temps are the only real measurement and only then if compared to the room ambient.
 
MikeTimbers said:
Idle temps on A64 is pretty meaningless though as the cpu basically shuts down and generates next to no heat at all. Load temps are the only real measurement and only then if compared to the room ambient.
Click to expand...
Surely that only applies if Cool and Quiet is enabled.
My idle temps are lower now im on water so it must make a difference. :confused:
 
pegasus1 said:
Surely that only applies if Cool and Quiet is enabled.
My idle temps are lower now im on water so it must make a difference. :confused:
Click to expand...

Cool'N'Quiet changes the multi and voltage according to load requirements. I'm talking about the cpu going into a HLT state which is completely different. Your idle temps will be lower but not by as much as your load temps, I suspect.
 
AndyOcUK said:
FX57 @ 3.2GHz

38 Degrees after 3 hours of prime 95.

Hope this answers your question guys.

AndyOcUK
OcUK tech Dept
Click to expand...

What ambient temperature?
What kind of rad and fan?
What flowrate from the pump?
What Vcore?
 
Hi,

What water do I use?

Distalled?
Deionized?

A miuxture of the two?

What gives the best results?

I want to get this right from the start.
 
easyrider said:
Hi,

What water do I use?

Distalled?
Deionized?

A miuxture of the two?

What gives the best results?

I want to get this right from the start.
Click to expand...
Whatever is easiest to get, for me de-ionised is more readilly available, no real difference between them for standard loop watercooling.

De-ionised is available from most garages/car accessory shops and some supermarkets (sold as battery or steam iron water).
Distilled is obtainable from chemists (larger ones may have to order it).
 
DaveMac said:
Whatever is easiest to get, for me de-ionised is more readilly available, no real difference between them for standard loop watercooling.

De-ionised is available from most garages/car accessory shops and some supermarkets (sold as battery or steam iron water).
Distilled is obtainable from chemists (larger ones may have to order it).
Click to expand...

I read that deionised water can corrode the waterblocks due to it wanting to get its ions back!

"Another alternative is de-ionized water. De-ionized or non-conductive water may seem desirable initially, because it is a poor electrical conductor, and therefore will not cause much damage if a leak occurs. However, water is an excellent solvent, and so if de-ionized water is put into a water cooling system, it will corrode the water blocks to get its ions back. Therefore, de-ionized water is not something we recommend, either" :confused:


Is this true? :eek:
 
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