Random 3D printing chatter

Hi, I’m a total noob at 3d printing or anything even close to that.
Any information people can give me, or direct me to read up on etc would be very much appreciated
I’m purchasing the H2C with laser printer and I know this may be abit much for a 1st printer but I’m looking at it long term, plus my kids want cosplay outfits so I’m hoping this model will help me with that. I’m hoping to find files in colour so I don’t have to paint them
Other than the Bambu Handy app, where is good to find printable colour files ?
Again I’m probably asking the wrong questions so please correct me as I’m willing to learn and this is gonna be a BIG learning curve for me, to even using a laptop! How hard can it be right
 
Last edited:
Whats the best way to deal with support struts when printing with PLA? I am trying to print an object with loads of overhangs, 1st print I chose auto normal supports and trying to remove them was a nightmare and I gave up after an hour. I am now re-printing again with auto tree mode. How do you remove the tree supports which smother the model?
 
Best way is to design not to need them. Sometimes you can tilt the whole model by 45° so that you don't need them...but then you have to design in support.
Worst case if you have multi-colour capability, you can use different filament for a support interface. There's specific support for PLA or you can use PETG. You just have to make sure to purge between the two materials I'd you're using a single nozzle. There's also dissolvable support but it's pricier.
 
RavenLunatic said:
Whats the best way to deal with support struts when printing with PLA? I am trying to print an object with loads of overhangs, 1st print I chose auto normal supports and trying to remove them was a nightmare and I gave up after an hour. I am now re-printing again with auto tree mode. How do you remove the tree supports which smother the model?
Click to expand...
Could try resin2fdm, easier to remove I find
 
Tree mode was much better, whats the best way to remove the tiny pieces that are to small to remove and rough edges with pliers? I am thinking using fire with a lighter or a heat gun. I should ask is PLA highly flammable? LOL
 
I tend to use a scalpel (mounted on a handle) for some parts. I also have a wide chisel that has the back very flat and smooth and decently sharpened that's useful for sliding across a flat surface and taking off any raised bits.
Obviously both of these are sharp and could injure you if handled improperly so be careful and at your own risk etc.

PLA can burn but you'll melt it well before then. Heat gun would be a lot better than a lighter (direct flame) but heat tends to be better for getting rid of really fine stringing more than supports.
 
Get a half decent toolkit, generally come with a few different shaped files, debur tools, blades etc for tidying up stuff.
 
OK to print TPU95 on the Bambu standard textured plate ?. Not printed TPU on the P2S before, have some very old TPU to try out and see how it goes(TPU 10% humidity)
Feed directly from the top to the hot end.
 
Last edited:
Troop said:
OK to print TPU95 on the Bambu standard textured plate ?. Not printed TPU on the P2S before, have some very old TPU to try out and see how it goes(TPU 10% humidity)
Feed directly from the top to the hot end.
Click to expand...

Never had any issues. Seems to stick to the plate very well and removal can feel like 'tearing' it off, but I've never damaged a print.
 
I believe Bambu recommend either smooth or textured PEI but with glue stick or liquid glue; not to increase adhesion but to aid removal as it can stick too well. If you have a look at their filament store page, it usually tells you what temps, plates etc and if you should use AMS or not.
 
Last edited:
I managed to pick up an E3D Hemera off eBay for the cheeky sum of £10.80, barely used.

I had the E3D Titan & V6 hotend previously, and while it was a solid upgrade from the stock Ender 3 hotend and extruder setup, it wasn't fantastic. I recently wanted to print something in TPU and the Titan was having none of it, which is when I started looking at my options and came across the Hemera on eBay, and immediately clicked buy it now. I didn't think the seller was even going to post it, expecting a message to say it had been priced incorrectly, but a few days later it turned up in near enough as new condition.

XHvhNjhZ


My old setup
WZxI2azJ


Followed a few hours later by the new. I had to take a heat gun to the part cooling duct and push it inwards slightly for some clearance for the bl-touch, as this dust wasn't made by the same person that made the mount.
Lukt7q5f


Overall I'm very happy with the upgrade. I spent several hours at the weekend dialling in the basics like extruder steps, z-offset, flow calibration, retraction/temperature towers, then onto all the Klipper things like pressure advance and resonance compensation measured with an accelerometer. I did a 3d benchy at 300mm/s and 3800mm/s accel and it printed just about perfectly.

Will have a go at some TPU soon and see how it fares. Annoyingly, I caught my finger in the hotend fan and snapped a blade off, so got a Sunon maglev fan on order to replace it.
 
Be interested to find out how it prints. I rehomed my Ender 5 Pro and the Hermera I hadn't got round to installing at an heducational institution...but somehow they (from what I'm told) managed to set it on fire. If your Hermera came from Watford, that could well be it! :rolleyes:
 
Cenedd said:
Be interested to find out how it prints. I rehomed my Ender 5 Pro and the Hermera I hadn't got round to installing at an heducational institution...but somehow they (from what I'm told) managed to set it on fire. If your Hermera came from Watford, that could well be it! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I'll get some prints done in the week, hopefully. It was from near Dorset, so not the same one I don't think lol. Seller said it was for a custom printer that's since been decommissioned. The Hemera is a nice unit. A bit weighty, but I don't think it's any worse than my previous setup.
 
About 6 months into having my Centuri Carbon 1.
Mostly happy with it, but had to change the USB cable to the print head as the original had cracked and prints were stopping with errors, one of them a 6 hour print that failed with about 10 layers to go :(

Use Elegoo and Deeplee PLA & PETG filaments, always good.

Recently bought a Cyrogrip Pro Frostbite Panda build plate, wish I bought one sooner, prints (esp PETG) release very easily.

Also doing print by object a lot more, prints take longer and can’t do as many on a plate but find the overall finish is a lot better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom