Random 3D printing chatter

Alright, THIS is what's been giving me grief. This is the reprint with all one spool of filament - rather than the hodgepodge of two different brands of white that looked awful and cracked because it didn't fit.



The dovetails are tapered with one tapered top to bottom and the smaller tapered bottom to top. The idea is taken from NeedItMakeIt's video on joining prints.



Can ya tell what it is yet?!
Now this is what was frustrating me. These are my test print in Sunlu black PETG with zero clearance and it fitted perfectly. The black one before that with 0.1mm (0.05 per side) was too loose! Then the white one is my 2nd test print in white because the fit was completely differently to the black. :rolleyes: Had to add taper to the longest dovetail and also 0.1mm of clearance but left the others as they were - they were short enough that a tap of a hammer should seat them.



And the finished article with 3mm steel dowel pins just to really make sure. It's just under 300g of filament per side....'cos I didn't want it to break :D Sides are 3-4mm, bottom is 10mm (for the dovetails mainly) and it's 4 wall with 25% crosshatch infill.



Why so much swearing? Well, if you look along the long edge, you'll see a line all the way round it about 9-10mm up from the bottom. Yeah, that's not in the model and prints every time...except the cut-down joint tests where it doesn't happen. No idea why (answers on a postcard please!) but it seems to be at the start of the top layers that sit on the infill. I designed in a recessed channel on the 2nd part to try and stop it interfereing in the dovetail...because 0.12mm of ridge (on each side) is a problem when you have zero clearance. There's another sort of layer shift on one part (left side of this pic) towards the top. That's annoying but not functionally problematic.
There's probably one question left: Why?! Well, obviously the original cracked - I think it got overstuffed at Christmas and the wedging action cracked the bottom out. There must be replacements available I hear you say! Well, that's what I thought but they're £30-odd quid plus shipping and take up to three weeks. Neither part of that was appealing!
 
Not sure if what you're getting at is exactly this but - and forgive me if I'm barking up the wrong tree - I've for a while been taking the stance that these more network'y devices that use remote services are not under my control or supervision. I don't control the firmware or what they do or when....and so they don't get on my main network, only on an untrusted guest network. Same for modern TVs with network/wifi connections. It's weirdly for this reason that I'm still using the Bambu cloud stuff because I've not poked the required holes between the two networks to enable LAN mode - that's assuming it'll work across routed subnets....although they mentioned VPN access so it ought to.
 
Do all printers end up slightly modded?

Pretty much, yeah. The difference is in how much. You start lower down the chain (or older stuff) and you're making mods to the fundamentals of making it actually work rather than tweaking it to your requirements. The Ender 5 Pro, for example, needed an extruder that didn't just chew the filamt, a better hot end, less obnoxious fans, a control board that didn't mis-shape your prints (not fast enough so steppy), a bed that didn't suck and fan control that wasn't implemented by a psychopath. The X1C just needed more light and a plate that didn't require faffing about with glue constantly. It could do with a riser as well, to be fair....I just never got round to it.
 
The side panels are printed with 2.65mm holes which M3 screws tap themselves in to
The other thing that works well is to print the threads fully-modelled into the hole. It'll come out too small (especially when you're talking M3) but all the plastic will be in roughly the right place - ie the number of walls and so on. Then you run a tap down the hole to bring them to size. The printed threads at least partially guide the tap so it's easier to get it straight too. The only place this doesn't work are shallow blind holes....you just can't get the tap in because it's got a pointy end and a taper. You might get away with using a screw as a blunt-ended tap (more extreme than a bottoming tap) given that it's plastic and the threads are already printed but too small.
 
I've got to agree. I suspect (read "hope"!) that all the cloud hysteria will turn out to be just that....or at least be mitigatable using X1 Plus firmware (may not help you with a P1) or developer mode.

wanted to be able to work with more than just PLA and an enclosure was going to be inevitable with ABS, PETG etc.

PETG you won't need an enclosure for...not that it hurts. You may need to open the glass lid for PLA though as annoyingly it can hurt that with a nozzle clog. Only had it with PLA-CF to be fair.
Thing with ABS is that it was the thing to aspire to being able to print when I couldn't. One of the things that influenced my choice of the X1C in fact. Now I can print it, I bought a spool...and it's still unopened. I did have a go with ASA but to be honest, that was only because a relative wanted the colour and that was the only spool. The main reason? I've just not found the reason to outdo the negatives of it. ASA is 'easier', doesn't warp as much etc....but was still a pain and (for this particular use) no better that PETG that would have been cheaper and easier.
I've got a spool of ABS-GF as Clough42 (YouTube) found it dimensionally stable and less warp'y....but I've not yet found cause to use my precious special spool - you'll either get that of think I'm nuts.... either is fine :p
Bambu's PETG-CF was good for strength and less of a pain than Eryone's (dribble and cardboard spool - not good for AMS). Still needed to be set slower for first top layer to make it stick rather than slide off the infill.
Bambu's PET-CF (no G for Glycol) was good for temperature tolerance....if you need that for a part.
Some of the PPS-CF sounds interesting but you'd need the requirement to justify the outlay.
 
Totally; never let someone tell you that you can't/shouldn't try something*.... there's a good chance they're wrong...or that the rules have changed since they were an authority on the subject. :D

*Within reason, obviously ;)
 
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