@b0rn2sk8 Be interested to know if you find any benefit in larger nozzles. The 0.2 is definitely useful for small text or maybe something that needs finer detail. Significantly slower though. I've tried a 0.6 and it makes no significant difference to speed - it squirts more plastic but moves slower. I wonder if the hotend just isn't capable of pmelting enough plastic fast enough to properly take advantage of the extra size. You can check times in the slicer by just telling it that it has different size nozzles.
Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
- Start date
You can absolutely get faster speeds out of the 0.6. You probably want to increase the layer height to get full advantage of it.
That said, I’ve not actually used it as the 0.4 is optimal for most things I do and I couldn’t be bothered to swap it for the new prints where the 0.6 would have sped things up.
The 0.2 is very slow by comparison but absolutely necessary for smaller detailed prints.
That said, I’ve not actually used it as the 0.4 is optimal for most things I do and I couldn’t be bothered to swap it for the new prints where the 0.6 would have sped things up.
The 0.2 is very slow by comparison but absolutely necessary for smaller detailed prints.
Was hoping to get some feedback on these prints from my Ender3. I’m overall happy and impressed but as a newbie I don’t know what/if I should be looking to improve. Printed my first calibration cube 
Bit of debris in the middle of the Y but the X looks great. What do you think of the Z surface?
Bit of stringing on the back of this low poly Squirtle.
Bit of debris in the middle of the Y but the X looks great. What do you think of the Z surface?
Bit of stringing on the back of this low poly Squirtle.
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@b0rn2sk8 I'll have a more determined play in a slicer when I get a sec. I left it at default settings for 0.6 but maybe improvements can be had.
@Tesla Stringing could be retraction settings or could be the filament is wet. Given you say an Ender 3, it's a bowden tube setup (at least out the box) so retraction is somewhat harder to get perfect. Y looks good. X has bulged rounded corners which might be the Pressure Advance is wrong...but I'm not sure an Ender 3 has settings for that. Z looks fairly good, it's not under-extruded, could even be a little over-extruded - it's difficult to tell how rough it is in the picture but the left corner looks rougher. You can use ironing but it's a mixed blessing as it tends to mean you get your nozzle caked in plastic that then fouls other parts - especially with PETG. Might be worth printing some extrusion test pieces at different rates and seeing if that can be tuned.
@Tesla Stringing could be retraction settings or could be the filament is wet. Given you say an Ender 3, it's a bowden tube setup (at least out the box) so retraction is somewhat harder to get perfect. Y looks good. X has bulged rounded corners which might be the Pressure Advance is wrong...but I'm not sure an Ender 3 has settings for that. Z looks fairly good, it's not under-extruded, could even be a little over-extruded - it's difficult to tell how rough it is in the picture but the left corner looks rougher. You can use ironing but it's a mixed blessing as it tends to mean you get your nozzle caked in plastic that then fouls other parts - especially with PETG. Might be worth printing some extrusion test pieces at different rates and seeing if that can be tuned.
Man of Honour
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Surprisingly had very little issue with my first attempt at printing TPU.
Took a little playing with the Z-Offset as it’s a bit like PETG and doesn’t like any real first layer squish.
I’d also swapped the bed springs for the solid silicone mounts but they’ll be going back in the drawer and I’m swapping back to springs. Trying to get that first layer right had highlighted that my bed is high on the right hand side so needs a little tracing adjustment
Took a little playing with the Z-Offset as it’s a bit like PETG and doesn’t like any real first layer squish.
I’d also swapped the bed springs for the solid silicone mounts but they’ll be going back in the drawer and I’m swapping back to springs. Trying to get that first layer right had highlighted that my bed is high on the right hand side so needs a little tracing adjustment
That is not a topic for this I think
Houston, I think we have a problem.......
First ams print turned out good, but omg the poop. I knew there would be a bit but not this much.
The default 'flush' settings was 0.7, and I've changed this to 0.6. Also 'Flush to infill' is now ticked. Anything else I could try??
First ams print turned out good, but omg the poop. I knew there would be a bit but not this much.
The default 'flush' settings was 0.7, and I've changed this to 0.6. Also 'Flush to infill' is now ticked. Anything else I could try??
Associate
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Not really much you can do, Ideally I would have wanted to have printed the white circles of the mushroom along with these eyes separately and stuck them on, probably not be so great as it has a crochet effect though. Unless you're printing multiple of those off, the AMS isn't very economical.
Looking at the P1S at the moment, I'm just trying to work out if the premium for the AMS 2 Pro is worth it or not
There's two things I'd say:
1. If you're planning to do lots of multi-colour prints like Cyclone above, an H2D (or for that matter a multi-head Prusa) would save you a lot of filament wastage. (Sorry Cyclone, I was trying not to say "Well if only you'd..." )
2. If you're planning to buy a filament dryer, you can offset the cost of the AMS 2 against that. Just bear in mind that it doesn't get to the higher temps needed by some filaments - that's what the single-roll dryer in the series is for.
1. If you're planning to do lots of multi-colour prints like Cyclone above, an H2D (or for that matter a multi-head Prusa) would save you a lot of filament wastage. (Sorry Cyclone, I was trying not to say "Well if only you'd..."
)2. If you're planning to buy a filament dryer, you can offset the cost of the AMS 2 against that. Just bear in mind that it doesn't get to the higher temps needed by some filaments - that's what the single-roll dryer in the series is for.
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I’ve had a lot of issues with the hotend on my P1S to the point that I’m considering sending it back. In the brief time I’ve managed to print anything off, the non pro AMS has been great. The AMS 2 has an integrated dryer which you may find useful but whether it’s useful enough to fork out the extra is another matter
lol no worries. It's a learning curve
This looks neat, Bondtech INDX. Was tempted by another Bambu (would probably convince myself the H2D was "worth it"), but reckon I should finally look at building a Voron to add this later.