RC Drift thread!

Good looking shell Mohinder :)

190mm shells fit on a 200mm car, a 190mm NSX shell is currently on my RS4 and the wheels stick out a little looks mean as :D
 
Well my split rims are now done (chrome lip with black spokes), the drift rubber is on the way, and I am trying to track down a Silvia shell (also got an S2000 on the way) :D
 
paradigm said:
Well my split rims are now done (chrome lip with black spokes), the drift rubber is on the way, and I am trying to track down a Silvia shell (also got an S2000 on the way) :D
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:D pics of the split rims needed !
 
play != race.

Racing involves a lot of skill, close action, and depending on the circuit, some very interesting racing lines (ashby woulds banked corner for the win)!
 
Well my car came on Wednesday (was no one in to collect it on Tuesday :o ) and I still haven't had the chance to start the static run ins yet. Tonight is out as is all weekend, Monday is a possible but I work late on Mondays.

Hmmm... maybe I should have thought more about how much free time I actually have before I bought it :p

Anyway the car seems really good, the bodyshel does seem very close to the ground at stock, I may look into raising the ride height setting if thats possible.

I was just wondering about the suspension spacers. The manual says front only but the back suspension seems very soft out of the box. I'm assuming thats to help with traction?

My main concern is that the body hits the deck at the back with very little pressure on the back suspension (and with loads of suspension travel left) so I can see the shell getting mashed pretty quick :(

Also the roto start. I have to put the starter in at a very slight angle as the suspension gets in the way, is that normal too?

Last but not least. A guy at the local model shop (not a member of staff) was talking about topping up with fuel with the engine running. Surely a bad idea as the tank needs pressure from the exhaust doesn't it?
 
Excellen, that will save a lot of hassel!

Sorry for all the questions (I really should know all these answers as I've had a nitro before :o ) but just one more- After run oil. I never used this on my old car, should I have done and should I use it on my new one?
 
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lordrobs said:
After run oil. I never used this on my old car, should I have done and should I use it on my new one?
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Run a decent branded fuel (tornado for cars will suffice), and you won't need after-run oil, mine has never run it and its still going strong.
 
Awesome vids. I'm not dure you could get that degree of control with a nitro but I intend on giving it a good go over the next couple of months :D

Cheers for the info Paradigm, if it looks like I'm not going to be using it for a couple of months I'll drop some in but otherwise I won't bother.

I got the beasty run in and tuned on saturday, well 80% tuned anyway, theres loads of smoke at full throttle so I can probably lean it up a bit but the carpark I was in wasn't huge so it was a case of full throttle, **** turn, turn :eek: *phew* I was a bit concerned doing the static runs with fuel running out of the exhaust but I just ran with it for the first two tanks but I had to lean it up a bit to get it to drive. I won't post a pick of how many scrapes the underside of the chassis has picked up already :o :p.

Can't wait to get my drift tyres on for a blast, not that I was having any trouble going sideways on the standard ones :cool:

Eliot- If you mean the OP's video then they are HPI Nitro 3 EVO's like the first 4 on this page and are what I've just bought and can highly recommend.

Its a world apart from my first nitro car which was so frustrating and would cut out constantly. This runs through a full tank without cutting out at all, fill her up and it starts first time and runs for another full tank.

I must say I'm loving Roto-start too, maybe thats just me being lazy :O
 
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