Redoing the En Suite

NoNameNoNumber · 14 May 2022 at 18:51

The floor joist on the right, must stop where that noggin I need to drill is as it intersects the SVP.
There's no wall below, so I imagine the floor joist is being held up by that noggin.
I need to get the 100mm waste through too though as it turns out.

katie279 · 14 May 2022 at 19:46

200sols said:
I would use 12mm hardibacker boards.

You shouldnt tile over paint either, if that wall is plaster boarded i'd just rip it out and replace tbh.

I went with marmox as I was doing UFH also and extra insulation means fair bit of money saved in long run!

ANDARIAL · 15 May 2022 at 08:24

200sols said:
You can get slowset adhesives with 6-12 hour working times. Tub adhesive is crap, only suitable for small tiles and sometimes mosaics.

Been out of touch since i retired but i never saw porcelain adhesive with long working times.must be something `newish`

NoNameNoNumber · 15 May 2022 at 10:50

I have a plan

Stud out the back wall enough to accommodate the 100mm waste at its existing height.
Then we can build a niche in the wall for the shower.

Drop the 40mm waste down into the floor to suit the shower waste

On the left hand side, extend the studding out to hide the 100mm waste, up to waist height to make a shelf full length of the room. Put a hidden cistern in there too.

NoNameNoNumber · 29 May 2022 at 10:25

Went a slightly different route.
100mm waste is staying where it is, I got the 40mm waste through the joist though, the regs above stated a 56mm hole was ok in the middle of the joist so I've managed to get the wastes where I need them.

I battened out the joists, to allow me to sink the old 18mm in between the joists, with another 18mm on top. 36mm of structural ply should do the job

Shower tray levelled up and bedded on Mapei Keraquick

Reuben klang · 29 May 2022 at 19:59

I’d use tile backer board for the floor as well rather than ply.

NoNameNoNumber · 29 May 2022 at 20:07

Reuben klang said:
I’d use tile backer board for the floor as well rather than ply.

On top of two layers of 18mm?

Reuben klang · 29 May 2022 at 20:14

NoNameNoNumber said:
On top of two layers of 18mm?

I’d have the floor level using the tile backer so the entire floor is waterproof belt and braces but much better for tiling too boot.

JRJ · 29 May 2022 at 20:29

12mm ply and 6mm backer board.

NoNameNoNumber · 29 May 2022 at 21:32

I was going to use latex self levelling compound on the ply wood to bring it to the level of the shower tray (about 3mm diff)

200sols · 30 May 2022 at 07:47

Why would you use two lots of ply, ditch that idea. Go with one lot of 18mm ply and top with 20mm marmox, its insulated which helps with heat loss and the extra 2mm will bridge your gap meaning you dont need to self level.

Reuben klang · 30 May 2022 at 19:41

200sols said:
Why would you use two lots of ply, ditch that idea. Go with one lot of 18mm ply and top with 20mm marmox, its insulated which helps with heat loss and the extra 2mm will bridge your gap meaning you dont need to self level.

JRJ said:
12mm ply and 6mm backer board.

NoNameNoNumber said:
I was going to use latex self levelling compound on the ply wood to bring it to the level of the shower tray (about 3mm diff)

Either way works, too many names for tile backer board these days, I’d certainly do 200sols method though.

NoNameNoNumber · 15 Jun 2022 at 12:46

I've been wiped out with Covid, the pregnant mrs has too so slow progress!

Got most of the room boarded out, and the tiles have arrived.

Any reason not to us an S2 adhesive?
I know they say it isn't quite as strong as an S1 but still plenty good enough for what I need, with the added bonus of not cracking

Ultra Tile Fix ProFlex Rapid Set S2 Fibre Reinforced Flexible S2 Adhesive Grey 20kg

Rapid Set Grey 20kg Bag Coverage 4.5kg per square metre at 3mm Bed Thickness

www.protilertools.co.uk

UltraTileFix ProFlex S2 is a single part, rapid setting, flexible, fibre reinforced adhesive for wall and floor tiles.

It is specially formulated with FibreBond technology, enhanced adhesion and flexibility, making it ideal for areas where movement or vibration can occur.

Ideal for use with all types of tiles including brick slips, resin backed and quartz

Formulated with FibreBond technology

Ultimate S2 flexibility for timber floors including swimming pools & underfloor heating systems

3-20mm Bed thickness

60 Minutes pot life

3.5 Hours set time

20kg : 4.0L Mixing ratio

Conforms to C2F S2

20kg Lifetime guarantee

Coverage (approx):

Buffman · 16 Jun 2022 at 19:51

Have you ever tiled before? What's the s2 adhesive for? It will be fine but remember the fast setting stuff sets (unnecessarily so I find..)

NoNameNoNumber · 18 Jun 2022 at 12:10

I have tiled before yes, just never with hexagonal tiles. I spoke to pro tiler tools, they said the s2 is the best for what I want, and I've had success with Ultra Tile fix before.

200sols · 18 Jun 2022 at 12:26

Its pretty horrible stuff to work with but undoubtedly very good at what it does. I've used it on floors a lot and its never failed.

NoNameNoNumber · 18 Jun 2022 at 12:33

Perfect

Any tips on whether to do the walls or floor first?
I understand walls first is conventional, but i want the pattern to match from the floor up the walls, and I think it'll be more dictated by the shower waste.
These are the tiles and colour combo/pattern I want

National Trust Tile Collection - Woodland Glade Porcelain Melange Green

Free delivery is subject to the minimum order quantity. If you wish to order less than minimum quantity, please contact us for a shipping cost.

www.periodpropertystore.co.uk

200sols · 18 Jun 2022 at 13:07

NoNameNoNumber said:
I understand walls first is conventional, but i want the pattern to match from the floor up the walls,

You can set out and plan all the before you start, I always batten the walls out 1 tile or cut tile left down the floor, then tiles all the walls, then floor and then infill the last tile to the floor. Setting out can take a while.

Recently did an en suite with feature wall wrap down to the floor and up another boxing, similar to what you want to do but with square tiles, premise is the same with hexagons though try to avoid any odd cuts at the edges of walls or ceiling/floor.

See the batten and also the wedges, highly recommend using wedges as well as normal spacers if needed. In this case I started full tile from the shower tray.

Wall was tiled first and then floor and missing tile on wall after. I find it eeasier this way.

Its all in the planning, often you can spend a while setting out and often there will be compromised around windows, or choosing which feature to frame. Try and avoid any small slithers of tile as the eye is drawn to those straight away.

Mercenary Keyboard Warrior · 18 Jun 2022 at 13:48

floor should be first, theory is that should you have water run down the tiles it doesnt go under the floor but hopefully out onto the floor

NoNameNoNumber · 18 Jun 2022 at 14:08

That's how I did my last bathroom, screwed battens all the way around the room 1 tile high, did all the walls and then the floor, finally dropping the bottom row of wall tiles on at the end.
The risk in my mind is that I'm not confident enough that I would have all of the lines matching up as I've never done the same tile/pattern from floor to wall.
My laser level is just a pointer type too, not a line, so not ideal. Although I may be able to borrow one for an evening

Slightly different topic. All of the fittings for the shower valve, etc are all BSPP. No tapered threads, and no o rings or rubber seals at the bottom of the female thread. Do these just seal up using thread tape?

I'm with you on that MKW, it means I can continue the same pattern up the walls more easily... but, given that nothing is ever square, the patter will runout somewhere I guess.