Road Cycling Essentials

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OK, current shopping list for waterproofs and dry weather stuff:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Altura_Night_Vision_Waterproof_Overtrousers/5360044967/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/dhb_Finchdean_Short_Sleeve_Cycling_Jersey/5360035429/

http://www.discountcyclesdirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=9639{2}275

http://www.discountcyclesdirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=8131{2}275

http://www.discountcyclesdirect.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=9147{1}8{2}276

Trying to keep costs down or at least stick to the essentials until the 28th rolls around (pay day!). Pay day I intend to get lights and a computer but the main thing I'm not sure about it shoes. Remember this is a commuting thing for the moment (big local bike race had me inspired yesterday though!).

I have toe clips at the moment and will just commute in my trainers and hope for the best during the 5 mile ride but I want to get me some waterproof shoes and intent to upgrade to cleats as I like the sound of them and im not too keen on the clips. Durability will be key however.
 
Don't worry about waterproof shoes, just get yourself a decent pair of overshoes (Endura spring to mind) for ~£15. They are also windproof so keep your toes toasty warm.
 
Yeah I tend to walk a fair deal, like stopping for a sandwich or taking photos etc. so the metal cleats would be a more sensible buy.

Just need to decide whether the stiffness of carbon over the plastic soles is worth the extra price.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;17359180 said:
My SPD cleats are indestructible because they are metal, but the keo ones are plastic with rubber for walking grip and every step or touch down wears them.

I have found that my SPD-SL cleats (the plastic road ones) are much better wearing than my old plastic keo ones and somehow, they also give better grip? :S
 
If you've got keo deltas (the older cleats) as opposed to keo grips then the SLs will have much better grip.

I would change my Keos but trying different pedals can prove expensive. So I use SPDs for commuting and Keos for weekends. Changing can be a hassle but it doesn't really take more than two minutes.
 
I've got Ultegra 6620 SPD pedals on the Pinarello and yellow cleats on my Shimano RO99 shoes. They are the same cleats I got new with the bike back in Sept 2008. :eek:

I use them every week for my commute as well as for training runs. Still working as good as they did in 2008, think that says it all. :cool:
 
Picked up my Boardman Road Comp yesterday, love it! I rode it from my girlfriends to my house in about 30 mins which is 7.2 miles and quite hilly. I only stopped for traffic lights, loved it. Not ridden or done anything fitness wise in over a year

All I need now is to get kitted out for the rain and I need to give the bike a bit of a tweak as the chain rubs a little bit. Going to be riding all winter so I've stocked up on lube etc to keep things pretty.

Congratulations on buying a decent bike! I assume the monkeys at Halfords built it, which is why your shifters haven't been set up properly. If I were you, I'd take the bike to your local specialist bike store and ask them to set it up properly for you, including a bike fit - it'll cost £50 or so, but it'll be the best money you'll ever spend.
 
Congratulations on buying a decent bike! I assume the monkeys at Halfords built it, which is why your shifters haven't been set up properly. If I were you, I'd take the bike to your local specialist bike store and ask them to set it up properly for you, including a bike fit - it'll cost £50 or so, but it'll be the best money you'll ever spend.

lol. That's one way to say it.

Doubt that it would cost £50 but it would sort the problems of what sounds like cable stretch.
 
lol. That's one way to say it.

Doubt that it would cost £50 but it would sort the problems of what sounds like cable stretch.

Cable stretch? On a brand new bike? No - it hasn't been adjusted properly when built. New cables will stretch a little, but you'd expect his switching to be perfect before that then get worse, not be crap to start with.

I wouldn't have said £50 if I didn't know it could be done for that would I? :confused:

Obviously some places may be more expensive, but the chap will have to call around his local stores and see.
 
Cable stretch? On a brand new bike? No - it hasn't been adjusted properly when built. New cables will stretch a little, but you'd expect his switching to be perfect before that then get worse, not be crap to start with.

I wouldn't have said £50 if I didn't know it could be done for that would I? :confused:

Obviously some places may be more expensive, but the chap will have to call around his local stores and see.

I was suggesting it could be sorted for cheaper than £50.

Basically aye it needs setup again as it won't have been set up properly to begin with. Probably still have the wee red sticker on the front mech too ;)
 
Ok I need a completely windproof undershirt. Price doesn't matter, if I have to go for Castelli/Nallini I will, but it's fairly evident that my running shirts won't cut it for much longer.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;17362156 said:
Complete front and rear gear adjustment and reindexing costs between £10 and £15 at my LBS since they charge £7.50 per 15 minutes for labour. It shouldn't cost much more than that, particularly if it is just front limit screws adjustment.

Indeed. I charge £10 for gear adjustmentss.
 
Deffo not bothering with the waterproofs now but not sure what to wear in their place though, any suggestions?

Also not thought about leaving it out in the rain whilst at work. Any issues with that?

I've adjusted it manually a little bit and it seems OK for now. I am however lucky to have a friend on my way to work who owns his own bike shop and is very good. It cost me £30 for all new cables and full setup on my old mountain bike and I'm happy to pay that for a ruralish set shop.

I've also got to get rid of the crappy reflectors off it and get something more appropriate on there. Need me some lights and a computer too.

Enjoyed my ride in to work this morning, managed to avoid the rain. Looks like it's going to be a wet ride home however and its all up hill!
 
Warm is more important than dry. If it's warm I wear lycra shorts and jersey with arm / knee / leg warmers if required.

If it's cold then i wear a long sleeve themal jersey and roubaix lined lights. I've also been known to wear a windstopper gillet on occasion.
 
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