Road Cycling Essentials

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the truth of it is that the frame, the fork, the wheels and the contact points make faaaaar more difference to the overall experience than the difference between 1 groupset and the one above or below it.

While I agree to a point, a light and responsive frame will make a much larger difference to your riding, the groupset cannot be ignored.

While it's true that they're often overlooked, the groupset is very important.

I came from a badly indexed & setup (Halfords...) mixture of Claris and Sora 2012 bike to a fresh 105 11 speed (2015) and they're worlds apart. Admittedly the frame change & wheels probably made more of a difference to my actual speeds but the 105 groupset has given me complete confidence in it's shifting (and the Claris/Sora was very hit and miss) making my riding much more enjoyable!

I finally got round to giving the bike the once over since Sunday's crash and my fiddle with the rear shifter the other day seems to have got my gears back up and running but I guess they will need replacing eventually.

However, while looking over the bike i did notice signs of rust on both the chain and the rear gears. Admittedly I haven't cleaned the bike properly since getting it last April but I think its about time i did so what I'm looking for is recommendations on a decent bike cleaning kit / tools I'll need for the job and a general routine for cleaning, greasing etc of the various parts that need it :)

Chain cleaners are overrated, they work but are a faff unless used regularly (I try to use mine weekly, but don't see it leading a long life...). Get some latex/cheapy gloves, although you may not mind getting dirty (like me) they'll give you protection from sharp cassette/chainring teeth and some protection from the cold water. Some of the spray on chain cleaners will work wonders with the rusty stuff but you're probably at the stage you'll need to get the chain off and give it a good scrub too. A chain cleaning brush can be a bit of a gimmick but if you don't have old toothbrushes/other small stuff bristled brushes they're a good investment. Paper hand towels/non-paper wet wipes are also good for rubbing a chain (and won't fall apart like tissue will).

I won't go into actual technique as there's so many videos and guides online about it (and I'm not yet convinced I'm doing things the easiest/best way!). I'll leave you with 1 last tip... Do this outside (obviously) but in an area where it won't matter (too much) if you get oil on the ground. I do this on my patio so I can clear the oil/mess up easily but have been known to do it on my front lawn where I can wash the worst of the road grime/mud away (towards pavement/road drains).

Wore my new Morvelo bibs for my ride this evening. Really comfortable with a nice pad. Went with a Large as the sizing seemed similar to Castelli and seems about right. Slightly tight at the moment, but I have no doubt they will loosen up a touch. Would recommend.

Thanks for the tip/reporting back! I had looked at them (before snapping up the DHB Flashlights on deal) so will probably look at them again in future.

Coming down a hill we get on a flatter section near the bottom, dead kangaroo in the middle of the road. Logging truck coming the other way. Roads not wide enough for the truck to miss it and we are both set to reach it at the same time...

Brakes on and slowed enough to miss most of it as the truck cleans it up with every axle on the truck and trailers... Yum.

Nice! Take any steak home with you? :p:D

Commute in this morning felt strong (rest day yesterday defo helped) but as I want to do a good ride this weekend I didn't push myself. Did a rough 100 cadence drill for the latter part as feeling strong I didn't want to do a recovery style ride! Weather was warm (10/11 degrees) and rain was forecast so I was overdressed, the rain never came so I slightly overheated at the end. Lucky with traffic I pushed one of my best average speeds I've seen - 16.5mph without any actual achievements! ;)
 
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Personally I rate chain cleaners highly. Taking the chain off and soaking it is both a lot of hassle and is often bad for chains as you don't want to completely strip the lube inside. Not to mention that (e.g.) Shimano chains don't have reusable power links in 10 speed or above (maybe lower too, haven't messed with a 9 speed chain for a while).

My best tip for keeping your geartrain and chain in a non-hideous state is to never ever go near wet lube unless you're literally riding in a monsoon every day. After a few years of dry lube I recently went back to wet lube, thinking "how bad can it be?". The answer to that question is: "**** awful".
 
I saw that, would be awesome with Dura-Ace. Interest free finance and sod the scheme? :p

I thought about that but if I'm going that way I might as well go for the Propel or something.

There are shops out there that let you top up, deffo worth a quick chat!. The one I used was really good, they let me top up an extra 650 to get my propel adv 1 :D. Some seem to charge an admin fee though so be careful!

Out of the shops I can use - Halfords, Tredz, Specialized Concept Store, Leisure Lakes and TS Bikes there's only one that have allowed top ups when I've discussed it with them before. And because it's a Halfords scheme and they seem to take a large cut for administering it, the bike shop in question want £150 on top.

I'm tempted by two bikes, a TT bike and a new 'best' bike. The local Specialized Concept store has a Shiv TT bike in for £1500 but won't let me top up. The guy in there was trying to sell me a Venge. I was very tempted but think it's a little too much money.
 
While I agree to a point, a light and responsive frame will make a much larger difference to your riding, the groupset cannot be ignored.

Yep, but that difference needs to be considered as part of the wider picture.

It's all too easy to go OOOH, HIGH GROUPSET!!!! and quietly ignore other factors.

Groupsets are very visible, they offer bragging rights. A single 105 component lets the manufacturer trumpet 105 EQUIPPED! in a tiagra market, which gets the punters flocking in, perhaps at the expense of a nicer saddle or better bars....
 
My sister lives in Australia, and was once in a car with some friends when they happened upon a dead kangaroo. The driver stopped and spent a not inconsiderable amount of time butchering it at the side of the road :eek:

Kangaroo meat is definitely not worth stopping for, and I've had my fair share. Most of it ends up in dog food in Australia so that probably sums it up. :p

Shame to waste good meat! I've picked up many rabbits and pheasants before now (usually after me hitting them) and eaten them, but I guess that's the country boy in me! I'd love a chance at a decent roo steak! :p

After a few years of dry lube I recently went back to wet lube, thinking "how bad can it be?". The answer to that question is: "**** awful".

I guess I need to try some dry lube soon then... :eek::rolleyes:

The local Specialized Concept store has a Shiv TT bike in for £1500 but won't let me top up. The guy in there was trying to sell me a Venge. I was very tempted but think it's a little too much money.

They'd let you top up to the Venge but not the Shiv? Double standards! ;) :o
 
So...payday today and time to buy some of my new bike components. Frame and wheels most likely.

However, Chinese new year means that most of my pre-sales queries are still unanswered and I'll have to wait until next week before ordering. Damn money is burning a hole in my pocket :(
 
So...payday today and time to buy some of my new bike components. Frame and wheels most likely.

However, Chinese new year means that most of my pre-sales queries are still unanswered and I'll have to wait until next week before ordering. Damn money is burning a hole in my pocket :(

get some carbon from PX sales! :p

I hope my on-one will get delivered tomorrow.. if not, well.. guess I'm stuffed ha! :o
 
get some carbon from PX sales! :p

I hope my on-one will get delivered tomorrow.. if not, well.. guess I'm stuffed ha! :o

I've checked out PX but sadly they've not got stuff I want:

* Carbon frame with disc and mudguard support.
* Carbon clinchers 23mm width, ~50mm depth, disc-compatible.

In fact, their disc wheels seem kind of ridiculous with really silly spoke setups like 16 on the front. Maybe if I was 5'0'' and weighed 50kg I'd consider them...
 
Did a casual training ride with my mate this morning before work, 60k.

Coming down a hill we get on a flatter section near the bottom, dead kangaroo in the middle of the road. Logging truck coming the other way. Roads not wide enough for the truck to miss it and we are both set to reach it at the same time...

Brakes on and slowed enough to miss most of it as the truck cleans it up with every axle on the truck and trailers... Yum.


please tell me that's NOT 60,000 MILES lol
 
Although if you haven't been cleaning/lubing regularly it's probably about time to replace the chain and rear casette anyway. Chains only really last about 1000km, give or take, even when they are well looked after. You could get a chain wear indicator to make sure.

I think I'm round about that mark distance wise although it would be a mixture of indoor and outdoor riding but I don't think my lounge will have had any adverse affects on the chain! :p

Chain cleaners are overrated, they work but are a faff unless used regularly (I try to use mine weekly, but don't see it leading a long life...). Get some latex/cheapy gloves, although you may not mind getting dirty (like me) they'll give you protection from sharp cassette/chainring teeth and some protection from the cold water. Some of the spray on chain cleaners will work wonders with the rusty stuff but you're probably at the stage you'll need to get the chain off and give it a good scrub too. A chain cleaning brush can be a bit of a gimmick but if you don't have old toothbrushes/other small stuff bristled brushes they're a good investment. Paper hand towels/non-paper wet wipes are also good for rubbing a chain (and won't fall apart like tissue will).

I won't go into actual technique as there's so many videos and guides online about it (and I'm not yet convinced I'm doing things the easiest/best way!). I'll leave you with 1 last tip... Do this outside (obviously) but in an area where it won't matter (too much) if you get oil on the ground. I do this on my patio so I can clear the oil/mess up easily but have been known to do it on my front lawn where I can wash the worst of the road grime/mud away (towards pavement/road drains).

Personally I rate chain cleaners highly. Taking the chain off and soaking it is both a lot of hassle and is often bad for chains as you don't want to completely strip the lube inside. Not to mention that (e.g.) Shimano chains don't have reusable power links in 10 speed or above (maybe lower too, haven't messed with a 9 speed chain for a while).

My best tip for keeping your geartrain and chain in a non-hideous state is to never ever go near wet lube unless you're literally riding in a monsoon every day. After a few years of dry lube I recently went back to wet lube, thinking "how bad can it be?". The answer to that question is: "**** awful".

I'll take a look into those things after work tonight and no doubt come back with daft questions when I'm not sure about something ;)
 
Although if you haven't been cleaning/lubing regularly it's probably about time to replace the chain and rear casette anyway. Chains only really last about 1000km, give or take, even when they are well looked after. You could get a chain wear indicator to make sure.

What, really, I've used chains for much longer than this that are barely stretched, usually have to change my chain twice a year, which equates to approx 5k km through all weathers and not especially well looked after.
 
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