Road Cycling Essentials

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Aren't tubulars more hassle for day to day use and better suited for racing?

Mavic Ksyrium Elites always seem to get recommended for around £400.
 
I'm by no means an expert. From what I've read (not tried tubulars...yet) it seems to be a matter of preference and what the individual needs.

Some say it's worth the additional cost and hassle (or that it isn't hassle) for daily use while others prefer clinchers for training and tubs for race day. A few say it's pointless unless you are a pro with a team car of mechanics following you about.
 
tubulars are a lot of hassle if you get a puncture.
For a start, you'll probably need a lift home. You could carry a spare tyre and some tub tape around with you, but it wont be as easy to change at the roadside as an inner tube.

You then have the problem when you get home of dealing with the punctured tub. You could buy a replacement (£50+ per tyre). Or you could try sending it to a repairer who will cut the threads open, patch the inside tube and sew it back up again (£10ish +postage there and back).

I dont see any real benefits to using them for general riding (other than not getting any pinch punctures - but if you pump your tyres up properly, you dont get that anyway). In a race you use them to save as much weight as you can and use a tyre with minimal rolling resistance and if you puncture it, you'll be swapping wheels anyway, so you only need to worry about it when you get home.
 
You could spend a bit more and get yourself Mavic Ksyrium SL for around £560 down from over £700.

I'd prefer clinchers over tubulars as I hate the hassle of putting tubs on and I commute on my bike.

I think you could pick up some Shimano RS80 C24s for that sort of money.
 
Ta guys, I think il stick with clinchers, I'm not gonna be doing any racing for a while, got a lot of weight to lose first.

I'll have a look at the wheels mentioned and I also like the look of some campagnolo wheels. Better start saving the pennies :D
 
I was very close to ordering some Dura Ace WH-7900 C24 Clinchers but after realising they wouldn't be compatible with the new 11s DA Groupset coming out later this month I wen't for some middle of the road Campagnolo Zonda's 2013 with Shimano freehub. There pretty much the same spec as Fulcrum 3's just with a different spoke pattern.

The Shimano RS80's are one step down from the WH-7900 C24 and around £300 ish also worth considering just don't like the graphics much which ironically almost look like they say "ASBO" instead of RS80, but they can always be removed :)
 
Manchester 100? Good work. My neighbour and some of his mates did the 100 mile one.

Yeah Manchester 100km. I couldn't have done the 100miler at that pace, I was ruined by the end of it!

Might be doing a 80 mile Sportive in November now so maybe do the 100 miler next year.
 
I went out out with with Beeston RC for a cycle out to Mountsorrel to get rid of the hangover. On the way back I misread a turn and bumped in to a parked car, luckily the bike didn't touch the car as I brushed it with my elbow and pushed off, much to the amusement of my mate behind.

http://app.strava.com/rides/20577354

With the winter months approaching I'm contemplating a steel framed winter bike and keeping my Defy 0 as my best bike. I've got a donor bike with all the components I need to transfer over but not sure if it'd be a straight swap or I'd end up paying more?

I'd like to have a go at building a bike and will probably help me in the long run for general bike maintenance.

I've read up about the Genisis Equilibrium and it seems to get great reviews, however I've also read that the geometry is quite aggresive. My Defy suits me with the stem flipped so I don't want something that's a back breaker. What's the best way to compare bikes from what I've got now to a new frame? Simply compare geometry diagrams?
 
I'm really glad I went for a compact, I think I could have been put off road bikes if I hadn't.

I've still got virtually no endurance in my thighs at the moment, I can probably really mash for no more than 7 seconds or so before they just pack in. I can do sustained 80km rides without taking any rest stops at an average of 24-26km/h relatively easily, I just don't seem to be able to tolerate a real push/sprint of any description. Or is that the norm?

Dunno, as I ride the same route fairly regularly I have an idea of what gear I am pushing where, so to improve try a higher gear on the back one at a time. Before you know it you'll be going quicker.

I'm struggling to break over 30-31kmh average, but I know that I need to increase my riding to do so.
 
A standard double isn't bad at all. This is one of the few places where the overall consensus is toward a compact, any other respectable cycling forum and the overwhelming majority will tell you to get a double.

I would say most people with an average level of fitness would be better suited to a double and a compact/triple for someone unfit/not cycled for years and lives in a hilly area.
 
A standard double isn't bad at all. This is one of the few places where the overall consensus is toward a compact, any other respectable cycling forum and the overwhelming majority will tell you to get a double.

I would say most people with an average level of fitness would be better suited to a double and a compact/triple for someone unfit/not cycled for years and lives in a hilly area.
uniQ, are you one of these people that ride with a 55/42 double crankset and an 11-23 cassette, and insists that 45 gear inches is low enough for anybody? :P
 
A standard double isn't bad at all. This is one of the few places where the overall consensus is toward a compact, any other respectable cycling forum and the overwhelming majority will tell you to get a double.

I would say most people with an average level of fitness would be better suited to a double and a compact/triple for someone unfit/not cycled for years and lives in a hilly area.

I live in London, have cycled for years and I much prefer a compact.

I actually don't see the point in doubles any more unless you are regularly outputting 400w for 5 or 10 minutes, which most people aren't no matter how long they have been riding.

I'm a spinner, not a masher.
 
I went for a 53/39 double because I had a compact on my hybrid and didn't really get on with it. So far 53/39 with 12-27 has been fine for the hills I've encountered including Ditchling Beacon near Brighton.
 
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uniQ, are you one of these people that ride with a 55/42 double crankset and an 11-23 cassette, and insists that 45 gear inches is low enough for anybody? :P

I have 12-25 on the Canyon. The Trek has a bottom of the range 8speed and I haven't found a hill that's beaten me yet.

[DOD]Asprilla;22692847 said:
I live in London, have cycled for years and I much prefer a compact.

I actually don't see the point in doubles any more unless you are regularly outputting 400w for 5 or 10 minutes, which most people aren't no matter how long they have been riding.

I'm a spinner, not a masher.

You can spin fine on a double. Unless your in a granny gear going no where fast at 120rpm I'm not sure what you're argument is.
 
@Kimi you probably know this but just incase; they have a UK HQ you can give them a ring on:

Tel: 020 8501 2582 ,
Hours: Monday to Friday 10am - 5pm
Or the email is: [email protected]

Yea i tried to ring them on Friday when it happened and no one answered all day, then i rang Germany and they said to ring the UK, so i tried again no answer. Sent an email this morning
 
I have 12-25 on the Canyon. The Trek has a bottom of the range 8speed and I haven't found a hill that's beaten me yet.
It seems you're in a different league of cyclist to me, then, as I've found my triple to be merely adequate for the hills I've taken on. Horses for courses, as the saying goes :)

Has anybody here successfully sold a bike on gumtree? I have a couple to sell, but I'm not sure if it's worth bothering with gumtree and if I should perhaps stick to cycling forums instead.
 
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