Road Cycling Essentials

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I generally use an 11-25 cassette on both doubles and compacts. Given that I don't spin out on either I prefer a compact as it gives me more at the low end.

If I was still doing flattish TTs and Triathlons then a double would probably be good, but I like going up hills.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;22575763 said:
If I was still doing flattish TTs and Triathlons then a double would probably be good

I have a 54/42 on my TT bike :D



...but i'm not strong enough to push a 54-11 :(
 
Three charts based on an average cadence of 80RPM that show the differences between each options.

The first compares the default OOB option on the Canyon then the second/third use the same cassette's on each and just compare the cranks.

Explains better than words can :)

Chart One Default:

chartOne.png


Chart Two 12-25's:

chartTwo.png


Chart Three 11-28's:

chartThree.png

Typo in the last chart it's an 11-28 not 11-25 :p
 
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The top ruler line of each chart shows the distance between each gear change.

The numbers on the red lines are each of cassette's available gears (12-25) on the corresponding crank (39/53).

The bottom ruler shows theoretical MPH available at each gear based on an avg cadence of 80 RPM.

explanation.png
 
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Compact = small front ring (easy to pedal but your speed is slower) plus a fairly large front ring, but not as big as a standard large ring so again you don't have as much top speed ability

The benefit of a compact is it's easier to pedal up big hills, down side is that you sacrifice top speed and there is also a bigger gap between the small front ring and the large front ring.

The rest is simply about spacing. 12-25 simply means the smallest cog on the back has 12 teeth and the largest has 25. The bigger the gap between these two numbers means you will find it harder to be in the right gear as some are simply not there. This allows for the bigger cogs to be fit. This kind of setup allows you to have a larger range of cogs, making it easier to get up hills, bare with me...

Imagine you're cycling along a road and you think, oh, I could grab a harder gear than this... if your rear gears are 11-28 for example, you could find that the next hardest gear is just too hard to pedal in because it is too much of a jump.

The following scenario is actually not possible but it will help to explain.

Imagine if the gears were like this:

1-5 and you have 5 gears
Gear No1 = 1 cog. No2 = 2 cogs. No3 = 3 cogs. No4 = 4 cogs. No5 = 5 cogs.
You will notice there is one cog difference between each gear

1-9 and you have 5 gears
Gear No1 = 1 cog. No2 = 3 cogs. No3 = 5 cogs. No4 = 7 cogs. No5 = 9 cogs.
You will notice there is two cogs difference between each gear

For 1-5 you get a smaller range of gears, but they are very close in the number of cogs they have, making it easy to be in exactly the right gear, where as for 1-9 you get a larger range of gears. This will make climbing easier as you have more cogs on the biggest gear, but the downside is that you have a much bigger gap between each gear, you will notice that cogs 2 and 4 are not available at all.

Hopefully that makes sense and I haven't confused you more :)
 
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I still dont understand heh

I've gone for compact crank and 12/25 on the Canyon i ordered

Compare against the second chart which shows the difference between the 12-25 on a Double & Compact.

Double 12-25 (80 rpm):
Slowest: 9.7mph
Fastest: 28mph

Compact 12-25 (80 rpm):
Slowest: 8.5mph
Fastest: 26mph

Cranks:
Double: 53/39
Compact: 50/34
Triple: 50/39/30
 
My humble opinion is that I would have gone with a Double & 12-25. If you're a weakish rider now then a Double with 11-28. As that would have given you an easier 'granny gear' on the 28 and a faster top end on the 11 with the sacrifice being bigger distance between gears.

As you can always upgrade the cassette at a later time to a 12-25. But changing cranks is a far more expensive affair.
 
Speedmax AL 8.
The basic one. Wasnt ready to buy it now so im a bit broke atm; the sale came on that helped force me to enter my bank details.
 
My humble opinion is that I would have gone with a Double & 12-25. If you're a weakish rider now then a Double with 11-28. As that would have given you an easier 'granny gear' on the 28 and a faster top end on the 11 with the sacrifice being bigger distance between gears.

I think the opposite.
If you get a double and you're not strong enough yet to get it up your local hill, you're screwed.
If you get a compact and you spin out at 42mph rather than 46, what difference does that really make?
 
I blame touch.

Bah, I'll swap mine for an xbox and a bag of cheetos? Need to quit cycling and go back to computer games after tonight's performance :p

Went out to our APR, got my ass kicked by a MTBer* :(

*to be fair, he was riding a road bike at the time, but still...:(
 
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