Road Cycling Essentials

ShiWarrior · 20 Jan 2013 at 12:52

uvarvu said:
At the bike show too! Bought some indicators that automatically light up when you raise your arms.

what ??

sounds funkyly cool, how on earth does this work

ShiWarrior · 20 Jan 2013 at 12:53

Shimmyhill said:
I was looking at a Ribble winter bike (i have a ribble atm) and they are pretty much limited to 23c tyres, 25 at the most and people say they rub on guards then - they are pretty much a sportive bike with guards rather than a full winter option, still nice bikes but no options for proper winter type tyres.

A CX bike will give you loads more tyre options and still be a quick bike, one with discs would be great IMO!

sounds like a good option

Thanks for your feedback everyone

George Hincapie · 20 Jan 2013 at 13:01

Shimmyhill said:
I was looking at a Ribble winter bike (i have a ribble atm) and they are pretty much limited to 23c tyres, 25 at the most and people say they rub on guards then - they are pretty much a sportive bike with guards rather than a full winter option, still nice bikes but no options for proper winter type tyres.

A CX bike will give you loads more tyre options and still be a quick bike, one with discs would be great IMO!

The Ribble isn't a Sportive frame, it's got a 13cm HT in size 56, so a racing geo.

Vonhelmet · 20 Jan 2013 at 13:48

ShiWarrior said:
what ??

sounds funkyly cool, how on earth does this work

Accelerometer, or a mercury tilt switch.

ShiWarrior · 20 Jan 2013 at 16:19

Vonhelmet said:
Accelerometer, or a mercury tilt switch.

id like to see it in action, can you actualy buy these indicators or do you have to make them yourself?

Lead_Head · 20 Jan 2013 at 17:14

Cycle or not to cycle to work tomorrow... Decisions decisions!!

grudas · 20 Jan 2013 at 17:21

Lead_Head said:
Cycle or not to cycle to work tomorrow... Decisions decisions!!

ill see what the roads look like.. if its snowy ill take my bmx if not my roadie will do!

but i went our for a 3 mile ride in this snow on pathways and even my bmx was sliding around like a bitch

uniQ · 20 Jan 2013 at 17:25

I'll be cycling, Have to walk the bike to the nearest main road though as side roads are a mess. But main roads fine then just cycle a longer route.

grudas · 20 Jan 2013 at 17:31

that was fun.

explicit4u · 20 Jan 2013 at 17:32

Not surprised it was sliding around with only one wheel on the ground

I might have to dust off my old MTB for tomorrow.

VeNT · 20 Jan 2013 at 17:42

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
really pushed on my commute today, out of the saddle for 75% of it (most of the climbs) roads clear etc and what happens
"Data sync failed" and then strava crashes out.
it can't find ANY data and it's all pooched. SO unhappy!

Shadowness · 20 Jan 2013 at 17:49

Lead_Head said:
Cycle or not to cycle to work tomorrow... Decisions decisions!!

I'll be giving it a go. The roads are just really wet at the moment, granted they might be a bit icy tomorrow morning.

helpimcrap · 20 Jan 2013 at 18:11

Out of interest (and the net showed nothing on this that was worthwhile!) how would i go about finding out my ideal cycling weight?

I.e. i weight 82kg (180 Lbs) and am 6'1". I'm average frame size I'd say - what should i get down to for weight as obviously weight affects cycling greatly. Thinking sub 80kg is my first target?

I can do 10mile TT in less than 30mins currently (well it was the only time i've done 1 which i did on boxing day) for an idea of my performance levels .

I'm completely baffled!

touch · 20 Jan 2013 at 18:28

I think the best way is to find out your bodyfat %.
It's best to stick to that as a measurement, rather than weight, but you can calculate your ideal weight from it if you want. A pro cyclist will cut down to around 8-10% bodyfat for a race.
So:
your current weight * current bodyfat percent = total weight of your fat (yuck

)
current weight - total weight of fat = weight of your 'bare' body
weight of your bare body * (100% + ideal bodyfat %) = target weight.

helpimcrap · 20 Jan 2013 at 18:39

touch said:
I think the best way is to find out your bodyfat %.
It's best to stick to that as a measurement, rather than weight, but you can calculate your ideal weight from it if you want. A pro cyclist will cut down to around 8-10% bodyfat for a race.
So:
your current weight * current bodyfat percent = total weight of your fat (yuck )
current weight - total weight of fat = weight of your 'bare' body
weight of your bare body * (100% + ideal bodyfat %) = target weight.

17% if i'm a 34" waist - 15% if i'm a 32" waist. I'm inbetween - 32" fits but 34" is more comforable.

If i'm a 30" it is 13% - so on that basis i want to be a 26" waist.

Surely that's not healthy!?

1 site says 13% for an athlete so that would be a 30" waist - achievable with training etc.

One More Solo · 20 Jan 2013 at 18:48

helpimcrap said:
Out of interest (and the net showed nothing on this that was worthwhile!) how would i go about finding out my ideal cycling weight?

I.e. i weight 82kg (180 Lbs) and am 6'1". I'm average frame size I'd say - what should i get down to for weight as obviously weight affects cycling greatly. Thinking sub 80kg is my first target?

I can do 10mile TT in less than 30mins currently (well it was the only time i've done 1 which i did on boxing day) for an idea of my performance levels .

I'm completely baffled!

It depends hugely on your build, Andy Schleck for instance is about your height but weighs around 68kg. I'm a couple of inches shorter but 68kg would be about my achievable "fighting weight" without looking like an AIDS victim.

I'd say around a 10% bodyfat percentage is a good target, any lower than that becomes difficult to maintain on a daily basis. It depends what sort of riding you want to do though really, dropping weight will help most in the hills but it won't make a massive difference if you're doing flat TTs.

helpimcrap · 20 Jan 2013 at 18:48

helpimcrap said:
17% if i'm a 34" waist - 15% if i'm a 32" waist. I'm inbetween - 32" fits but 34" is more comforable.

If i'm a 30" it is 13% - so on that basis i want to be a 26" waist.

Surely that's not healthy!?

1 site says 13% for an athlete so that would be a 30" waist - achievable with training etc.

http://www.calculator.net/body-fat-...eter=50&cwaistmeter=90&chipmeter=90&x=75&y=14

Using this which is more accurate as it asks other sizes etc and I'm currently 16%.

Another 2" off my waist and i'd be 12%. More like it!

Bigsy · 20 Jan 2013 at 19:07

Ideal cycle weight has so many factors that I just wouldn't even bother thinking about it. Just do a shed load of cycling and you'll find a comfortable weight.

Generally for the pros its absolute lowest bodyfat physically possible, but you wouldn't really want to be going to those kind of extremes.

Can't remember the pros book I was reading but his target was 3% bodyfat, which is quite frankly insane but it would put him at 6.7 watts per kg which is about what you need to win pro races.

Murf · 20 Jan 2013 at 19:12

VeNT said:
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
really pushed on my commute today, out of the saddle for 75% of it (most of the climbs) roads clear etc and what happens
"Data sync failed" and then strava crashes out.
it can't find ANY data and it's all pooched. SO unhappy!

Buy a Garmin.

With the new models just having been released I expect there are some good deals on the 500/800 kicking about. You'll get cadence\heart rate then too and much more accurate recording, plus navigation if you go for the 800.

DIABLO · 20 Jan 2013 at 20:28

Murf said:
Buy a Garmin.

With the new models just having been released I expect there are some good deals on the 500/800 kicking about. You'll get cadence\heart rate then too and much more accurate recording, plus navigation if you go for the 800.

You hear almost as many stories of them going wrong on a ride as well though.