Road Cycling

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I occasionally look for power2max but there don't seem to be many for sale and not that cheap.

Just keep using my powertap as it keeps on trucking, winter hurts it more as its foggy most mornings so gets cold & wet.
 
+1

Descending on the drops gives you far more braking power, gets you lower and more aero for speed and there is no risk of your hands bouncing off the hoods.

I really need to get into the habit of practicing this. I'm quite bad for swapping between the hoods and the drops :( Still a bit nervous about it for some reason.

I wanted to ask a general question in here, what length of cranks do people use vs their height? Especially aimed at Shamrock, as I know you're the same height as me.
 
Though saying that I did report a car that overtook another with me oncoming (and my workmate + another car) yesterday. I am so damn lucky I looked up just a split second before as I managed to take slight evasive action. I had been checking my Garmin for a brief second and looked up to see a car heading towards me at 50mph+. I think I'd have been a goner!

Got a call from Thames Valley Police this morning after sending them footage. They're going to send the owner of the car an NIP so they can nominate the driver. He said he'd probably class it as careless driving rather than dangerous driving and a good chance they'd offer an awareness course instead of a prosecution. I guess that's something at least.
 
80+ km/h
53x11
120RPM
Face at one with stem
Space hopper sized testicles

It is the only way any descent in Majorca should be tackled :p

I really need to get into the habit of practicing this. I'm quite bad for swapping between the hoods and the drops :( Still a bit nervous about it for some reason.

Try moving one hand at a time. But it is definitely something you should look at getting used to as you say. It is free speed and improved control.
 
Got a call from Thames Valley Police this morning after sending them footage. They're going to send the owner of the car an NIP so they can nominate the driver. He said he'd probably class it as careless driving rather than dangerous driving and a good chance they'd offer an awareness course instead of a prosecution. I guess that's something at least.

To be honest that's a better result than you often get when reporting such things to the police.
 
To be honest that's a better result than you often get when reporting such things to the police.

Yeah, that's the way I'm looking at it :) I think he tried to put me off the prosecution piece by saying I'd have to attend court, burn the DVD etc etc... I said that's not an issue for me. I would attend.

I asked the met about what they're doing with the incident where I was actually hit and they said they're still trying to make contact with the driver (despite half the police station recognising him).
 
Yeah, that's the way I'm looking at it :) I think he tried to put me off the prosecution piece by saying I'd have to attend court, burn the DVD etc etc... I said that's not an issue for me. I would attend.

I asked the met about what they're doing with the incident where I was actually hit and they said they're still trying to make contact with the driver (despite half the police station recognising him).

I don't see how on earth they can say that regarding when you were actually hit :rolleyes: Utterly ridiculous.
 
All the talk of drops and hoods brings me to something interesting. I'm consciously using my drops now much more than before, certainly any fast long flat/downhill with no/little corners I'll be in them. With my short-ish arms, riding in the drops I really struggle to get my elbows anywhere near 90 degrees, my knees are hitting my chest long before I'm near. I have to get out of the saddle to drop my chest/chin down to the stem which is not a problem, but it isn't a position I can maintain much cadence or hold for a long time. My flexibility is getting better and I can sprint a little like this, but not for long. The rest of the time in the drops my elbows are similar to when on the hood and closer to being locked out, when I'm tired I will ride in the drops/hoods with them locked out but only for a different position. Shorter cranks (I'm running 172.5) will be something I look at on next bike/N+1 which may help me.

Riding into some headwinds where I need more visibility/less aero (going slower - ie commuting) then I'll quite often adopt the 'Pro Belgian look' with my hands on tops of the hoods with my little fingers hooked below my shifters. I've seen many pro's do this and for me it's quite comfortable (with my increasing flexibility), especially as I tell myself the bent elbow and nearly flat forearms is more aero. As an extra position for my hands it's great at reducing numbness. A friend from work has spotted me a couple of times and has told me to get some clip on aero/tt bars, is this a good idea? I'm not a huge fan of the look of them on a road bike and I have no huge interest in TT'ing so wouldn't I just look like a 'tri harder' with them fitted to a bike I'm also commuting on?! :rolleyes:

Also, any suggestions on windproof long fingered gloves? I'm looking at something that'll keep the chill off in these 2-3 degree to 12 degree winds without going full thermal of winter. Some light rain protection is a plus, but not essential, for me the padding is more important as I suffer from numb palms/thumb pads. The Sportful Essential Windstopper (£23, the reviews comment fingers are 'short' which is not a problem for me), the Sportful Pursuit Windstopper (£26.50, next glove 'up' from the Essential with very similar features, good sale brings the price near). The Castelli Gara (£27.50, would be my next option, similar features but more waterproof but equally might be too warm).

Anyone got any of these?

I need some padding on my gloves to combat numb/sore hands. For winter I'm wearing Galibier Barrier II (great but a real winter glove, good padding), for long fingered I have Giant Horizon (great gloves, perfect padding, but mesh back means no wind protection), for summer I use Gripgrab ProGel (great padding, but their long fingered ones are stupid money for no wind protection). I also have a pair of Sealskinz Winter Glove and these are what I'm looking to replace. The pads on the sealskinz are uncomfortable (hard edges), the waterproofing is good but they're a little too warm for spring, the inner 'liner' is quite loose to the outer and they move around when worn.
 
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I wanted to ask a general question in here, what length of cranks do people use vs their height? Especially aimed at Shamrock, as I know you're the same height as me.

I'm 5'5'' and use 170mm cranks on my road bikes, I think. Track bike has 165mm but they tend to have shorter cranks and higher bottom brackets to avoid pedal strike.
 
Tuesday morning with Roady. Discussions of bike position, insane aero bar commuting thoughts and gloves....

The best thing I ever done with my bike was drop the bars as low as they would go and slightly raise my saddle. I thought I would need to be "more flexible" to ride like this but what I found was that it was just immediately more comfortable and I could put power down, spin higher RPM instantly all whilst being more aero. Pro Belgian stylee or in the drops, always!

TT/aero bars. On commuting bike. I will never speak to you again.

Sportful Essential windstopper gloves. Buy them. I ahve them in red and black, they fit perfectly and I have used them to -4 and that was the point where things were starting to get a little sketchy. But 0-9 degree's they are absolutely spot on! Mines have been right through winter, countless machine washes and they are still as new. Great gloves.
 
All the talk of drops and hoods brings me to something interesting. I'm consciously using my drops now much more than before, certainly any fast long flat/downhill with no/little corners I'll be in them. With my short-ish arms, riding in the drops I really struggle to get my elbows anywhere near 90 degrees, my knees are hitting my chest long before I'm near. I have to get out of the saddle to drop my chest/chin down to the stem which is not a problem, but it isn't a position I can maintain much cadence or hold for a long time. My flexibility is getting better and I can sprint a little like this, but not for long. The rest of the time in the drops my elbows are similar to when on the hood and closer to being locked out, when I'm tired I will ride in the drops/hoods with them locked out but only for a different position. Shorter cranks (I'm running 172.5) will be something I look at on next bike/N+1 which may help me.

Riding into some headwinds where I need more visibility/less aero (going slower - ie commuting) then I'll quite often adopt the 'Pro Belgian look' with my hands on tops of the hoods with my little fingers hooked below my shifters. I've seen many pro's do this and for me it's quite comfortable (with my increasing flexibility), especially as I tell myself the bent elbow and nearly flat forearms is more aero. A friend from work has spotted me a couple of times and has told me to get some clip on aero/tt bars, is this a good idea? I'm not a huge fan of the look of them on a road bike and I have no huge interest in TT'ing so wouldn't I just look like a 'tri harder' with them fitted to a bike I'm also commuting on?! :rolleyes:

Also, any suggestions on windproof long fingered gloves? I'm looking at something that'll keep the chill off in these 2-3 degree to 12 degree winds without going full thermal of winter. Some light rain protection is a plus, but not essential, for me the padding is more important as I suffer from numb palms/thumb pads. The Sportful Essential Windstopper (£23, the reviews comment fingers are 'short' which is not a problem for me), the Sportful Pursuit Windstopper (£26.50, next glove 'up' from the Essential with very similar features, good sale brings the price near). The Castelli Gara (£27.50, would be my next option, similar features but more waterproof but equally might be too warm).

Anyone got any of these?

I need some padding on my gloves to combat numb/sore hands. For winter I'm wearing Galibier Barrier II (great but a real winter glove, good padding), for long fingered I have Giant Horizon (great gloves, perfect padding, but mesh back means no wind protection), for summer I use Gripgrab ProGel (great padding, but their long fingered ones are stupid money for no wind protection). I also have a pair of Sealskinz Winter Glove and these are what I'm looking to replace. The pads on the sealskinz are uncomfortable (hard edges), the waterproofing is good but they're a little too warm for spring, the inner 'liner' is quite loose to the outer and they move around when worn.

Interesting that "Pro Belgian" look. Will take a better look.

I'm using the GripGrab Hurriance gloves. They are getting a bit warm now, but they are keeping the wind out. By warm, I mean my hands sweat a little bit when climbing, but it's not enough to be sticky or uncomfortable. I'm going to grab some of the ProGel ones for the summer.
 
TT bars on a commuting bike - you're only allowed to do this if you ride a flat handlebar bike :p

I'm strongly considering lengthening my stem and/or making the angle a bit more pro. Especially since doing more mobility work I have been feeling a bit overly upright in my cycling position.
 
I'm 5'5'' and use 170mm cranks on my road bikes, I think. Track bike has 165mm but they tend to have shorter cranks and higher bottom brackets to avoid pedal strike.

Ok, interesting. I'm 5'4" (163cm to be exact) and running 170mm cranks. But if I do go into the drops, my knees are very close to my chest. My saddle height feels fine. It's something I'll need to look into, as I was going to buy some Rotor cranks in prep for a Power2Max.
 
TT bars on your commute? Nope. Nope nope nope. Nooooooooooope.

Unless you can sustain Tony Martin like speeds with a 56t chainring. Otherwise, I refer you to my previous nope.
 
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