Road Cycling

[Roady]

Felt wheels are just own brand things that aren't great at all

Mavic bearings I've never really had to change many over the years of working with them, spokes/nippes seizing together or onto the rim is the problem with them!

Fulcrum are pretty decent, bigger bearings than Mavic but don't seem to last as well. Freehub body bearings can be rough quickly if you don't look after them.

The chainline on the Felt means a 56 I've set up rubs on the outer chainring as much as 4 or more cogs up the block, would be much better with an Ultegra!

Overall groupset isn't a big deal as it's the legs that matter at the end of the day, I think I'm leaning towards the Orbea as it should come up light and I've saw the frame in the carbon albeit a MyO one with a different colour scheme.

Crap pic but it's my size so I'll throw a leg over it once it's built and see how it fits.

Yeah I'm guessing the Orbea for the sort of riding you're doing is about perfect. Fast, yet a little bit lighter for the rolling terrain you generally ride pretty hard!

The look & paintwork on their current range is generally superb (kinda reminds me of some previous year Felts!), but I'm not sure if I like that celeste and matt black combo, is it last years frame design? To me the seatstays look 'odd' with that stripe/splash of colour across them which isn't central, has an odd sized black stripe on it (looks like a cable tie!), while the front rear headtube/bottom toptube colour is very angular (the two splashes of colour are different shapes and styles, not really linking them together). The MyO Team20's I googled the colour stripes/options are far better placed (rear of headtube & seattube/forks & front of downtube).

Is 15% off the retail of a new Bianchi any good or can bigger discounts be had?

As Johnny mentioned above, you really don't see many big sales on Bianchi!

 

[Jonny ///M]

It is a 2018 frame, the buyer basically had the bottom of the downtube and fork legs in black the same as the base frame colour. All OMR frames have the same basic layout, you can only change paint on those parts.

You can change the seat stay detail, under the top tube, under the downtube + fork legs. Orbea logo and other logo colour. So not fully 'custom' buy enough to make it coll for a no cost extra.

The one you linked is the older/cheaper OMP frame paint layout.

 

[Berger]

Replaced the NDS bearing on my powertap, they fail and develop lateral play in the wheel. Only took 10 minutes but then needed a little FD tweak as the chain line moved slightly.

An hour later... bloody SRAM FD. Maybe it’s my frame that isn’t so forgiving but it’s a fine line between rubbing the FD cage or not.

Have to remember to not abruptly freewheel with the new bearing in there, will chuck the chain into the spokes for the first 30-40km or so until it beds in!

 

[Jonny ///M]

Doesn't sound right? Hub bearing should only affect the wheel rotating around the axle.

For the freehub to be tight then that is to do with the bearings inside the freehub, they are only active when you pedal.

If the freehub body isn't freewheeling and is essentially one with the hub, something must be holding it there.

Sure you haven't missed a spacer between the freehub and DS bearing?

Or

Pawl/spring knocked out of place when sliding it in. Usually turning it backwards and in enough.

Or

Seal around the freehub not seated properly.

Something seems off for the chain line to be knocked out.

Was it a yaw front mech? Pain in the ass but follow the setup instructions with the use of the low screw to hold it above the big chainring then use the two lines to line it up.

 

[Berger]

It’s always done it when I’ve replaced the bearings Jonny. I’ve rebuilt it a few times now.

The rubber seals and original grease give a little bit of friction which until it is overcome and bedded in will cause the chain to go slack when you freewheel, but it will freewheel.

Yeah it’s a yaw front mech. Just awkward to do.

 

[Jonny ///M]

It’s always done it when I’ve replaced the bearings Jonny. I’ve rebuilt it a few times now.

The rubber seals and original grease give a little bit of friction which until it is overcome and bedded in will cause the chain to go slack when you freewheel, but it will freewheel.

Yeah it’s a yaw front mech. Just awkward to do.

All good if it's what usually happens! Haven't felt it before myself.

The newest shimano 11 speed mechs are also a footery

 

[Berger]

Think my powertap is dead. I used it in Feb and it calibrated but then stopped working so I thought the batteries were flat.

Changed them but it does exactly the same thing, like it goes to sleep straight away even though it’s spinning.

And looks like that Endura bearing I used wasn’t fit for purpose! I have been using SKF in Australia as they were all I could get in town. Bought an endura as it was cheap online...

70km in today, felt hard going and got a bit of creaking. I didn’t smack any holes hard but the usual UK rough stuff (23mm tyre at 100psi) Looked okay, I started to feel a bit flat and hard going, but not done more than 2 hours this year so expected this.

Stopped after 90 as I could feel something through the pedals, the wheel has developed spectacular play, been rubbing the brake pad and the tyre has been touching the frame a bit too and has a bulge!

Whole bike needs a wash & strip down now to assess the damage.

Maybe this is a sign to get that Checkpoint I’ve been bashing on about...

 

[Bear]

My rear wheel (Zipp 404) has developed some side to side play so it rubs on the brakes every now and then when putting some power through the cranks so guess it’s the bearings. The bearings have lasted for about 4000miles, is that normal? Seems a bit low to me, oddly it still spins well and I’ve checked the bearing preload so it isn’t that. Ordered a set of Endura 6903 so hopefully they are ok judging by Berger’s experience above.

 

[Berger]

Update: axle snapped in two... bearings are OK

Explains why it would calibrate but wouldn’t work... crack running side to side on the axle/torque tube, then split in half right in the centre of the axle.

 

[Jonny ///M]

We fit Endura bearings that they seem to be decent!

If you strip and clean them up after every wet ride you'll have them last ages, if not then suck up the price of the bearings every now and again.

£250 repair to get that torque tube fixed, going to bother?

 

[Berger]

We fit Endura bearings that they seem to be decent!

If you strip and clean them up after every wet ride you'll have them last ages, if not then suck up the price of the bearings every now and again.

£250 repair to get that torque tube fixed, going to bother?

Not sure, any rear wheel worth having is about £250 (I’ve just been looking, 6800 ultegra was my go to but they are discontinued) so I might do... who is that through?

Does it need the wheel fully stripping down, it’s a Hplusson rim with sapim spokes iirc hand built.

 

[Jonny ///M]

It goes back to the distributor, Paligap in Bristol, where they have a specific powertap guy. Send it as the whole wheel for the repair.

RS500-TL is the replacement for Ultegra.

 

[Berger]

http://23mm.co.uk/ Any good? They recommend against the Hplusson rim actually as QC isn’t so good!

 

[BennyC]

My rear wheel (Zipp 404) has developed some side to side play so it rubs on the brakes every now and then when putting some power through the cranks so guess it’s the bearings. The bearings have lasted for about 4000miles, is that normal? Seems a bit low to me, oddly it still spins well and I’ve checked the bearing preload so it isn’t that. Ordered a set of Endura 6903 so hopefully they are ok judging by Berger’s experience above.

Had/have the same on my Aelous D5's, had them serviced & tensioned and all was fine, albeit the nipples were at the end of their threads so do need a rebuild if I want any more tension in them.

I run my rear break caliper a little wider than the front and for the most part it's fine.

How often (generally) should a wheelset be serviced. I know the conditions, surfaces ridden and manufacturer recommendations will play a large part but if we presume mostly dry conditions, good/fair surfaces and a mid-range/premium wheelset. Ta.

 

[Jonny ///M]

http://23mm.co.uk/ Any good? They recommend against the Hplusson rim actually as QC isn’t so good!

Haven't heard of them and most areas have a good local builder, we have two in the region that get a good rep.

Had/have the same on my Aelous D5's, had them serviced & tensioned and all was fine, albeit the nipples were at the end of their threads so do need a rebuild if I want any more tension in them.

I run my rear break caliper a little wider than the front and for the most part it's fine.

How often (generally) should a wheelset be serviced. I know the conditions, surfaces ridden and manufacturer recommendations will play a large part but if we presume mostly dry conditions, good/fair surfaces and a mid-range/premium wheelset. Ta.

Depends what hub it is, a loose ball bearing then you are better getting to it before it is rough but a cartridge bearing like a Fulcrum you can pretty much leave it until the bearings go rough or have play before chainging them out.

 

[Berger]

I imagine Paul Hewitt in Leyland can build a wheel.

My preference would be a White Industries T11 in black to match the front hub I already have.

Cheapest I can find is £290 though for the hub (getting shafted in the UK on price), gonna make for a £400+ wheel, but it is a sweet wheel. Maybe bump up the spokes to 28 to increase the strength too.

The white industries importer isn’t too far away in Cheshire, maybe I could call them & ask.

 

[Indigo]

First long ride in a while yesterday. 66 miles, fairly flat with 2000ft of elevation. Took two friends out for a 40 mile loop who are triathlon training with me.

Headed towards Dunham Massey / Tatton Park / Ashley / Hale. Really good weather for it too thankfully .

Feel like today is going to be one of those days where I can't stop eating!!!

 

[BennyC]

Depends what hub it is, a loose ball bearing then you are better getting to it before it is rough but a cartridge bearing like a Fulcrum you can pretty much leave it until the bearings go rough or have play before chainging them out.

Thanks, DT240's so pretty sure it's cartridge. Feel fine though a weekend on the cobbles at the end of the month might see me giving them a check over before 9 days in Denia in April

@Roady my HT900e's finally turned up, bit of a stock delay. Will report this week. Probably Thursday before I do anything punchy on the turbo.

 

[Roady]

The one you linked is the older/cheaper OMP frame paint layout.

Ah ooops, I did have a play around with the MyO as well but couldn't see that combination.

Good fun to play around with but then quite limited in areas of colour you can change which is a bit of a shame.

Replaced the NDS bearing on my powertap, they fail and develop lateral play in the wheel.

Update: axle snapped in two... bearings are OK

Explains why it would calibrate but wouldn’t work... crack running side to side on the axle/torque tube, then split in half right in the centre of the axle.

Damn! At least the rest of it is ok and it didn't throw you off or chuck the RD into the wheel!

Expensive repair but they're otherwise very solid and dependable. Have seen various G3 used wheels selling for £400-500 recently (was even considering picking one up for the turbo bike before I changed to direct drive).

Whole new G3 hub here for £375.

My rear wheel (Zipp 404) has developed some side to side play so it rubs on the brakes every now and then when putting some power through the cranks so guess it’s the bearings. The bearings have lasted for about 4000miles, is that normal? Seems a bit low to me, oddly it still spins well and I’ve checked the bearing preload so it isn’t that. Ordered a set of Endura 6903 so hopefully they are ok judging by Berger’s experience above.

Very low mileage, but consider Zipp hubs are not known for their wet weather protection, so if you're regularly riding in bad weather it's better to take some steps to protect them from water ingress. I protected the 77/177D hubs on my 30 course by coating the insides of the endcaps & bearings with a layer of waterproof grease.

Thanks, DT240's so pretty sure it's cartridge. Feel fine though a weekend on the cobbles at the end of the month might see me giving them a check over before 9 days in Denia in April

@Roady my HT900e's finally turned up, bit of a stock delay. Will report this week. Probably Thursday before I do anything punchy on the turbo.

Cool, let me know! Warmer week this week anyway so you'll need the airflow!

DT240's are cartridge. Think they always have been!

UPDATE: Hoppo about to tick over 500 miles, around 24 hours in, so his expected 2500 miles in 6 days is certainly achievable (providing he can keep the pacing up). Machine!

 

[Roady]

Had a bit of a surprise this weekend, athleteshop where doing the Elite Direto for £470 which was an incredible deal (now £530). When I bought my Flux for £570 I couldn't find/get a Direto for much below £700! Otherwise I'd have bought one - the Direto is superior to the Flux in various different ways (more accurate and measures direct force - more like a power meter does).

Seems like there is quite a long leadtime and athleteshop have been known before to let people over-order without also passing the orders onto their suppliers for even longer leadtimes (5-6 months!).

I was considering seeing if I could return my Flux to CRC and get the Direto. But not sure I want to take the risk. If they're holding around those prices we should see others dropping prices? Maybe see if CRC/Wiggle/etc will pricematch...