Rust prevention.....
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Caporegime
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That's because those spray cans are rubbish. You need to either use an engine enamel type paint or a proper 2K paint through a compressor.
It wasn't a spray can, it was painted on by brush.
yes interesting - especially for spraying it inside chassis members which I'd liked to target -
but not having a compressor I'd have to use the aerosols, not sure what the entry price is for lower powered paint only compressor £100 ?
after reading about POR weaknesses of not adhering to any existing paint, and being very sensitive to type of overcoat used,
I think one of my earlier failures with kurust equivalent, frameto, failed because the zinc based primer on top may have dissolved the frameto.
I can see compressors for painting online starting at around £160. You get what you pay for but if its just for Lanolin application then it should be sufficient as you don't need perfect application of the product.
In that video he said you can get a black version which is the same liquid but with graphite added.
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I have an e-tech kit for my Q5. Dubious now whether to use it although the front callipers are aluminium so may be ok.
Anyone have a recommendation for rusty brake callipers where they don't need to be removed from the vehicle? (I know I should really remove and get them done properly)
Caporegime
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I used a kit from them when I rebuilt a set of calipers a year or so ago. It was engine enamel though and I cooked them in the oven before refitting them to the car. Still looking good a year or so later.
The easiest way I found of removing rust from brake calipers is by using Bilt Hamber Deox C. These are 20+yr old mx5 calipers that were submerged in a solution of it. The calipers can go in complete as the solution doesn't affect any of the seals or brake hose
I've heard the same and recently ordered some for that very purpose, not actually tried it yet but the results look pretty good to me
And it's environmentally friendly too so no hassle to dispose of it, seems win-win...I believe they reccommend painting/coating them pretty soon after removal as it leaves little/no protection?
I saw that bit ... he didn't seem to say, but presumably, graphite makes it a bit more viscous/resilient
you masked the bores ? seems risky without that as google also suggests - a gel type product sounds easier to contain in that respect.
Both are safe on rubber, but you don't want the Deox-C going into the piston bores, If you get the solution in the bore you would need to dismantle to dry, if there's any doubt that you can’t keep it dry dismantle the assembly first, block the bore then soak – this is our recommended method.
Good to know - thanks.I used a kit from them when I rebuilt a set of calipers a year or so ago. It was engine enamel though and I cooked them in the oven before refitting them to the car. Still looking good a year or so later.
I have some BH products. DEOX gel and some other barrier stuff. These callipers look great for their age.The easiest way I found of removing rust from brake calipers is by using Bilt Hamber Deox C. These are 20+yr old mx5 calipers that were submerged in a solution of it. The calipers can go in complete as the solution doesn't affect any of the seals or brake hose
My S3 is a 2002 and I did my front callipers about 6 years ago with black Hammerite. Strangely they are still pretty good even though its not the ideal product.
This kit can be use to spray without a compressor and internally.
It seems the products dry out over time so need re-applying but they are easy to apply so its a trade off.
I’ve used most of these products inc waxoyl, dinitrol, acf50, bilt hamber, buzzweld and por15. Waxoyl is old tech and rubbish. Dinitrol is a good system as is bilt hamber. Both of these are oily coatings of differing thicknesses. They cannot be over coated with paint and you need to keep them topped up every couple of years as they wear either mechanically or via road spray eventually. Bilt hamber also does a clear version which is nice if your protecting an existing surface you don’t want black gunk over. These products require the surface steam cleaned and degreased if possible but they do work ok cleanish surfaces. I’d go for these if your doing it diy on your back.
Por15 and some of the buzzweld products are paints! Completely different animal and you need excellent prep which is very very difficult to do diy underneath a vehicle. I used them on new components only.
Acf50 is ok for components like hinges and visible stuff. It’s very thin, runs easily and can stain. In these areas I prefer the clear bilt hamber spray.
It’s all horses for courses and non of the above are rust converters. If you want one of these I’d recommend dinitrol rc900 which is very good. Some of the coatings above atually like a bit of rust to adhere well…
Por15 and some of the buzzweld products are paints! Completely different animal and you need excellent prep which is very very difficult to do diy underneath a vehicle. I used them on new components only.
Acf50 is ok for components like hinges and visible stuff. It’s very thin, runs easily and can stain. In these areas I prefer the clear bilt hamber spray.
It’s all horses for courses and non of the above are rust converters. If you want one of these I’d recommend dinitrol rc900 which is very good. Some of the coatings above atually like a bit of rust to adhere well…
Caporegime
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Got a link to the clear built hamber stuff? I was originally going to do mine with raptor clear but would like to see what this stuff is about. I plan to paint the underside first with base & clear. Then top it off with a clear protection.
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Here you go https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-uc/