Sealant Round Windows

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Jokester

Jokester

Don
Joined
7 Aug 2003
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Location
Aberdeenshire
With the recent high winds I've decided to deal with a problem I've had for the past year or so. I live in a relatively new build flat and as the building has settled and dried out my flat has sunk by about 8-10mm in relation to the outer walls resulting in the original sealant tearing:-

sealant.jpg


There's a noticeable draft when it's cold and windy so I'm looking to reseal them again. I recently did my shower tiles so I'm guessing it's a similar set up to that?

What sort of sealant do I need?

Anyother tips?
 
Remove the old sealant with a pallet knife. Then apply external white silicone sealant, or if internally, white decorators caulk.

Apply, smooth off, light cigar and admire
 
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Also try a drop of wd-40 on the bits left over when your done with the knife. This softens the sealant a bit. And makes it a bit easier to rub off.
 
Dont use decorators calk. Around the window you need good silicone sealant. It will be much better at coping with moisture etc.
 
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Not half done the job, heating came on for a couple of hours this morning and hasn't been back on since. Frost outside hasn't lifted all day!
 
What sealant did you use?

It's a bit late now but you want Low modulus neutral cure for best results. I use Soudal thick white as it tools up well or Dow corning 796. Most silicones are rated for use in +5oc, but I've never had a problem using in freezing conditions.

If you used Acetoxy cure, it should be fine, but just keep your eye on it coming away from the frame.
 
Hold fire...

Relatively new flat... That should be covered under the guarantee. Builder should fix that FOC I believe.


EDIT**
Maybe not. :rolleyes:

What is the builder not liable for?

Wear and tear or deterioration caused by neglect or failure to carry out maintenance
Dampness, condensation or shrinkage not caused by a defect
Click to expand...
 
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Yeah, they made a clear point when I did the inspection that shrinkage was expected over the first 2 years and that I would then need to reseal, they actually did the outside door to the flat about a year ago off their own bat.
 
Mark A said:
What sealant did you use?

It's a bit late now but you want Low modulus neutral cure for best results. I use Soudal thick white as it tools up well or Dow corning 796. Most silicones are rated for use in +5oc, but I've never had a problem using in freezing conditions.

If you used Acetoxy cure, it should be fine, but just keep your eye on it coming away from the frame.
Click to expand...
I just used some Unibond Decorators Filler, it's the internal seal between the window frame (mounted in the external brick wall) and the internal plasterboard walls/wooden window sill.
 
When scraping excess off, to get a nice finish, get hold of some lollypop sticks and a pot of water. Dip stick end in said water then scrape. You will get a feel for how long a run you can do before needing to remove sealent from stick and dip into water again.

Lollypop sticks are great because of the rounded ends :) you put it as close as it will go, then scrape.


oic, you already done it :p ah well, still a handy tip :D
 
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Decorators filler is not the right stuff to use. Moisture will make it bad. Proper Silicone sealant is the stuff to use.
 
Bit late but

Dig out all old silicone, even sand back, you don't want to be sticking new silicone on old, use some cheap stuff to fill the external quite back from finish then Dow cornins in whatever colour you want over the top and dress with a lolly pop stick in water and fairy liquid or your finger and spit.

Inside tape up window then expanding foam in the gap, let that go off then chop back and caulk, you can then paint on the caulk you can't paint on silicone
 
If it needs to be moisture resistant, you have a problem, you should be water proof by the start of the cavity in modern construction
 
koolpc said:
Except that caulk is not resistant to moisture. Especially around windows.
Click to expand...

The windows should be fully sealed externally, so no moisture should be around the windows.

Silicone is applied to the perimeter, gaps should be no more than 5mm if brickwork level and should be pumped into the cavity reaching at least 5mm deep. Done correctly it will keep drafts and moisture out, and also keep you brick wall cavity dry preventing damp.
 
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