Show your Bonsai

4 months on, both my trees are still alive. :D

So I bought a few more.


Although the maple hasn't really grown that much, I am not sure what i am doing wrong with it, it seems to just frozen in growth but not dying as such. The Buddhist pine is doing fine, noticeable more vigour and more leaves now.

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Is that Chinese elm in the blue rectangular pot? Where did you get it and how much? I'm considering this one.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chinese-Bo...68910&s=gateway&sprefix=bonsai,aps,157&sr=8-5
 

The Chinese elm is in the small oval pot.

The blue rectangular pot is a Ficus. The ficus is probably the easiest plant to take care of and can live happily by a window indoors, Chinese elm needs more sun and it should be in a full south facing window if possible. Trees like Maple is kept outside 99% of the time unless it snows heavily or raining for days straight to stop overwatering.

I got both the Elm and Ficus from a local garden centre.

I have a Dawn Redwood forest (5 trees) coming on Wednesday, i am total addicted.
 
The Chinese elm is in the small oval pot.

The blue rectangular pot is a Ficus. The ficus is probably the easiest plant to take care of and can live happily by a window indoors, Chinese elm needs more sun and it should be in a full south facing window if possible. Trees like Maple is kept outside 99% of the time unless it snows heavily or raining for days straight to stop overwatering.

I got both the Elm and Ficus from a local garden centre.

I have a Dawn Redwood forest (5 trees) coming on Wednesday, i am total addicted.

I like the look of the trunk on that ficus, the white grainy bits, and the pot is nice. But since I have an amazon gift token, I'll probably still opt for the elm. I've got good daylight in my kitchen, so hopefully it'll be enough. I'm betting the ficus cost more than £25?

I was reading an amazon review. A person who just received the same chinese elm said she mixes 5ml of feed with 1 litre water in a spray bottle and uses some of it to feed the elm the same day once a week, and keeps a separate spray bottle of just water to moisten the top soil just when it looks dry. Is that about all I'd need to do?
 
I like the look of the trunk on that ficus, the white grainy bits, and the pot is nice. But since I have an amazon gift token, I'll probably still opt for the elm. I've got good daylight in my kitchen, so hopefully it'll be enough. I'm betting the ficus cost more than £25?

I was reading an amazon review. A person who just received the same chinese elm said she mixes 5ml of feed with 1 litre water in a spray bottle and uses some of it to feed the elm the same day once a week, and keeps a separate spray bottle of just water to moisten the top soil just when it looks dry. Is that about all I'd need to do?

Chinees elm is prone to root rot if watered too much, there is a hole at the bottom of the pot (should be), I often judge how wet it is by poking my finger from underneath (Ha!).

In terms of feed, I bought something call Naruko, a japanese feed. It's solid like a pellet that you would a dozen or so on top every 4 weeks or so. The idea is that when you feed liquid feed, it just flushes through and the next watering its all gone. So a solid feed it gets a little bit every time you water and it is more consistent.

There are a few rules though, you should not feed if the tree is sick (falling off leaves, brown etc), as it is a sign of water/air balance off. So you need to fix that first before feeding, otherwise the tree will take in fertiliser instead of water which it needs most. A plant needs water + sunlight to make food through photosynthesis, fertiliser is not in the equation. Once the tree is healthy then you fertilise and only really in growing season.

In terms of feed, there are 3 elements in it, NPK, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) or NPK for short.

Nitrogen (N) – nitrogen is largely responsible for the growth of leaves on the plant.
Phosphorus (P) – Phosphorus is largely responsible for root growth and flower and fruit development.
(K) – Potassium is a nutrient that helps the overall functions of the plant perform correctly.

Naruko is a balance, 5,5,5 which is good for an evergreen plant like a Ficus or Elm. Normally you put in something weighted towards P for the autumn for fruit and heavier in N for spring and summer. But it's a tricky balance and I am not that good at it so Naruko seems a good way to go, plus I won't forget as its once every 4 weeks or so that you need to do it. It does look a bit weird after a week since it gets a little mouldy as it breaks down.
 
Thanks Raymond for the info. I think you just put me off though, all sounds a bit difficult. :p


edit: Actually, rereading what you said, I take back my defeatist attitude. It's probably not as difficult as I thought.
 
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That's fine.

Elms is probably the easier tree to look after, water enough so the soil is moist, perhaps every other day, put water in until you see it seep out at the bottom. Because only the tips of the roots actually takes in water, the top bits, the thicker roots are for stability in the soil. So if you only water the top, the bottom is dry and it will not get enough water. Some people soak the whole pot in some water above the soil line for about 15seconds until all the air bubbles goes and take it out. You can do that but in nature rain doesn't work that way so normal watering is fine as long as you water to the bottom.

In terms of feed, you probably don't need to feed it as much or at all in the winter. let it rest a little during the colder season.

Oh, don't put it by a radiator, the heat is not good for it, nor is the drier humidity. It might be too dry in those positions. If you have a conservatory, it would be perfect, like a green house.
 
That gadget looks awesome, I'll definitely get it once I've decided if I'm getting the tree.

I think this is the time of the year that any tree I buy will shed leaves.
About radiators, it's getting colder now as we hit autumn and then winter, so my radiators are going to be on more, mostly in the evenings. I plan to keep the tree in my kitchen. It's quite a large kitchen and I could keep it on the window ledge which is over 12 foot away from my radiator. I wanted to place it in the middle of my kitchen table, but that's right next to a radiator. Perhaps I could move it to the table in Spring. I don't have a conservatory or greenhouse, but I've got my own garden. I could put it on the outside kitchen window ledge, but would need to be careful of too much rain and oversoaking it, and perhaps temperatures getting too cold?

To be honest though, I think the tree would get good light, my kitchen has lots of large windows all around, so it should probably do quite well.
 
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That gadget looks awesome, I'll definitely get it once I've decided if I'm getting the tree.

I think this is the time of the year that any tree I buy will shed leaves.
About radiators, it's getting colder now as we hit autumn and then winter, so my radiators are going to be on more, mostly in the evenings. I plan to keep the tree in my kitchen. It's quite a large kitchen and I could keep it on the window ledge which is quite far away from my radiator. I wanted to place it in the middle of my kitchen table, but that's right next to a radiator. Perhaps I could move it to the table in Spring. I don't have a conservatory or greenhouse, but I've got my own garden. I could put it on the outside kitchen window ledge, but would need to be careful of too much rain and oversoaking it, and perhaps temperatures getting too cold?

This below depends on the specific tree, but in general it applies to all tree….it is that all trees needs to be outside, i mean how many trees do you see lives inside in nature?

The reason you bring them inside is because the species of tree you have comes from a warmer climate, and in those countries they don't have the seasons so they can live "indoors". Things like a Cacti, or Ficus or any tropical trees. Any trees that naturally sheds their leaves should be allowed to do so, and should be left outside. When a tree loses its leaves over winter, it goes dormant, it is conserving energy and its fine. It a way it needs the "rest". If you put a tree that sheds through its leaves to places like Florida where it doesn't, it will grow great for a few years but it will slowly loses vigour and gets weaker because it isn't getting that rest time. So when it sheds its leaves, leave it outside, the only protection it needs is to stop the pot freezing solid and thus damage the roots. The smaller the pot, the more protection it needs, you can put it in the shed all winter if you like, that is generally enough to protect it. Don't be tempted to bring it in your house, it will trick it thinking it is spring and starts growing too early and not getting that rest.

Anyway….that's I know is a lot of info, in general, I would leave most bonsai trees outside all year round in the UK, when it gets to December, if they are the kind that loses its leaves, think about either put a plastic sheet over it when it gets too cold, or put it in the shed. The cold also is good for killing some bacteria and fungus too, so it's not all bad.

I have an Elm, its tiny, it will no doubt freeze really fast in the winter so I think i will keep mine on the kitchen window.

This is basically a Bonsai Lecture, 2hrs long, it explains a lot in terms of tree/biology/theory. if you are going to watch just a bit of it, the first 15mins is important in the basics.

 
I hear what you're saying Raymond and you're right. And tbh, if it's kept outside then it's not really for me. Only because I want something that I can see and enjoy everyday when I go into my kitchen, that is quick and easy to water when it needs it and which doesn't stand outdoors and attract aphids and ants.

I'm now changing my consideration to a Ficus like yours because apparently it's the best one to have for indoors. Which, reading back at your first reply to me, is basically what you told me in the first place! :p And also, yours looks great. Can't find one in my price range on Amazon though. I want one with a blue pot and tray like yours. Herons has this one though and I can add their care kit to it which includes tray, pebbles, scissors and feed. I'd ask them to make the feed the one you use.
I also wouldn't mind having the green moss like you have on your pine tree, kind of looks similar to grass.

https://www.herons.co.uk/12986-Ficus-Bonsai-Small-Broom-Style


"The easiest of all the Indoor varieties is the Ficus. It is the most trouble free of all the Indoor varieties. It can stand normal living room conditions. All the other indoor varieties such as the Chinese Elm, Pistacia, Myrtles etc, need a cool room and should preferably be kept outdoors in the Summer. If you have a conservatory, this is a good environment for your indoor bonsai in Winter, but in Summer - the conservatory will be too warm.

The Ficus is by far the easiest of all the Indoor species for bonsai and it is a true Tropical so doesn't mind a slightly warmer room than some other bonsai.

They need a minimum temperature of about 10°C or 50°F during the Winter and kept just moist. They are vigorous growers and can stand relatively low light levels when grown indoors.
"

https://www.herons.co.uk/Indoor-Bonsai-Trees/Ficus-Bonsai-Trees/
 
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@Merlin5

I wholly recommend a ficus, they can live in humid rooms like a bathroom, actually they love it as the humidity makes them grow roots from the branches like in the wild. It's kinda cool. My only negative is their leaves are larger than a elm so it's less "cute". But you can prune them back and the next wave should be smaller, careful not to overdo it. There is a technique call Trim and Grow. It is exactly as it sounds, or it should be worded Grow then Trim. The idea is you let the tree grow and grow, then you cut it back to the shape of a bonsai. When it grows, it gains vigour, it gets stronger, then you can cut it back to a shape that you want. If you constantly cutting back to a shape that you want, it will just get weaker and weaker. The reason is that it takes energy to grow a leaf. Think of the tree as a battery and every time it grows a leaf it uses say 1% of that battery, it will take time for that leaf to do its work with photosynthesis before the tree recoup the energy used to grow that leaf. As the tree grows bigger and stronger, its reserves get larger. So let it grow and grow, stores more energy then cut it back knowing it has enough in reserve to grow back.

It's a simple theory in practice but the urge to constantly cutting the tree back to make it look cute is strong, and not good for the tree. A lot of these bonsai people I see let the tree grow for 12 months or 18 months and not touch it.
 
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Yeah Raymond, I agree with the grow and trim you talked about. In fact, I'd watched a couple of pruning videos which talk about 'ramifying' which means cutting back a branch where there's wood to help it develop more branches and help train branches in different directions. This video has some pretty helpful tips.

https://youtu.be/Nsvc2Ll1X2A
 
Yeah Raymond, I agree with the grow and trim you talked about. In fact, I'd watched a couple of pruning videos which talk about 'ramifying' which means cutting back a branch where there's wood to help it develop more branches and help train branches in different directions. This video has some pretty helpful tips.

https://youtu.be/Nsvc2Ll1X2A

I've seen that one, its a good simple video and I didn't know about letting it grow until the branch harden before cutting (so that it splits) until I saw that one, but it makes sense. Different trees have different ways of ramification though so need to read up on each before start cutting.
 
I've seen that one, its a good simple video and I didn't know about letting it grow until the branch harden before cutting (so that it splits) until I saw that one, but it makes sense. Different trees have different ways of ramification though so need to read up on each before start cutting.

Good point. Let me know if you find out anything specific to ramification for a Ficus 'Retusa' which I believe is the one you have and is the one I'm considering. I liked the tip he made at 5:30 about cutting a little in front of the leaf to help the leaf bud at a sort of right angle direction otherwise it might just grow straight ahead and defeat the purpose of the cut.
 
Good point. Let me know if you find out anything specific to ramification for a Ficus 'Retusa' which I believe is the one you have and is the one I'm considering. I liked the tip he made at 5:30 about cutting a little in front of the leaf to help the leaf bud at a sort of right angle direction otherwise it might just grow straight ahead and defeat the purpose of the cut.

I wrote something but then realised i will be just repeating youtube videos so...i think i watched them all lol

One thing I noticed with that Peter Chan guy from Heron Bonsai, it sems regardless of the tree he is demostrating in his video, he cuts the tree the same way, almost in a careless manner and looks like he is just hacking it with a scissors...i guess you don't have to be THAT careful!

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But if you want to know how strong a Ficus is to grow back. This guy literally turns his bare, and it grows back stronger.

 
I'll watch that video, looks interesting.

That Peter Chan has got over 30 years experience and 20 gold medals from Royal flower shows so his fast hacking might just be something that amateurs like us need to do quite thoughtfully and slowly! :p On the other hand, yeah, maybe we don't need to be too careful.
 
I'll watch that video, looks interesting.

That Peter Chan has got over 30 years experience and 20 gold medals from Royal flower shows so his fast hacking might just be something that amateurs like us need to do quite thoughtfully and slowly! :p On the other hand, yeah, maybe we don't need to be too careful.

I have watched a LOT of videos on the subject in the past 5 months and I notice that some of the real experts have no fear in taking large chunks off a tree. They would take a massive branch off, really thick roots, with proper hack swords at times. It's all in the name of shaping the tree to an idea, its more than keeping it healthy.
 
I've got some catching up to do then, I've only watched half a dozen videos so far.

You've probably seen this one?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LlGO4fcQ0tY

He also removes a thick branch.

not seen that one but Peter Chan literally used a hacksword, a clipper isn’t big enough. I think the key is if the tree is healthy, you can just shape it without fear...relatively speaking.
 
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