Small problem with my water cooled system - Swiftech Corrosion Issues!

MikeTimbers · 5 Jul 2008 at 23:28

WJA96 said:
I'm not - but it's the summer, business is a bit slack and I need something to do to keep me busy. Spending £1000 on a metallurgy report to prove Swiftech haven't controlled their suppliers properly sounds as good a way to w[h]ile away an evening as any....

Interesting. It sounds as if you've already decided that Swiftech are merely negligent rather than duplicitous. Many might think otherwise. Allegedly.

WJA96 · 6 Jul 2008 at 10:40

MikeTimbers said:
Interesting. It sounds as if you've already decided that Swiftech are merely negligent rather than duplicitous. Many might think otherwise. Allegedly.

I haven't decided anything (I hope) but it's far nicer to believe that the guy believes he's doing the right thing, rather than try and make him out to be something less appealling. Besides, you have to be careful what you say to make sure the thread doesn't get deleted.

I am very close to making an appeal for corroded Aluminium top owners to come forward in a class action type suit, but my US lawyer obviously doesn't work over a weekend, and he's not told me what to say yet.

MikeTimbers · 6 Jul 2008 at 11:46

It does seem hard to see how such a well-respected company could ignore so many warnings. The warning around HydrX seems way too low-key to be able to claim immunity and the anodization seems to be in name only.

I have just acquired from auction an older Swiftech kit with an MCW5000 block and it's still a good performer and made entirely from copper. It probably cost a lot to make but at least it can't corrode.

WJA96 · 6 Jul 2008 at 11:48

MikeTimbers said:
the anodization seems to be in name only/QUOTE]

As far as I know they're not actually anodised - more like soaked in dye. That gives no protection whatsoever.

WJA96 · 6 Jul 2008 at 11:49

MikeTimbers said:
The warning around HydrX seems way too low-key to be able to claim immunity

If you still have your packaging, does it have a country of origin on it?

MikeTimbers · 6 Jul 2008 at 12:00

It clearly says on two sides:

Made in the USA

Step 6 of the instructions:

Connect the tubing to the waterblock hose-barbs. Use the hose-clamps to secure the tubing. Use of distilled water is mandatory. Swiftech's HydrX is recommended (against corrosion and algae).

WJA96 · 6 Jul 2008 at 13:26

MikeTimbers said:
It clearly says on two sides:

Made in the USA

That's really interesting because mine has no country of origin markings at all. I'm starting to wonder if mine's a fake or something.

MikeTimbers · 6 Jul 2008 at 14:19

Real or not, I still got corrosion too.

Mine came in an typical Swiftech cube box with a barcode of 877790000349. I believe they now come in a retail blister pack.

Bought from OCUK September 07

WJA96 · 6 Jul 2008 at 15:44

Yeah - mine is in the blister pack ansd now no country of origin. Do you think they might have relocated production somewhere cheaper? I think it's a definite possibility.

MikeTimbers · 6 Jul 2008 at 22:23

Get a good design, get it reviewed and endorsed by some known water-coolers, then cut costs by sub-contracting the build to somewhere cheaper and don't bother to check any of the output? That would never happen! Don't be ridiculous!

Cob · 6 Jul 2008 at 22:42

Personally I think they rushed it because the Fuzion was killing them.

WJA96 · 9 Jul 2008 at 23:11

Made in China.

marscay · 11 Jul 2008 at 09:16

WJA96 said:

talk about turning me off the cereal this morning - lmao that's terrible.

glad you're getting some good support out of it at least.

WJA96 · 11 Jul 2008 at 10:09

marscay said:
glad you're getting some good support out of it at least.

Yeah - Swiftech's support is phenomenal. It probably has to be because their products aren't manufactured to specification.

You'll notice no-one from Swiftech has come on and said "Oh yes they are..."

"They're manufactured to MIL Specification blah in such and such an accredited factory..."

I wonder why?

Monkey Puzzle · 11 Jul 2008 at 20:21

I'm slightly worried about opening my GTX to see the damage... was okay about 3 or 4 months ago. I need to drain my loop later this month to add another radiator so I guess time will tell...

WJA96 · 11 Jul 2008 at 20:40

Monkey Puzzle said:
I'm slightly worried about opening my GTX to see the damage... was okay about 3 or 4 months ago. I need to drain my loop later this month to add another radiator so I guess time will tell...

Well, if it is corroded, just send it back to Swiftech and they'll send you another one to fret over.

Monkey Puzzle · 21 Aug 2008 at 23:43

Took some pics of my GTX when I drained it. Loads of gunk but I don't think it's galvanic corrosion as such but instead bits of congealed dye and maybe loose bits of PTFE? (first time watercooling and didn't realise barbs with O-rings don't require it). Pretty nasty though. In any case I can't afford a new block and the block seems largely okay so it's going to have to stay in my system for the time being. Think I'll switch to dyeless water and black tubing or UV coloured XSPC stuff next time I need to take my loop apart.....

shadowscotland · 22 Aug 2008 at 10:22

looks like just die and slime - should give you a 2-3C proformance boost now it's clean

pegasus1 · 22 Aug 2008 at 13:33

Any idea if this is just with the GTX blocks or are the Apogee GT blocks made to the same (poor) standard?