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Spec me a clutch

Discussion in 'Motors' started by bainbridge, 14 May 2021.

  1. bainbridge

    Mobster

    Joined: 9 Dec 2009

    Posts: 4,398

    Location: Bristol

    Hi Motors,

    So the GF wants to continue her long term relationship with a 2007 vauxhall astra 1.6 petrol. It's done 110k, the clutch is very worn and I'm going to change it myself. I've done all the servicing on our cars for many years but always used a garage for major work, so changing a clutch is new to me. What is a good brand of clutch kit to go for? ECP sell 3 clutch kits:

    Transmech
    Sachs
    Luk

    Are any of these decent? Is there a "go to" brand when it comes to clutches?

    Also, if anyone can direct me to a reasonably priced clutch alignment tool which has the scope to align various models of car I'd appreciate it.
     
  2. The Running Man

    Caporegime

    Joined: 18 Oct 2002

    Posts: 36,292

    Location: block 16, cell 12

    Generally Exedy plus oe throw out bearing.
     
  3. Temujin

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 1 Jun 2014

    Posts: 1,345

    For the likes of an Astra the Sachs will likely be fine I would think, LUK seem to be used quite abit in the older BMW community so might be worth a look.
     
  4. Maundie

    Mobster

    Joined: 20 Oct 2010

    Posts: 3,417

    LUK are fine, not heard of the others personally
     
  5. watercooledman

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jan 2021

    Posts: 1,625

    the cheapest will be fine in that car
     
  6. Gaygle

    Capodecina

    Joined: 7 Nov 2004

    Posts: 15,344

    Location: East of England

    Luk or Sachs are generally OEM factory fitted clutches. Keep an eye out on Amazon, they seem to do absolute bargain prices on LuK clutches sometimes.
     
  7. bainbridge

    Mobster

    Joined: 9 Dec 2009

    Posts: 4,398

    Location: Bristol

    Thanks for the replies, I'll keep an eye on Amazon too.
     
  8. SeatIbiza

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 21 Jan 2008

    Posts: 1,239

    Location: Cotswolds

    LUK is fine, check ebay, got my TT one from there including flywheel. I would change that too just because you'll have the car apart...

    Change the slave too...
     
  9. Clarkey

    Capodecina

    Joined: 18 Oct 2002

    Posts: 18,217

    I would advise against doing this as your first clutch job tbh. Absolute mission on this type of Astra you will hate your life.
     
  10. Jonny ///M

    Capodecina

    Joined: 23 Nov 2004

    Posts: 10,458

    Did the clutch on my 2009 1.6 turbo Astra H.

    Took my ten hours and had to drop my subframe enough to get the box out far enough, mine did have a 6 speed box so not sure if you'd have more space with your engine.

    I was £163 from carparts4less for a LUK kit with slave cylinder.

    My flywheel had excessive backslash/slop but I wasn't prepared to change that.

    I used a 1/2" extension wrapped in electrical tape to pack it out as an alignment tool.
     
  11. andy_mk3

    Capodecina

    Joined: 5 Oct 2009

    Posts: 11,282

    Location: Lincolnshire

    Sachs are generally the better, followed by LuK. I wouldn't touch transmech.
     
  12. SkodaMart

    Mobster

    Joined: 27 Jul 2009

    Posts: 4,320

    Location: Manchester

    Just put LUK in my BMW
     
  13. bainbridge

    Mobster

    Joined: 9 Dec 2009

    Posts: 4,398

    Location: Bristol

    Update:

    Clutch is now slipping so I've ordered a 3 piece LUK kit for £164.

    @Jonny ///M What was the most difficult part of the job?

    @Clarkey What makes this Astra so difficult?
     
  14. whitecrook

    Sgarrista

    Joined: 22 Aug 2005

    Posts: 8,751

    Location: Clydebank

    I did 1.8 vectra and gearbox change. Absolute bugger had to drop engine and pull it out wheel arch. I just used a broom handle and a socket extention bar with elec tape to align it all up.
     
  15. dLockers

    Soldato

    Joined: 21 Jan 2010

    Posts: 6,840

    Clutch specialist will be about £90 quid labour for something like that surely?
     
  16. Jonny ///M

    Capodecina

    Joined: 23 Nov 2004

    Posts: 10,458

    For me it was the subframe bolts inside the wheel arch as they were rusted solid from never being off. The other ones under the bulkhead have captive nuts which can be a royal PITA if they start to spin too. Mine being the 6 speed might have made it tighter than yours but I had to keep dropping the subframe until the arse of the gearbox would fit into the wheel arch and even then it was still awkward to get tools in to remove the pressure plate.

    Here are a few photos I took whilst doing it https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...ur-car-today.18472267/page-1404#post-33525614

    I'd crack the hub nuts whilst on the deck
    Jack it up and remove wheels
    Drain the gearbox oil, check the fill plug turns first. I had to refill through the gearbox linkage hole...
    Drive shafts out, not sure if you have the extra one I do that runs behind the block. Need to undo the lower arm to hub bolt to get the shafts out.
    Starter motor off whilst you're back there.
    Battery out and move coolant bottle out the way.
    Disconnect gear linkage cables.
    Gear linkage out, needs to be rotated a certain way to get it out.
    Disconnect front and rear engine mounts.
    Disconnect the gearbox mount on the right hand side of the box
    Engine will drop so support it with a jack + wood or something.
    Bell housing bolts and a lot of wiggling and swearing.
    Clutch pressure plate bolts.
    I was doing slave cylinder so a couple of bolts hold that in, biggest PITA was bleeding that thing.
     
  17. whitecrook

    Sgarrista

    Joined: 22 Aug 2005

    Posts: 8,751

    Location: Clydebank

    Ahh. Same type of clutch alignment tool that i used. Must be a universal standard of sorts
     
  18. bainbridge

    Mobster

    Joined: 9 Dec 2009

    Posts: 4,398

    Location: Bristol

    Thanks for replying. This Astra is a 2007 model and it already has several seized bolts which I've had to work around to do normal routine servicing jobs. TBH I think I might have bitten off more than I can chew with this job. I'm very organised, I clean and label the parts as I go, but I have no gas to put heat on seized parts and the clearance once the gearbox is separated looks really tight, like keyhole surgery.
     
  19. Jonny ///M

    Capodecina

    Joined: 23 Nov 2004

    Posts: 10,458

    Might be worth paying someone to do it as once you start it's a pain if you have to get help.

    My steering rack is leaking fluid so I've booked it in to get it swapped out for a recon unit at £370 all in, I could do it but can't be bothered messing about with the subframe again and/or seized bolts.
     
  20. Scania

    Capodecina

    Joined: 25 Nov 2004

    Posts: 24,820

    Location: On the road....

    If you just want a quick fix to move it on, perhaps, not in something you intended to keep.