Spec me an LED Torch

:(

Sorry that the Solarforce XP-G has disappointed you. the XP-G emitter is capable of emitting over 490 lumens compared to a measly 350 for a severely overdriven XR-E.
i knew that the solarforce dropins didn't drive the XP-G's hard, but i didn't know they were that under-driven.

On that L2 of yours, the L2 body and head (the shiny black parts) aren't HA (Type 3 anodize), they're just normal Type-2. only the tail-cap is Type-3 Hard-anodize.
You should have expected it to be a forward clicky (ie, activates when pushing forward before the click, as opposed to "reverse clicky", which activates on release after the click), after all, that is how it's listed on the solarforce-sales site :p
 
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Ah I'm not really disappointed, in fact I'm pleased that it's as bright as the C8 (well, a bit brighter anyway) as they both heat up your hand/face/eyeballs quite easily but for the 2x increase in price I was expecting something a bit more I guess!

Plus, I can just upgrade the drop in down the line when Cree release an update.
 
Khaaan! said:
Ah I'm not really disappointed, in fact I'm pleased that it's as bright as the C8 (well, a bit brighter anyway) as they both heat up your hand/face/eyeballs quite easily but for the 2x increase in price I was expecting something a bit more I guess!

Plus, I can just upgrade the drop in down the line when Cree release an update.
Click to expand...

indeed :)

By the way, if you don't like the forward-clicky, i have a spare solarforce L2 tail-switch with the regular reverse-clicky that i don't want or need. you can have it if you want, the switch-units are exchangeable between the tailcaps if you have the right tool.

you may want to swap the switch module because said spare tailcap is the gold/sand colour :p
 
Okay Matey, i'll try and pop that in the mail for you as soon as i can. :)

<edit>
Oh Damnit, when i went on to solarforce-sales, i noticed that they have L2P-Grey bodies back in stock and i ordered one on the spot.

i really need to stop dumping cash into lighting devices! *facepalm*
 
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Ta!

Edit, scratch that! Just ordered an XM-L T6 6500K (SKU 55026) from Dealextreme) for $15.21

Various torch forum posters on that SKU compared its light output to an SST and has good spill with strong spot, so looks like it could be a nice C8 upgrade :D

Also, I noticed the tactical head on the L2 does hide quite a bit of spill so the spread is the same as the C8 with tactical head.
 
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Got my L2P body today and have to say I'm quite impressed for the price.

You can see where the extra money went on my TK12, the threads are far better quality and the anodising is a lot better. I'd also guess that the scratch resistant lens on the TK12 is thicker and better quality.

I like the fact it can stand on its tail, something I was a bit annoyed the Tk12 couldn't do.

DSC_1556r.jpg
 
Some good info in this thread! I'm looking at getting a new torch. I worked as a camp counsellor last summer in America and the Fenix PD30 I had was soo useful for me. The only reason I need a new one is that some thieving little kid stole it from me and I never got it back. Doing the same thing this summer, hence why I need a new one. I just don't think I could spend the same amount of money on a new Fenix, as good as they are.

Now, I have a load of unused CR123a batteries that I had planned on using in the Fenix which I would like to use up. So my requirements for the torch would be that it can take these. I like the look of the Solarforce L2P body + drop in but am a little confused as to which ones would be best suited to the CR123a's? Any ideas?
 
No idea but I bought Ultrafire 2400mAh protected x2 for about a tenner off eBay, they're genuine ones too and were recommended on CPF so went for them!
 
Cheers, might get 2 of each (solarforce and ultrafire) and see how they compare to my AW 18650 cells.

Would like to get cheaper ones if they're ok as £12 for one battery is ridiculous.
 
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i hear tell that the best source for good 18650 cells is laptop battery packs. preferably ones that are about two years old at the most and that don't hold much of a charge.

Apparently, it's usually only one or two cells that don't hold much charge and the others are usually fine. it's a good way to get cheap Sony/Panasonic/Sanyo cells. :)
 
I just use the camera flash feature on my nexus one android phone, it produces a very bright light!
There are apps to keep the light permenently on or use it as a strobe etc.
 
Aod, can you confirm that the below parts will work fine together? I will be using 2xCR123a 3.0v cells initially and once I've used up those then I will switch to some rechargeable 18650 cells. Simple stuff but I want to make sure before I order :p

Body: http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=7&id=18
Bulb: http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=28&id=31

Can you also clarify something. Currently to change modes on that body, you have to fully turn it off and on again. So would a 'forward clicky' switch mean that you just have to depress it slightly to change modes rather than full off and on?

EDIT: Also, would there be any benefit in getting the lower voltage LED, here: http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=10&id=113 ?
 
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Aod said:
i hear tell that the best source for good 18650 cells is laptop battery packs. preferably ones that are about two years old at the most and that don't hold much of a charge.

Apparently, it's usually only one or two cells that don't hold much charge and the others are usually fine. it's a good way to get cheap Sony/Panasonic/Sanyo cells. :)
Click to expand...

Hmm, I use dewalt 18v tools that have Li-on batteries with "nano" technology. They're supposed to take up to 2000 charges, whereas ordinary Li-on cells only take 500.

If only they didnt cost like £70 each i'd disassemble one :D.

Not sure who makes them, i couldn't see any manufacturer marking on the cells.
 
Borden said:
Aod, can you confirm that the below parts will work fine together? I will be using 2xCR123a 3.0v cells initially and once I've used up those then I will switch to some rechargeable 18650 cells. Simple stuff but I want to make sure before I order :p

Body: http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=7&id=18
Bulb: http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=28&id=31

Can you also clarify something. Currently to change modes on that body, you have to fully turn it off and on again. So would a 'forward clicky' switch mean that you just have to depress it slightly to change modes rather than full off and on?

EDIT: Also, would there be any benefit in getting the lower voltage LED, here: http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=10&id=113 ?
Click to expand...

Yeah, those'll work great together. you may get slightly less brightness with the 18650 cell, but not considerably.

Solarforce modules don't push the LED's very hard, if you're looking for something (considerably) brighter, then you could try something like this:

2.7v - 9v input, 3-mode - http://flashlightconnection.com/Thr...-5-Amp-XP-G-P60-Size-Drop-In-3-Mode-p304.html
2.7v - 9v input, 1-mode - http://flashlightconnection.com/Thr...p-XP-G-P60-Size-Drop-In-Single-Mode-p305.html
Low-voltage (for single 18650-use only) 3-mode - http://flashlightconnection.com/Thr...-G-P60-Size-2-7-4-2V-Drop-In-3-Mode-p306.html

The 2.7 - 9v ones will work best with two CR123A / RCR123A cells, and will have reduced brightness with a 18650. the low-voltage one will have max brightness with a 18650, but can't be used with 2xCR123A cells.
At any rate, if you end up going for one of these high-brightness dropins, you'd do well to look into shimming the dropin to the body for better thermal conduction :)

<edit>
Alternate sellers:
http://www.illuminationgear.com/145071.html
http://www.batteryjunction.com/p60-dropin.html

:)
 
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