This looks pretty good - http://shop.audioimages.co.uk/kenwood-ksc-sw10-passive-radiator-powered-subwoofer-system-p-1384.html
Takes line level input too.
Takes line level input too.
This looks pretty good - http://shop.audioimages.co.uk/kenwood-ksc-sw10-passive-radiator-powered-subwoofer-system-p-1384.html
Takes line level input too.
[TW]Fox;15398449 said:I don't want to go to the hassle of having a sub in the boot because it's not particularly stealthy, the boot is a sealed enclosure anyway, etc.
I've never had much look with in cabin acitive subs, tryed two in the MX-5 both sucked, tryed and alpine one in the Passat that sucked as well, ended up building my own enclosure.
Out of curiosity - is there any point? The old 2d navigation in beemers is pretty poor by today's standards, it's worse than just about any £50 stand alone sat nav unit. Plus of course, usability of analogue TV is practically zero these days, especially in your neck of the woods.
You're already looking at a new car
and have been happy with your audio so far so I wouldn't spend too much time or money or mess about with it too much as it may affect resale value.
I've only read the first 10 or so replys but 6*9's really are not as bad as everyone makes up. Only things you need to consider is they do use a lot of power. I doubt a standard HU would power some decent 6*9's very well and you'll find other bits cutting out. Also the mounting depth; your factory fitted 6*9's will be maybe a few cm deep, where as most of the ones you buy can be up to 10cm deep. You need to make sure you have the mounting depth to play with otherwise they simply won't fit.
I found a set of £80~ 6*9's using exisiting wiring in the back and some cheapish (£40~) sony 5 1/2 front door speakers gave me a pretty good level of sound in my old car.
I never used the factory HU though and I've been told simply replacing the HU (which is a tiny amp in itself, I got a £120~ Alpine job that was brilliant) makes a massive difference.
[TW]Fox;15400513 said:My car has no resale value.
[TW]Fox;15400587 said:It's probably worth about 20 or 30 quid at the moment. Once I've retrofitted the M-Sport II steering wheel I estimate this value to climb to about £32.
I'm not sure i can take anyone who thinks a £120 alpine HU and 5 1/2" Sony door speaker are excellent seriously.
Loud only means good to chavs who don't care about SQ.
6x9 mounting depth on a saloon car usually isn't an issue this is due to them mounting under the shelf in free air.
[TW]Fox;15398449 said:I've threatened to do this so many times now I've lost count, and each time I get a load of advice then it all goes out of date. But anyway, I know where I'm going with the car so hopefully it's more relevant.
I'd like to overhaul the ICE in the car and I'm going to stick with the OEM head unit (As I'll be retrofitting the BMW 16:9 navigation and television in the new year).
This means I need 4 speakers and an amplifier. I'd favour a compact amplifier if possible as i intend to make the install as stealth and OEM looking as possible.
This is where it gets controversial. I'd like to include a set of 6x9's in the install.
Yes, yes, I know. 6x9's. The speaker of choice for the discerning chav in a Corsa. But there is good reason... I think.
I don't want to go to the hassle of having a sub in the boot because it's not particularly stealthy, the boot is a sealed enclosure anyway, etc.
The E39 has 6x9's as standard fitted under the parcel shelf so the theory is I can slip a set of aftermarket ones in there to provide me with some bass. Meanwhile, up front, I'll have a decent set of components fited in the original speaker positions in the doors.
So, I'm after:
1x Amp
1x Set of 5 1/2 components for the front
1x Set of 6x9's for the rear
Budget? Dunno, what do I need to spend? Lets say 300 quid for now. Can I get something that sounds pretty good for the money with this choice of setup?
Cheers guys.
people go "ZOMG 6*9s!" because of what they read on other boards, but dont actually know why theyre bad
a set of loud amp'd 6*9s will produce a lot of sound, but as a result of all the mid and trebble, it will drag the sound stage behind you, which you dont want because it will sound bad because human ears cant work out sounds behind them that well (look at the shape of your ear)
This.
Boosting bass and top is just pure pretentiousness. Mid-range, unspectacular tough it is, is what defines music. Aside from which, music quality and ICE are 100% mutually exclusive.
This.
Boosting bass and top is just pure pretentiousness. Mid-range, unspectacular tough it is, is what defines music. Aside from which, music quality and ICE are 100% mutually exclusive.