Spec me some upgraded components for my bike please
- Thread starter SexyGreyFox
- Start date
Right then, if it was any more degreased, cleaned & lubed it would be an extra in a porn film.
I got the Muc Off stuff.
I got the Muc Off stuff.
Gears seem to be working a lot smoother but no matter what I do I can only have gears 1 to 6 or 2 to 7 depending on how I set it up. I've watched every You Tube setup video going so any tips appreciated.
Further up I linked to Avid BB5 disc brakes and the cheapest I found was £29 and the Avid BB7 was out of my price range however I've seen this rather excellent deal for both front & rear calipers + rotors - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191078659...49&var=490269940792&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I rang the number and he said they would be a direct replacement.
Any thoughts or go for it?
Further up I linked to Avid BB5 disc brakes and the cheapest I found was £29 and the Avid BB7 was out of my price range however I've seen this rather excellent deal for both front & rear calipers + rotors - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191078659...49&var=490269940792&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I rang the number and he said they would be a direct replacement.
Any thoughts or go for it?
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,647
Have you replaced the cable yet as the friction on rusty ones will stop it dropping down the gears properly unless you have really low tension which is why it might not be going to 1st gear when you can get 7th.
Unclamp the pinch bolt on the cable when sitting the limit screws too, screw the H screw in until it jumps up to 6th then back it off until it's sat vertically under 7th gear. Push the mech up to 1st gear and check it runs straight until that cog too. If not then screw the L screw in to stop it going too far into the wheel or unscrew it to allow the mech to to move further toward the wheel.
Connect the cable back up, twist up to 6th, if it doesn't go up wind the barrel adjuster out until it does. On the way back down if it sticks from 1st to 2nd etc then wind the adjuster in slightly until it drops. If it then doesn't click up smoothly change the cable.
Those brakes will fit and once set up are pretty good brakes but the shimano deore hydraulics are a similar price are they not?
Unclamp the pinch bolt on the cable when sitting the limit screws too, screw the H screw in until it jumps up to 6th then back it off until it's sat vertically under 7th gear. Push the mech up to 1st gear and check it runs straight until that cog too. If not then screw the L screw in to stop it going too far into the wheel or unscrew it to allow the mech to to move further toward the wheel.
Connect the cable back up, twist up to 6th, if it doesn't go up wind the barrel adjuster out until it does. On the way back down if it sticks from 1st to 2nd etc then wind the adjuster in slightly until it drops. If it then doesn't click up smoothly change the cable.
Those brakes will fit and once set up are pretty good brakes but the shimano deore hydraulics are a similar price are they not?
Thanks for all that, much appreciated and I'll probably try again at the weekend.
I know you are giving great advice but I'd rather stick with the mechanical for now and less expense.
I know you are giving great advice but I'd rather stick with the mechanical for now and less expense.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,647
I just want the best for you 
If I know the bike it will probably have a metal lever blade and resin clamp, these are crap.
If you can pick up some new brake levers then they will bring the brakes to life.
If I know the bike it will probably have a metal lever blade and resin clamp, these are crap.
If you can pick up some new brake levers then they will bring the brakes to life.
Man of Honour
Far be it for me to agree with Dimple but I would also be a bit worried about changing over from cables to hydraulics. Hydraulics are definitely better in many ways but the ease factor of cable-actuated disc brakes is definitely an important one.
but I would also be a bit worried about changing over from cables to hydraulics. Hydraulics are definitely better in many ways but the ease factor of cable-actuated disc brakes is definitely an important one.
The £20 difference shouldn't be an issue. Hydraulic disc brakes really are that much better to use and require far less maintenance. With most cable discs you need to constantly adjust the pad clearance, with most hydro discs that's automatic. They're generally just fit and forget until you need to change the pads.
Man of Honour
This is very true and having recently made the move I really agree that the reduction in maintenance is absolutely massive.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,647
Far be it for me to agree with Dimple
What even is this?
Shimano really are fit and forget with the self adjusting pads. Avids on the other hand decide that the static pad adjuster would prefer to seize up or the inner cable will get corroded, or the tri align washers crumble when looked at due to being ****.