Strange 330D boost issue.

Surely you had the new turbo sent back as it was the same as the cheaper one you had purchased?
 
I recently procured a turbo for my 52 plate 330d. No problems what so ever with finding the right part, although most refurbishers had the newer 204ps engine's turbo in stock.
 
yeah the one the mechanic ordered went back and got the right one, was just saying realOEM part numbers are wrong, so put the right new turbo on and it still has the same problem as it had with the previous turbo and its not the MAF and no errors show up on the diagnostics.
 
Mates car seems to be losing boost at random times, can happen at any revs.
He said the turbo is still working just no power, blip the throttle a couple of times and its fine again.
The only stuff we have done to car is cleaned the EGR valve out, could it be a split vacuum pipe or something?
It can't be a boost leak surely as the symptoms would be there all the time you would think.
Thanks for any help.

was it doing it before the EGR clean?
 
mechanic has had the EGR off though and put it back on, as he has done the swirl flaps.
plus surely the diagnostics would come up with a boost pressure error for any air leaks.
 
All sorted now and the problem is down to a sticky actuator on the swirl flaps, strange I know but that was what was causing the boost loss.
 
All sorted now and the problem is down to a sticky actuator on the swirl flaps, strange I know but that was what was causing the boost loss.
It's great to hear finally that someone has been struggling with the issue that I also have.
Could you please describe the solution a bit more detailed? I hope you still remember as the last post is 9 years old...

Thanks!
 
It's great to hear finally that someone has been struggling with the issue that I also have.
Could you please describe the solution a bit more detailed? I hope you still remember as the last post is 9 years old...

Thanks!

Wow, this is an old thread. I would consider getting the swirl flaps removed with the blanking plates. Takes about an hour for a competent home mechanic. Plenty of guides around on the net. I'd actually be surprised if there were still any 330d/530d of this era without the blanking done.
 
Wow, this is an old thread. I would consider getting the swirl flaps removed with the blanking plates. Takes about an hour for a competent home mechanic. Plenty of guides around on the net. I'd actually be surprised if there were still any 330d/530d of this era without the blanking done.
Hey Django!

Thanks for commenting! They are already removed. It seems that the actuator which is moving the flaps can be defective, and this can cause an intermittent limp mode. I am about to disconnect this actuator and hoping the best :D
 
Hey Django!

Thanks for commenting! They are already removed. It seems that the actuator which is moving the flaps can be defective, and this can cause an intermittent limp mode. I am about to disconnect this actuator and hoping the best :D

If the swirl flaps were removed, and blanking plates were put in place (which is the process), the actuator mechanism shouldn't be there as there are no flaps to move.
 
If the swirl flaps were removed, and blanking plates were put in place (which is the process), the actuator mechanism shouldn't be there as there are no flaps to move.
Actually it is. My mechanic thought it is okay to leave it there as it is only moving the rod but nothing else. As you mentioned the blanking plates are fitted.
 
Usually you can get the swirl flaps mapped out which eliminates any issues with the mechanism all together.
 
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It's not a boost solenoid issue is it? Due to modification i'll be replacing mine with a stronger/faster unit and it could be causing the bypass gate to open.
 
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