Su-27, work in progress

Ive been watching this on Britmodeller for a fair long time, as normal your work is just stunning, if only i had half the talent maybe my Typhoon would get finished.
 
i have a Saab draken that needs airbrushing an finishing. one of my friends, gave me this AZTEK airbrush kit, with all the heads etc..just havent got round to using it yet. :/

im scared to give it a go incase i mess it up. lol.

in any case, that model is awesome! amazing detail. i wish i had the patience to keep going on my model..
 
Cheers fellas :)

-Tauren- said:
i have a Saab draken that needs airbrushing an finishing. one of my friends, gave me this AZTEK airbrush kit, with all the heads etc..just havent got round to using it yet. :/

im scared to give it a go incase i mess it up. lol.
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Azteks are very much chalk and cheese airbrushes, they used to be all the rage a few years ago but seem to suffer from a reputation of being a bit prone to breakage, still, if you google work by Chris Wauchop you will see what that brush is capable of doing in his hands.

Go for it, nothing ventured ;)
 
Very nicely done, is this the best one you have done to date? What is your flagship model that you are most proud of?
 
Lovely! Very impressive. I tell you something else, those colours are awesome. It's the combination of bright colours on a model that makes it so much more difficult to do - at least with olive drab and dark colours if you make a hash you've got more chance of being able to cover it up and call it a 'feature' :)
 
philstanbridge said:
Lovely! Very impressive. I tell you something else, those colours are awesome. It's the combination of bright colours on a model that makes it so much more difficult to do - at least with olive drab and dark colours if you make a hash you've got more chance of being able to cover it up and call it a 'feature' :)
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I do that all the time :D
 
Epic work!

I used to like doing the airfix models when I was younger, I couldn't even stick the decals on straight and the clear ****-pit would end up with a smear of glue over it :p

Look like you are several million times better than I could ever be lol.
 
@ phil, If its a tropical jobbie with the dark earth/sand camouflage, I'd use a "raw umber" coloured wash mate (very dark brown basically). Btw does the model have recessed or raised panel lines? If recessed then a straight forward covering, let dry, then wipe off. One thing I have noticed with the promodeller wash is the way it tends to sit on the painted surface, does it tend to sit in "globules" until its soread over the kit? If so, it might need a "wetting" agent added. I tried washing a few years ago in "Poster paints" and the result was fine but I had to add a very small amount of washing upi liquid to get the wash to flow as it should, the same result can be a achieved if you, wait for it, "spit" on the wash as saliva acts in the same way as a weting agent.
I have always really used an oil based wash, raw umber straight out of the tube and heavily diluted in white spirit. It tends to flow very nicely, sits in the panel lines and give the model an eveness colourwise, BUT, you do need to seal the paint work in acrylic varnish if you've used enamel based apints. It shouldn't be a problem if you've painted suing acrylics.
 
Nick1881 said:
Epic work!


Look like you are several million times better than I could ever be lol.
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Its only practice mate, and knowing the techniques, washing, dry brushing, what glue to use, when to do summat and when not to, having the right tools (airbrush, etc). When someone actually shows you how to do something in front of you and demonstrates how easy and quick it is then the learning curve isn't so steep. The site promodeller has bundles of tutorials outlining basic and advanced building techniques and videos of certain kits being built start to finish, very informative at the least:)
 
It's a Tamiya 1:48 and it has recessed lines. It's a pretty decent quality model tbh, for the money anyway. I don't have any oil paints although I have heard you mention this before - I work exclusively with acrylics, as I prefer them for a number of reasons. Just a lot easier to clean and manage.

I might need to experiment. I've tried the sand wash on the underside and it appears to have worked fine although it is quite subtle - I didn't want to ruin the effect so I used it quite sparingly. The dark dirt wash I have here was a bit gritty and I'm not sure that worked too well, although having said that I think I was somewhat impatient and didn't wait for the Klear to cure properly. This model has taken months to do, and has had several days to dry out before I applied the weathering. But I can see that it has taken, so I'll try the effect on the top and see what happens.
 
Re the ProModeller wash, to be honest it isn't my first choice of wash as it is quite stark, I used it on this particular model as I wanted quite defined panel lines to break up the large expanses of dark and light colours - its basically defined as a 'sludge' wash, ie it goes on as a mixture that fills the panel line and the residue is wiped off when dry with a damp cloth.

Like Pieman my normal choice of wash is artists oil paint thinned with turps - you can control the intensity of the wash much better this way and create more subtle effects.

Phil - posts some pics up, lets' have a look :)
 
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