Temperature issues

stuie

stuie

stuie

Soldato
Joined
29 May 2012
Posts
3,364
Location
Dorset
Having just done a very long over due upgrade to my machine I thought it was time to freshen up the loop with new fluid and tubes but having done so ive now caused myself a problem

So loop order to start with

Pump/Res > 3090 > 420Rad > CPU > 280Rad

I currently have a massive temperature issue. Ive had to fully remove the overclock on my cpu just to get it booted to windows, and as soon as I go into a game the gpu hits 80c just in the loading screen. Pre Maintanance the GPU never went above 55c after a few hours of gaming

The water temperature in the rads isnt getting warm so Im assuming a flow issue is causing it, the top of the loop is the 420 rad so thats my suspect

Ive spent 2 days shaking, rotating etc, but given all ive done is replace tubes, stuck some fresh x1 premix in and repasted the cpu with some mx-4, I cant belive theres a fault in the loop so it must be air right?

After any advice / reassurance ive not broken anything, given the system boots and im typing this on it, nothing massive can be broken right?
 
Last edited:
Would have to be a massive airlock
Kind of unlikely to be air Would be my guess
First thing to check should be pump rpm
When I put this build together
It ran the pump at minimum rpm by default
Barely had time to get in the bios and correct it
As temperature was going through the roof

If you're returning to a distro
Or pump/res through a top port
Removing some coolant let's you see the actual flow

Didn't change gpu inlet/outlet while doing the maintenance?
 
is it a gpu problem?, you mention you took the oc off the cpu to get windows to boot, how have you got the tubes configured on the gpu?, if you have them on both sides rater than either side it can potentially bypass the block effectively starving your gpu of cool liquid.
 
Last edited:
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Would have to be a massive airlock
Kind of unlikely to be air Would be my guess
First thing to check should be pump rpm
When I put this build together
It ran the pump at minimum rpm by default
Barely had time to get in the bios and correct it
As temperature was going through the roof

If you're returning to a distro
Or pump/res through a top port
Removing some coolant let's you see the actual flow

Didn't change gpu inlet/outlet while doing the maintenance?
Click to expand...

Great advice as usual mate, pretty much what i would do.
 
Pump is running around 4000rpm

No disto block

Gpu is running in on the left side out on the right side

If it was just gpu and it was bypassing that block, the cpu would still be cool wouldnt it?

My only thought is that the cards block is directional and that's somehow causing the flow issue

It's a zotac 3090 Arctic storm
 
Last edited:
wookiee87 said:
is it a gpu problem?, you mention you took the oc off the cpu to get windows to boot, how have you got the tubes configured on the gpu?, if you have them on both sides rater than either side it can potentially bypass the block effectively starving your gpu of cool liquid.
Click to expand...
The cpu is overheating too. Which makes me think its a flow issue
 
If the gpu was OK before
And you didn't alter in/out ports during
Your maintenance
Shouldn't matter if specific ports for in/out
Since 55c after few hours gaming You said
Isn't unreasonable temp

As mentioned earlier
Can you visibly see the flow return into res/distro?
If not if you have some spare tubing
You could rig up an out and back in into a basin/bucket/container
To visually confirm flow speed

Other options
Bypass gpu and see what happens
Bypass cpu and see what happens

Could even be the cpu or/and gpu microfins are blocked
Thus stopping the flow
If you didn't inspect those during maintenance
This would be more likely than an air lock
Since your loop layout didn't suffer from it before presumably
 
Last edited:
Can't see the return flow sadly.

And yes system was fine before I did what I thought was a clean up.

It's a d5 so there should be plenty of head lift and flow

Beginning to think I should have just left it, it's was fine for years

Feel like I'm going to need to drain it all and start again lol
 
Last edited:
The joys of custom watercooling sadly
But at least your pumps not broken
Since it's reporting around the correct rpm
That would be a worse situation

What sort of reservoir?
If its cylinder type
Is there a port on top of it?
 
Are you using clear tubes. the coolant is it clear or a dyed colour, you should be able to feel the tubes for some kind of vibration to indicate flow, if the pipes dont hum/vibrate then a flow issue is present.

Hold the pipes inbetween the pump and the gpu then gpu and the 420mm rad and again from the cpu to the 280mm rad, you should be able to tell in water is moving through or not. if at any stage you dont feel hum/vibration you need to look at that part of the loop to see whats going on.
 
stuie said:
Xspc d5 tank pump res combo
Click to expand...
This?

www.overclockers.co.uk

XSPC D5 Photon 170 ARGB Reservoir / Pump Combo

Order XSPC D5 Photon 170 ARGB Reservoir / Pump Combo now online and benefit from fast delivery.
www.overclockers.co.uk www.overclockers.co.uk

If so you could move the return to the top of res
And visually see flow
Though from memory of the photon res
Would need a m20 to g 1/4 adapter

A possible thing to do for the future
Makes seeing flow issues much easier

Pump reports rpm
A severe airlock in my opinion anyway
Should be unlikely since its same loop as before
My money is on your cpu microfins being clogged
Seconded by gpu microfins
Would be unusual if you're using clear coolant
But still most likeliest to me anyway
 
Presumably you changed graphics card if you're saying you did an upgrade? So that means new block - have you checked the recommended in/out ports?

Pics would help a lot I'm sure.
 
oddly enough, i had the same issue when i last upgraded my watercooling system before going back to air. For me i had a large air lock in the pump. I gave the whole system a little tilt forward, backwards and side to side a couple times and that got the air lock out. Otherwise, as already mentioned, it could be the blocks being clogged.
 
imgur.com

imgur.com

Discover the magic of the internet at Imgur, a community powered entertainment destination. Lift your spirits with funny jokes, trending memes, entertaining gifs, inspiring stories, viral videos, and so much more from users.
imgur.com imgur.com

Its on its back currently but you get the idea
 
Not meaning to be rude but them tubes look bad or maybe its the water as the same colour can be seen with the reservoir. i'm now leaning towards clogging on the blocks/rads.
 
tried opening both blocks and cleaning the fins, and checking the jet plate. Possible some debris stuck or jetplate slightly off center.

Get some new tubing too.. though the tubing is discoloured, possible algae forming disrupting flow.. plus with clear tubing is easier to see problems rather than just by feel
 
Last edited:
Its fresh water and tubes, its an orange uv reactive water.

Gives me something to work with though ill strip it down and start again. I wouldnt be suprised to be honest it did go about a decade with no maintanance prior to this I did flush it with battery water a couple times but maybe it needs more than that

Thanks all
 
Last edited:
stuie said:
Its fresh water and tubes, its an orange uv reactive water.

Gives me something to work with though ill strip it down and start again. I wouldnt be suprised to be honest it did go about a decade with no maintanance prior to this

Thanks all
Click to expand...
won't be the issue but wondered.. is the water premix, or you add concentrate to it..

If the latter, i'd personally fill it with clear till i know its fully working, before adding any dye to finish.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom