Temperature issues

im4gine3 said:
won't be the issue but wondered.. is the water premix, or you add concentrate to it..

If the latter, i'd personally fill it with clear till i know its fully working, before adding any dye to finish.
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Premix

Ill go down the clear deionised route for a bit till its sorted
 
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Try to take all the blocks apart and give them a really good clean, also flush each radiator and make sure coolant flows through them before putting it all back together, its not unheard of that some rads arn't built correctly and they have a inlet but the return out is sealed somewhere deeper in the rad. if thats the case you'll need a replacment rad.
 
wookiee87 said:
Try to take all the blocks apart and give them a really good clean, also flush each radiator and make sure coolant flows through them before putting it all back together, its not unheard of that some rads arn't built correctly and they have a inlet but the return out is sealed somewhere deeper in the rad. if thats the case you'll need a replacment rad.
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By sealed you mean blocked?

Its not a new rad and was running fine for years
 
stuie said:
By sealed you mean blocked?

Its not a new rad and was running fine for years
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you can get rads that are sealed on one end from the factory, its rare but can happen, but if you've had it working fine for years then something else is wrong, as others have sugested and you a full teardown is needed and check the blocks and rads to be 100% sure.

you can make a loop just with your pump, connect the intel and outlet together and you'll be able to tell in the pump is working, the flow will be crazy fast and easy to see.
 
wookiee87 said:
you can get rads that are sealed on one end from the factory, its rare but can happen, but if you've had it working fine for years then something else is wrong, as others have sugested and you a full teardown is needed and check the blocks and rads to be 100% sure.

you can make a loop just with your pump, connect the intel and outlet together and you'll be able to tell in the pump is working, the flow will be crazy fast and easy to see.
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Yeah like a decade or so these arnt new rads

Sounds like an excuse for a well over due teardown, and maybe some newer parts to match that 3090
 
huston weve found the problem

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At least now I know what happens to a loop with zero maintanance for a decade

Just glad ive found an explaination
 
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stuie said:
hmm theres an idea. Are there any decent ones that will have a fan header on to link to the mobo?
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Go for the Aquacomputer Next if you want reliable/quality flow meter, but comes at a price, else a standard flow meter dial should suffice. i have one for sale in mm if needed.

I'd stay away from Barrowch flow meters though
 
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stuie said:
hmm theres an idea. Are there any decent ones that will have a fan header on to link to the mobo?
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They range in price
And in complexity too

£10 to £20 approximately simple g 1/4 in and out
With spinning impeller for visual flow

Approximately £40 for something like barrow oled
Shows flow and coolant temperature
Both are calculated internally
Connects to a fan header I think
But it's only for power the data is internally calculated

Over £40 something from aquacomputer
Will be able to connect to various motherboard headers
But require a motherboard that actually has those headers

That's a rough guide
May be other stuff I am not aware of

Cheapest one the spindle may (or may not)
Get seized up eventually as usually just plastic on
A spindle without a bearing
Got one in my distro and it's temperamental whether it spins or not
Which is why I removed some coolant to visually see
The return flow

Edit
On the distro the impeller is only partially in the flow
So may be less reliable than fully enclosed one
 
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most of the impeller types are not consistent to be honest.. i had a few which wouldn't spin unless i turned up the RPM of the pump.. so if the flow was low, the spindle would just sit there.. (even if my D5 was set to 3/4 mark)
 
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im4gine3 said:
most of the impeller types are not consistent to be honest.. i had a few which wouldn't spin unless i turned up the RPM of the pump.. so if the flow was low, the spindle would just sit there.. (even if my D5 was set to 3/4 mark)
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Yeah probably due to as I mentioned
They just sit on plastic
Instead of using a bearing for less resistance
 
Rebuild complete distilled only at the moment but after about an hour of gaming at stock, 3090 never got above 38c and 3770k nothing above 52

Going to give it a few days to see how things go then drain at the weekend and refill with premix
 
I use the barrow oled flow temp sensor. No idea how accurate it is but it's good for a reference point and easy to glance at in the case without having to open software etc. They cost about ~£50 from shops over here but can be found for about ~£25 from the Chinese rainforest
 
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stuie said:
Rebuild complete distilled only at the moment but after about an hour of gaming at stock, 3090 never got above 38c and 3770k nothing above 52

Going to give it a few days to see how things go then drain at the weekend and refill with premix
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Good temperature for the 3090
My 3080ti gets hotter than that in gaming
Though I do have a 5950x dumping more heat into
My loop

Totally random question
Did you get that 3090 from ocuk B grade ?
 
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