Temps High on Custom Loop

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Black Noir said:
Loop order really doesn't matter.
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a 280mm rad cannot cool such a heat load, unless you run 100% fan speed but that is simply too loud, you want to exaust that kind of heat out of the case but in the op's case i reckon the 480mm rad is dumping all that heat back into the case, because the 280mm rad is trying to cool down it cant take anymore heat away from inside the case and a 120mm exaust isnt enough, the loop will continue to heat up until it reaches a max, 90c on cpu and 70c on gpu is far to high, my old 5950x never got past 70c even under bechmaking or games and my gpu was in the mid 40's (6900xtu liqid devil) but i run dual corsair x2 420mm radiators and a d5 pump, even my new 7950x setup runs cool.

this is my watercooling setup 420mm rad top taking all the heat out and a front 420mm cooling the water down with minimal heat going back into the case (corsair 7000d) and a d5 pump/res
fans at idle are around 840rpm on all 7 and get under load hit around 1300rpm. Pump rpm idle around 2700rpm and under load hits around 3900-4100rpm

Y4Y6z9Y.jpg.png
 
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@wookiee87 I digress
But what tubing is that?

And the op has 2 x 120mm exhaust fans not 1
Ones that aren't on radiators that is
One top and one rear
I am in the loop order doesn't matter camp too though
Providing there's enough airflow that is
Then things should reach equilibrium
I would say a 280mm would only be few degrees different to a 360mm
Since bigger fans can move more air
And that's certainly not a thin 280mm he has
 
wookiee87 said:
a 280mm rad cannot cool such a heat load, unless you run 100% fan speed but that is simply too loud, you want to exaust that kind of heat out of the case but in the op's case i reckon the 480mm rad is dumping all that heat back into the case, because the 280mm rad is trying to cool down it cant take anymore heat away from inside the case and a 120mm exaust isnt enough, the loop will continue to heat up until it reaches a max, 90c on cpu and 70c on gpu is far to high, my old 5950x never got past 70c even under bechmaking or games and my gpu was in the mid 40's (6900xtu liqid devil) but i run dual corsair x2 420mm radiators and a d5 pump, even my new 7950x setup runs cool.

this is my watercooling setup 420mm rad top taking all the heat out and a front 420mm cooling the water down with minimal heat going back into the case and a d5 pump/res

Y4Y6z9Y.jpg.png
Click to expand...

It's a nice theory, but loop order doesn't matter.

The liquid is moving around the loop so fast that it never sits in one location long enough for any one radiator to make a difference. The overall cooling capacity of the radiators and fans have a much greater effect, so in essence installing more radiators is the only way to make a measurable difference. I do agree that fan intake/exhaust are a factor, but even then it's minimal.

The only order you truly need is worrying about feeding your pump with a supply of water from a reservoir, to ensure it doesn't run dry (and burn out).

In your loop you have 840mm of cooling capacity, you can't consider them individual unless they're on separate loops.
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
And that's certainly not a thin 280mm he has
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thick rads require fast rpm fans or push pull if you want to reduce noise, all depends on fpi, a lot requires more rpm to overcome the extra surface area, low fpi require less rpm of the fans, i ran into this issue over the years as well as a few freinds of mine, i moved from ek rads as they were good but fpi where more than other brands hence why i use corsair rads, there fpi are less and i can get away with running fans at much lower rpm's but maintain good cooling
 
From what I've read, loop order doesn't matter.

Even if it did, there's a Rad between each component. I have the active backplate for the GPU from EK, and I'm 100% the orientation I had the tubes originally was correct.

Loop order is:

1. Pump/Res
2. GPU
3. 280mm Thick Rad. 2x EK Vardar Static Pressure 140mm fans
4. CPU
5. 480mm thinner rad, 4x Noctua Static Pressure 120mm Fans
6. Pump/Res
 
mk1_salami said:
From what I've read, loop order doesn't matter.
Click to expand...

i quite agree that loop order after the pump doesn't matter, the choice of radiators does, i'm sure i saw the 3090 ftw3 hybrid card when it was relased that was cooled by a 240/280mm rad all by its self.
If you had the room you should always use the biggest rad as the primary cooling of the loop and any other as surplus or to cool the fulid down to maximise thermal capacity of the water.

I totally understand that you cant mount a 480mm rad in the top, there looks to be not enough room, but if you coluld it would solve all your problems as a 480mm would have no issue cooling a gpu and cpu even overclocked, havinng all that heat be dumped out of the top is far better, and then have the 280 rad as a further cool down mesure so when it get back to the pump the coolsest water hits the gpu making it run far cooler and the cpu.

The way it is now the 280mm cant cope and when the 480mm kicks in all that heat goes into the case which makes temps sky rocket instead of being expeled out of the case.

you'd be far better off using a 360mm at the top and ideally a 360mm in the front if it fits, if not a 360mm top and 240/280mm in the front.
 
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Thing is the 280 probably has the same volume of liquid the 480 does. It’s twice as thick.
 
Guess we’ll see! The loop is done now. Amazon delayed delivery of the thermal pads I’m waiting on so will just need to wait …


stunt cat
 
mk1_salami said:
Thing is the 280 probably has the same volume of liquid the 480 does. It’s twice as thick.
Click to expand...

what kind of rpm's do you run the fans at, being a thick rad you'd need fairly fast fans to move air through them, bad luck with the delay too, amazon not doing too good latley, some of my stuff has been delayed too :(
 
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might be worth a read through this, kinda old but shows roughtly what ek rads can cool and at what kind of rpms to expect fans to run at

www.ekwb.com

Radiators Part 1 - Thickness and FPI - ekwb.com

In the next few weeks, we are going to concentrate on radiators for a bit. There will be a series of blogs, all dedicated to radiators and the basics you need to know about them.
www.ekwb.com www.ekwb.com
www.ekwb.com

Radiators Part 2 – Performance - ekwb.com

The fundamental rule of radiator performance testing is to see how well the radiator cools the coolant. For us, computer geeks, the most widespread way of describing radiator performance is by using W/10°C, or in other words, Watts per 10 Delta T (sometimes K is used instead of ΔT). To make it...
www.ekwb.com www.ekwb.com
www.ekwb.com

Radiators Part 3 - Small and thick or slim and big? - ekwb.com

Time to continue the story about radiators for liquid cooling. We have covered the basics about radiators in the Part 1 blog, and in Part 2 we even showed some charts. Part 2 clarified things about radiator performance, how radiator performance is expressed and how do we read radiator...
www.ekwb.com www.ekwb.com

just looked up your case and wouldn't you know it, a 480mm rad can fit in the roof and a 280mm should fit in the front, see what its like after the rebuild, if its still hot running look at swaping the rads so the 480 is at the top and the 280 is in the front, try and get the gpu and cpu to go to the 480 and then use the 280 as extra cooling.
 
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Used one of the multi purpose plates that come with the fractal case to drill a hole into and mount a nice fill port. I always fancied one but never got round to drilling a hole in the case. This way, the case structure is not affected and the plate can slide left and right on the fan mounts, allowing perfect alignment with the reservoir below. Quite pleased with it.


Relocating the rad outlet to the top and this fill tube lost me a top 120mm exhaust fan but it’s a trade off I guess.

Of course when the top facia of the case is clipped in, you wouldn’t even know it’s there.




 
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That should also make bleeding air out easier
And when draining
Should help prevent air locks
By loosening the g 1/4 stop on the fill port
Similar to why I use multiport radiators
Though mines not as elegant as your use of that plate
I just step drilled through part of the top of the case
Same thing though can't see it once the case tops on
 
mk1_salami said:
Used one of the multi purpose plates that come with the fractal case to drill a hole into and mount a nice fill port. I always fancied one but never got round to drilling a hole in the case. This way, the case structure is not affected and the plate can slide left and right on the fan mounts, allowing perfect alignment with the reservoir below. Quite pleased with it.

Click to expand...

FWIW the hole above it is the one that FD provided for the purpose. The EK-AF FillPort G1/4 fits it.
 
I wondered what that was for. It would have been ideal and I guess I could use the corsair one there but would require a large washer to stop it falling through the hole.
 
mk1_salami said:
I wondered what that was for. It would have been ideal and I guess I could use the corsair one there but would require a large washer to stop it falling through the hole.
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You use a bulkhead fitting for it
Don't need a washer
I assumed you made your own to have it
In a more convenient position
 
I think what you have done is fine, I just thought I'd mention it. I chose the 7XL because it had the best rad fitting options out of the cases which would fit on my desk (I have a height and width restriction). I have the front rad in the intake path and the top and rear rads in the exhaust path. But I wanted to have the best internal airflow possible so didn't want the common solution of putting the pump/reservoir in the way. My pumps are mostly out of the way at the bottom of the case on the same level as the PSU, and I have an EK flat reservoir in that space to the right of the front rad (I needed to make up a bracket to hold it there). Whilst I'm glad that I got the 360 version for the extra capacity whilst filling, using that fill hole wasn't as great as I hoped. I thought I had done a great job when I managed to use a selection of adaptors to plumb the EK fill port directly to the reservoir, but it includes a 90 degree bend. As a result it can easily get airlocked when I try to fill it!

Having written that, I see that your plumbing is similar - I hope yours doesn't suffer the same problem!
 
I can live with slow - its the risk of overflow that is my biggest regret!

BTW @mk1_salami - if you do have the same problem then you might try my solution: Get a piece of narrow tubing and force it down the fill hole and around the bends to let air out as you fill. I used some electrical sleeving - the type that is put over the cpc (aka earth) wire in mains cable connections.
 
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You guys scared me with the 90s on the fill tube. Ideally I'd go straight up, but I'd need to cut the case structure so the fill port is accessible. Instead, I did 2x 45 degree bends would should be more free flowing than the fittings.


 
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