*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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Autoglym Polar Seal

Spray and rinse top wash. Does what it says on the tin. Kind of easy and quick to apply. Instant hydrophobic effect was noticeable.

Time will tell how long it will last.

Not safe to use near soft top fabric or on windows. As such would not buy.

Received my bottle of Polar Seal in the post yesterday and have just finished washing the car. Not much more to add to what you said, although I think maybe dismissing it because it cant be used on soft tops or windows (actually only windscreens, presumably because of wiper smear) is a bit harsh. After all, this is essentially meant to replace a wax or sealant, and surely the same can restrictions can be said of those? And I guess most people who've gone to the effort of buying a snow foam lance will probably be the kind of people to finish off by cleaning the windscreen with glass cleaner anyway.

I was aiming to be critical of it, but it really does seem to be an excellent product. I just pre-washed, washed, waxed and dried the car in under 90 minutes. I'll admit to not being the most diligent car washer - usually by the time I've washed and dried the car, I'm already tired and dreading the waxing/sealing stage, and I often either just skip it completely, or end up missing parts of the car. So if this product is durable enough that I can just given it another going over every 1-2 months after a hand wash, then I wouldn't be surprised if I stopped bothering with wax - especially as spraying it through the lance also means I'm less likely to miss nooks and crannies that I would usually overlook when waxing with Collonite. I even managed to dress the tyres in that time - a step I often overlook because I just want to get the car waxed and pack away. Being able to essentially wax the car in the "wash" stage means I'll be less likely to overlook the finishing touches.

I noticed that the car was much easier to dry as well - for the first time I was able to truly dry a panel just by laying the towel on it for a few seconds, and whereas I usually find my wing mirrors harbouring water spots even after a thorough dry, they seemed clear when I'd finished just now. I'm contemplating the Race glaze filter as well now, as we live in a very hard water area, and that would make it even easier and quicker.

Well done, Autoglym :)
 
I think maybe dismissing it because it cant be used on soft tops or windows (actually only windscreens, presumably because of wiper smear) is a bit harsh.

Other products dont have the same issues though and can be used safely around soft tops and windscreens. So I agree it may be a bit harsh, but in todays car cleaning competition you have to be on form.

How much is one of those? What do you do with it?

one two or three hundred notes, The £200 one is best bang for buck, and basically sits between your tap and hose.
 
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Other products dont have the same issues though and can be used safely around soft tops and windscreens. So I agree it may be a bit harsh, but in todays car cleaning competition you have to be on form.

Fair enough. The other waxes and sealants I'd generally use can't be applied quickly and easily through a lance, so it didn't strike me as much of a downside. Even if I did still own a soft top, I don't think I'd be put off using it.

Just walked past the car earlier and ran a knuckle over the paintwork...it feels very smooth and glossy to the touch. Certainly feels like it would when use with a traditional wax. I'm now hoping it rains just so I can watch it bead :p
 
Received my bottle of Polar Seal in the post yesterday and have just finished washing the car. Not much more to add to what you said, although I think maybe dismissing it because it cant be used on soft tops or windows (actually only windscreens, presumably because of wiper smear) is a bit harsh. After all, this is essentially meant to replace a wax or sealant, and surely the same can restrictions can be said of those? And I guess most people who've gone to the effort of buying a snow foam lance will probably be the kind of people to finish off by cleaning the windscreen with glass cleaner anyway.

I was aiming to be critical of it, but it really does seem to be an excellent product. I just pre-washed, washed, waxed and dried the car in under 90 minutes. I'll admit to not being the most diligent car washer - usually by the time I've washed and dried the car, I'm already tired and dreading the waxing/sealing stage, and I often either just skip it completely, or end up missing parts of the car. So if this product is durable enough that I can just given it another going over every 1-2 months after a hand wash, then I wouldn't be surprised if I stopped bothering with wax - especially as spraying it through the lance also means I'm less likely to miss nooks and crannies that I would usually overlook when waxing with Collonite. I even managed to dress the tyres in that time - a step I often overlook because I just want to get the car waxed and pack away. Being able to essentially wax the car in the "wash" stage means I'll be less likely to overlook the finishing touches.

I noticed that the car was much easier to dry as well - for the first time I was able to truly dry a panel just by laying the towel on it for a few seconds, and whereas I usually find my wing mirrors harbouring water spots even after a thorough dry, they seemed clear when I'd finished just now. I'm contemplating the Race glaze filter as well now, as we live in a very hard water area, and that would make it even easier and quicker.

Well done, Autoglym :)

I just can’t believe how easy it is to apply. I put HD wax on my bonnet and I honestly can’t tell the difference between the other panels that have polar seal on (and to think how much effort waxing is in comparison). Washing it for the second time the dirt flies off.

Other products dont have the same issues though and can be used safely around soft tops and windscreens. So I agree it may be a bit harsh, but in todays car cleaning competition you have to be on form.

I haven’t come across any that are as easy to use, in a lance and that are as effective. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

one two or three hundred notes, The £200 one is best bang for buck, and basically sits between your tap and hose.

That isn’t too bad actually. What is it called?

Fair enough. The other waxes and sealants I'd generally use can't be applied quickly and easily through a lance, so it didn't strike me as much of a downside. Even if I did still own a soft top, I don't think I'd be put off using it.

Just walked past the car earlier and ran a knuckle over the paintwork...it feels very smooth and glossy to the touch. Certainly feels like it would when use with a traditional wax. I'm now hoping it rains just so I can watch it bead :p

Just pressure washing it off is hilarious enough to watch. We had the heavy rain showers this week and the water flew off the car.
 
That was quick! I'm pretty sure it's supposed to last a couple months. It's not an every week thing.

I think I over used it, well, I really dislike the nozzle, it spray a very fine mist and out in the open a lot of the time the wind just blows it away! Most of it went to waste...
 
Alright chaps. Looking for a bit of advice/chat regarding tomorrow's planned events. I'll do my best to keep it as brief as possible, but:

tldr; old car I want to sell, pretty poor state but mechanically sound. Aiming to get as good a finish as I can, bearing in mind the car is only worth about £700 at best.

I got the car from my Mum about 5 years ago, she bought it new in 2003. A Seat Ibiza. It's actually a great wee car to drive, but is of the age where maintaining it long term isn't worthwhile. It'll still be a good wee runaround for someone, so I want to do the best bang-for-buck detail on it. The interior is going to be an absolute chore, but I'm aiming for presentable in that department, not hyper detailed. It is full of dog hair. The exterior is tougher. There is one element I cannot deal with, which is the rusting front wheel arches. I simply don't have the equipment nor experience to tackle that. There are other elements that I could potentially deal with, such as paint chips and swirlys; I don't feel it's worth the effort tbh. It also looks like the flying animal equivalent of Dresden for some reason. They seem to be more attracted to crappy old cars - who knows why.

Also, I should mention the conditions I'll be working under. This will take place out on the street in front of my house. Fairly quiet street with some traffic, and occasional foot traffic. Weather is predicted to be mostly dry, sunny spells, but only reaching about 12°C; no issues there. I'll be using a Karcher K2 Full Control, and a Pro Kleen foam lance, amongst other things. Also going to have to take a quick trip to Halfords for a tyre-style brush, and an EZ type brush.

Interior:

Remove all items, floor mats
Quick vacuum of ceiling, seats, dashboard, door pockets
Thorough vacuum of areas of dog hair and general crap accumulation using Vikan interior brush
Clean down dashboard, centre console, and doors with AM Detail APC
Half-hearted shampoo of fabric and mats using Autoglym Interior Shampoo
Interior glass using Autoglym Fast Glass
Finish surfaces with...you guessed it...Autoglym Rubber/Vinyl/Plastic Protect whatever.

Edit: Vacuum boot also

Hopefully will take no more than 3 hours.

Exterior:

Pre-blast
AMC Detail APC on the wheels, tyres, bird poop, and general bug splatters... Agitate where necessary, and let sit shortly
Blast
BH Auto Wheel on wheels (including alloy in boot; tyre illegal)... Agitate
Rinse
Pre-soak with Autoglym Polar Blast
Blast
Decontaminate with Auto Wheel* and clay bar**
Rinse
Hand wash with Polar Wash (1 rinse bucket with grit guard)
Rinse
Apply Polar Seal and dry with microfibres
Windshield with Fast Glass
Dry glass
Dirtbusters Super Cera wax on the windscreen. Maybe two coats if I'm feeling generous.

* I know that Korrosol is the product intended for bodywork, but I don't have it, and I've seen enough Youtube videos to not be concerned.

** I plan on using the Auto Wheel as a 'lubricant' for this stage. Again, not best practice, but the clearcoat isn't in the best shape anyway. I think I can save time by combining the two processes.

Does that seem like a reasonable process? Would be keen to hear opinions and suggestions. I'd also be keen to hear suggestions on the tyre situation; is it worthwhile getting a set of cheap-as-chips tyres on (and an alingment), and selling in 'perfect' condition? Or should I just sell with the 'requires 2 new tyres' statement?

Many thanks
 
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I'd just go damp cloth but apc will do!

I think I'll go somewhere in the middle by just using APC and wiping clean with a damp cloth. :)

Edit: Probably take a brush to the underside of the bonnet though!

Water the auto wheels down 1:1 with water and you have Korrosol near enough.

Thanks for the pointer. I had considered that, but I'll be applying directly after rinsing anyway, so thought that'd probably have the same effect?
 
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