The Climbing Thread

mid_gen · 24 Jun 2021 at 11:45

Guest2 said:
MCL is a ligament in the knee isnt it that connect the shin and thigh bone... sounds painful.
I was so out of shape after lockdown but back into it now and starting to feel and look better. My back changed shape over lockdown and looked all sloughy, now it's more upright. Climbing, swimming and a couple of cardio sessions a week plus better diet and not as much drinking.
Lockdown I would be in the house most of the day sat down then went for a walk to the shops. Takeaways / semi healthy food but also too many beers / gins out of boredom

Yeah it's the ligament on the inside of the knee. Had someone land on the side of my knee playing rugby, my fault for trying to settle in a new place by playing contact sports at my age

Feels rough having your leg feeling like it's not attached properly!

Had a good physio appointment yesterday though, she says the ligament is healed now, the residual pain will fade, just needs some strength work, so I'm heading to the climbing gym this evening to test it out. Worst case I can do some hangboarding and campusing....but I think it should be ok to do straightforward stuff, drop-knees and stuff can wait.

If it's OK this session, I'm getting booked onto the first lead/trad climbing course I can find. I'm so desperately bored of bouldering on my own for the last year and half since moving back to the UK. Everyone is into trad here, and I don't fancy learning from randoms, want some proper tuition to get started, then will get out to join some clubs.

I'm not *that* out of shape, I always eat well. 6'2" and 74kg atm. I've noticed my upper body muscle mass has noticeably dropped off and am generally less toned. Going to go nuts as soon as I can regularly gym climb again.

mid_gen · 25 Jun 2021 at 08:55

I climbed! Knee is still a bit sore, but it functions correctly and doesn't bend in ways it shouldn't.

I felt about a stone heavier though, must be the lost muscle mass as I haven't gained any significant weight....and the skins on my fingertips was trashed in an hour....but so good to get back on the wall.

Going to go an get my trad courses sorted out....

Guest2 · 25 Jun 2021 at 11:04

Nice

Out of shape at 6' 2 and 74kg

I'm 5' 8 and 88kg!

Street · 25 Jun 2021 at 17:39

mid_gen said:
If it's OK this session, I'm getting booked onto the first lead/trad climbing course I can find. I'm so desperately bored of bouldering on my own for the last year and half since moving back to the UK. Everyone is into trad here, and I don't fancy learning from randoms, want some proper tuition to get started, then will get out to join some clubs.

I can highly recommend Rob Johnson if he's got any availability. His company is Expedition Guide, based in Snowdonia. I've used him a couple times years ago and was planning on booking my ML with him as well.
I've been getting my trad head back on recently. I'd not done much at the start of the year because of the weather and it's surprising how much the head game goes when you aren't doing it regularly.

simc1978 · 25 Jun 2021 at 23:56

touch said:
Went bouldering today - first time climbing in a little over 4 months. Strength doesn't seem to be effected much by the long downtime, finger strength for crimps as well as general arm/shoulder/core strength still feels good. Endurance is much lower as well as skin toughness - didn't take long on the rough sandstone to rip my fingertips up.
Still a great day to be out climbing. Our gyms don't open until next week but I can't wait to get back to the climbing wall now.

Where is that, looks nice. Most my climbing has been on plastic this year.

touch · 26 Jun 2021 at 17:09

simc1978 said:
Where is that, looks nice. Most my climbing has been on plastic this year.

It's the Celtic Jumble area at Torridon. Lots of great boulders there but mostly too difficult for me - I'm still fairly new to climbing.
Those photos were from a few months ago, it'll be midge hell up there now unless you can get a windy day.

simc1978 · 27 Jun 2021 at 22:35

touch said:
It's the Celtic Jumble area at Torridon. Lots of great boulders there but mostly too difficult for me - I'm still fairly new to climbing.
Those photos were from a few months ago, it'll be midge hell up there now unless you can get a windy day.

Ah, that's actually further from me than Fontainebleau, the Scots border may be easier to cross in these times though

mid_gen · 28 Jun 2021 at 08:27

We can dream. I'd love to drive down to Font to catch up with my friends on the continent for a week around October time, but I have a feeling travel is still going to be a problem.

But, I did manage a full hour and a half bouldering yesterday, pushed my knee a bit more on some V5s, seemed to be pretty good.

Street said:
I can highly recommend Rob Johnson if he's got any availability. His company is Expedition Guide, based in Snowdonia. I've used him a couple times years ago and was planning on booking my ML with him as well.
I've been getting my trad head back on recently. I'd not done much at the start of the year because of the weather and it's surprising how much the head game goes when you aren't doing it regularly.

Cheers, had a look, quite tempting to do his 5-day Learn to Lead course. Fair bit of cash, but 2:1 for a full five days is pretty good value.

Sadly all booked up for this year, doh

Probably going to go with the Peak Climbing School, they do a 2-day, and a 3-day that cover the same stuff roughly, although 1:4. Less than an hour from me too.

Steven Rimmington · 28 Jun 2021 at 10:35

Started watching a lot of magnus midtbø videos and have a real urgency to start climbing. The only problem is it looks like a sport where been quite skinny is key. Now I'm 5'9 around 210 pounds I have a feeling ill really struggle, looking to climb indoors and if possible get some help or some sort of beginner classes. Any recommendations in the Yorkshire area?

Street · 28 Jun 2021 at 11:01

Steven Rimmington said:
Started watching a lot of magnus midtbø videos and have a real urgency to start climbing. The only problem is it looks like a sport where been quite skinny is key. Now I'm 5'9 around 210 pounds I have a feeling ill really struggle, looking to climb indoors and if possible get some help or some sort of beginner classes. Any recommendations in the Yorkshire area?

Everyone has to start somewhere though!

Where I go, there are people of all shapes, sizes and abilities. Climbers are generally a friendly bunch and will remember how it was when they started so won't be judgemental. I haven't got any wall recommendations, but I know the bouldering wall I go to does a first steps course for beginners which is three sessions and I'd assume most places will do something similar.

Steven Rimmington · 28 Jun 2021 at 11:19

Street said:
Everyone has to start somewhere though! Where I go, there are people of all shapes, sizes and abilities. Climbers are generally a friendly bunch and will remember how it was when they started so won't be judgemental. I haven't got any wall recommendations, but I know the bouldering wall I go to does a first steps course for beginners which is three sessions and I'd assume most places will do something similar.

Hi thanks for that

climbing look like a great way to get fit and I enjoy been outdoors so hopefully it's something I can stick to! Bouldering looks great fun, I can manage pull ups so that's a good start ha! I take it you need good climbing shoes? Anything else needed for a beginner?

Street · 28 Jun 2021 at 11:41

They should have rental shoes and chalk you can borrow but the shoes are usually awful, badly fitting with crap rubber built to be hard wearing rather than sticky.

If you plan on keeping it up, it's definitely worth getting your own shoes. Don't buy into the myth of downsizing so much your feet hurt, buy something tight fitting but comfortable. I can wear all my shoes comfortably without pain and climb at low E grades and it's definitely not the shoes holding me back. Good shoes do make a difference, but being new, you're likely to trash them fairly quickly with poor footwork, especially indoors dragging your toes up the walls. The only other things you need are a chalk bucket, chalk and a brush! Bouldering can be done relatively cheaply, it's only when you start doing trad that it gets expensive.

Steven Rimmington · 28 Jun 2021 at 12:11

Street said:
They should have rental shoes and chalk you can borrow but the shoes are usually awful, badly fitting with crap rubber built to be hard wearing rather than sticky.

If you plan on keeping it up, it's definitely worth getting your own shoes. Don't buy into the myth of downsizing so much your feet hurt, buy something tight fitting but comfortable. I can wear all my shoes comfortably without pain and climb at low E grades and it's definitely not the shoes holding me back. Good shoes do make a difference, but being new, you're likely to trash them fairly quickly with poor footwork, especially indoors dragging your toes up the walls. The only other things you need are a chalk bucket, chalk and a brush! Bouldering can be done relatively cheaply, it's only when you start doing trad that it gets expensive.

Yes chalk and a bucket how did I forget that! I'll have a look at buying my own shoes. I don't like the idea of sharing shoes with people that don't wear socks :eek:

I'll just pick up a cheap pair to start. May sound daft but I guess clothing is also a big area. I guess shorts and a loose fitting shirt? I used to hit the gym hard but it gets boring really quickly so I stop and take long breaks, when your young climbing trees and walls were great fun so hoping this will bring my childhood back

touch · 28 Jun 2021 at 14:31

Steven Rimmington said:
I don't like the idea of sharing shoes with people that don't wear socks

That's normal. You don't wear socks with climbing shoes.

I started with this pair of shoes from decathlon (although they've gone up by £5 since I bought mine last year

). It's best to go to a store to try them on if you can. You don't want them to be painfully tight but you don't want any excess room in there either.

mid_gen · 28 Jun 2021 at 15:24

touch said:
That's normal. You don't wear socks with climbing shoes.

Not a strict rule, do whatever works for you. I prefer wearing trainer socks, gets a nice snug fit without being so prone to blisters, and keeps your shoes a bit cleaner and drier than just sweating into them.

Need some new shoes soon actually, my evolv nighthawks are nearly done. Torn between getting my trusty HiAngles resoled, or trying something new....to find that sweet spot between comfort and performance. Nighthawks are too flat and soft for hard boulders and tiny edges. The Evolv Geshido Lace looks tempting...

fez · 28 Jun 2021 at 16:22

Steven Rimmington said:
Started watching a lot of magnus midtbø videos and have a real urgency to start climbing. The only problem is it looks like a sport where been quite skinny is key. Now I'm 5'9 around 210 pounds I have a feeling ill really struggle, looking to climb indoors and if possible get some help or some sort of beginner classes. Any recommendations in the Yorkshire area?

You will be absolutely fine. Don't fall into the trap of thinking "i'll start when I lose some weight".

I don't know if you are a bit overweight or just stacked but you will be fine either way. Strength to weight is very important for climbing but you will still have just as much fun whatever your fitness. Its like basketball. It will probably be much easier if you are 7'0" tall but you won't have any more fun than the 5'6" guy.

Just start slow and focus on technique. As a man you tend to find it easier to haul your way up a climbing but try and resist the urge and make sure you use your legs and technique. Watch women climb. Its fun and you will learn more than watching the guys a lot of the time.

Street · 28 Jun 2021 at 17:27

mid_gen said:
The Evolv Geshido Lace looks tempting...

I'm an Evolv fanboy as they seem to fit my feet. I've got the Geshido Velcro, Supra, Shaman and Defys. I find the Geshidos are perfect for hard trad (by my standards) and they're a nice balance between the Supras and the Shamans as they're reasonably stiff and grippy. I use the Supras for big multi pitch routes as they're much stiffer and find the Shamans better for bouldering. I've worn the Geshidos for big multi pitch routes but because they aren't as stiff as the Supras my feet were aching by the end of the day.

mid_gen · 9 Jul 2021 at 15:41

Well, after doing a hike in the Peak District with the other half, my nagging questions like "wouldn't you rather go up and over these hill rather than just walking around"....have paid off. Got us both on a introduction to scrambling course in Ogwen valley in a couple of weeks. Got an unexpected bonus from work too so will be getting some decent camping gear finally.

I've desperate to get back into shape, so have been just punishing myself with an hour+ on the circuit wall 3 times a week before finishing up with some limit bouldering. Still not quite back before the MCL tear, but getting there.

mid_gen · 25 Jul 2021 at 12:57

Been a busy week, did a couple of long hikes/scrambles in the Peaks, camping in Edale. Then did a scrambling course on Tryfan in Snowdonia.

Other half seems to be successfully hooked at last, and is enjoying the bouldering having got over the initial pain barrier. Might finally have achieved the dream

Street · 25 Jul 2021 at 23:24

mid_gen said:
Then did a scrambling course on Tryfan in Snowdonia.

Nice one, which routes did you do?