The GTR is dead! Long live the cryptolambo!

Gibbo said:
Assume you drove the H then and assume you came away feeling how I did after driving a Hurracan RWD and AWD, very very capable, but zero challenge and you have to be going so fast to even start feeling somewhat challenged, at legal speeds it was just zero fun, unless your only in it for the posing and sound off game at which point it is exceptional but as a drivers car and a fun car at legal speeds the Hurracan is not.
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Not even that dude, just looking at it, there was nothing there that made me think "I want to own this car".
 
kindai said:
Not even that dude, just looking at it, there was nothing there that made me think "I want to own this car".
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Fair enough, I personally think the H looks awesome and sounds pretty epic too, I just love the sharp angles, it was the drive that really disappointed me, very Audi.
 
So have started ordering the parts for the yearly service.

So while at it decided to break down running costs.


Major service: £1200
6 new tyres (4 rear, 2 front) - £1100
Replacement of front diff seal - £600
Accumulator replacement - £500
New battery - £130
Total = £3530


Yes it has been quite expensive to keep on the road, but pending any failures this year:

Minor service: £500


I will re-run it on the dyno and send off another oil sample to millers to look for any loss in performance / anything in the oil to indicate an issue.

May also change out the brake pads, lines and fluid to something a bit more grabby as the current pads dont do well after some spirited driving.
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
To be honest those costs aren't that bad considering the car
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Well the accumulator and front diff seal, fair enough its getting on a bit now so parts like these are likely to need a refresh, but its going to be a one off cost really and there arent many other bits that can/will go wrong short of a catastrophic failure.

2 extra tyres, bad luck.

The next "big" job will be when the clutch goes, thats a 3k bill, but ill go get an e-gear snap after the service and see how its going, and the reading is really not accurate, people have reported the snap can go upto -50% before the clutch actually needs replacing. YMMV

At that point ill either stick a stock clutch in or consider a kevlar clutch from hi tech exotic, but I cant really justify the extra cost really as a stock clutch will last well past my ownership.
 
So after much looking around I decided on these Motek ST600 pads:

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The CoF is claimed to be 0.46-0.50μ upto 650 degrees, which incidentally makes them nearly identical to the RSC2 pads I ran on the ceramic discs, if so the stopping power should be fierce!

Also claimed to be low noise, and low dust, so lets see if it is as good as claimed. They cant be worse than these absolutely garbage yellowstuff pads currently in it.
 
kindai said:
So have started ordering the parts for the yearly service.

So while at it decided to break down running costs.


Major service: £1200
6 new tyres (4 rear, 2 front) - £1100
Replacement of front diff seal - £600
Accumulator replacement - £500
New battery - £130
Total = £3530


Yes it has been quite expensive to keep on the road, but pending any failures this year:

Minor service: £500


I will re-run it on the dyno and send off another oil sample to millers to look for any loss in performance / anything in the oil to indicate an issue.

May also change out the brake pads, lines and fluid to something a bit more grabby as the current pads dont do well after some spirited driving.
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Cheaper than running an N54 based BMW car! lol
 
daz said:
Seriously impressed how much you're doing yourself on this car! Kudos!
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If its anything like the Ferrari they are not complex, no special tools, everything is DIY friendly, only hard bit is engine placement means its good if your reasonably flexible, but brakes wise are same as any other car and probably easier if using a race style caliper so just punch out the brake caliper pins, remove pads, slot new pads in. :)
 
kindai said:
So after much looking around I decided on these Motek ST600 pads:

i.php


i.php



The CoF is claimed to be 0.46-0.50μ upto 650 degrees, which incidentally makes them nearly identical to the RSC2 pads I ran on the ceramic discs, if so the stopping power should be fierce!

Also claimed to be low noise, and low dust, so lets see if it is as good as claimed. They cant be worse than these absolutely garbage yellowstuff pads currently in it.
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So how are they ???
 
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