** The Official ASUS P5N-E SLI & Ultra 650i Thread **

Hesky82 said:
I ran 720mhz at 3-3-3-11 with my crucial 10th tenth anniversary with 2.2v vdimm and a dropped ldt multi to get it stable, now run 4-4-4-12 for anything over 850mhz which im running at the mo.
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Interesting, thanks. I run 667 at 4-4-4-12 for my 800 rated Geil
I thought about swapping in the Crucial Ballistix modules I have here at 3-3-3-12 but doubts about any the difference in real-world performance have meant I haven't bothered. Performance is more than fine as it is
 
steve258 said:
Any noticeable performance drop with the LDT @ 4 instead of 5??
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No. If you think about it, CAS4 to CAS3 is a 25% improvement and 5x LDT to 4x LDT is 20% worsening of performance, so it's actually faster, in theory.
 
WJA96 said:
Yes. You'll get loads of errors though if you're not running the right voltage and you may also experience difficulty if the LDT has been adjusted upwards. I think I ended up having to run mine at 4x to get the optimal overclock/timings combination.
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What is this LDT?

I've been running my Ballistix PC5300 ram at 4-4-4-12 800, I dont know if they are capable of lower timings at that, but I got to 1066Mhz at 5-5-5-15 but I experienced crashes at the stock voltage, would I need to raise the voltage? 1066Mhz 5-5-5-15 checked out ok in memtest86.
 
Well my P5N-E that was working for almost two months has finally lost it again. Froze while loading windows and that was the last she said.

PSU and graphics have both been changed since the last time it happened so I really don't think it's a problem with my hardware. Just a recurring hardware malfunction that seems to love me. Last night it was working fine but when I get home from 8 hours boring work (we haven't had internet there for 2 days!) I go to turn it on and this.. very annoyed. Back on my old Asrock. Really getting the hang of switching motherboards in and out. I think I could do it blindfolded.

Downloading the latest Ati 7.8 beta drivers and then it's back to wwiio. And the motherboard goes back to OCUK. Gonna give the shop a call tomorrow and ask for a P5K instead of the P5N-E. Atleast they work. I don't think they have much of a leg to stand on. The boards they send me don't do what they are supposed to (i.e. work). Both the boards are roughly the same price. If they refuse to do that then I'll have to consider my next move carefully. I'm sure they don't want to have to send someone over to Ireland to deal with me in person :)
 
Mine seems to be working fine, allthough you got me worried :p

Do I need to get more voltage on my ram to get it over 900 @ 4-4-4-12, 950 and my PC locks up, I wanted to try 3-3-3-12, maybe that is possible with a higher voltage, but how much higher, is it safe upping the voltage? I am using Crucial Ballistix PC5300.
 
You should ask in the ram section of the forum maybe Will. Ive had upto 2.2v without worrying about it but obviously it varies. My ram is always by the main air intake fans which helps I think.

This board is really solid imo. The only regular problem I get with it is it swaps hard drives order on me quite often. So I get a scary cannot boot message which is just solved by puting the proper drive back into order on the boot menu.

If you get any seemingly serious problem, take the bios battery out and leave it unplugged for an hour before you worry too much
 
Took the battery out and left it an hour, cycled the power button while plugged out then left it an hour plugged into the wall but turned off at the plug.

No luck. Exact same problem as before.
 
That looks a very good clock to me, what volts are you using. Is that water cooling?

Darg - sorry to hear that. I would only suggest removing all components bar the cpu. Also cables, Ive had something as innocuous as an ide cable cause a 'dead' mobo
 
silversurfer said:
That looks a very good clock to me, what volts are you using. Is that water cooling?

Darg - sorry to hear that. I would only suggest removing all components bar the cpu. Also cables, Ive had something as innocuous as an ide cable cause a 'dead' mobo
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Cooling is Retail Heatsink. Volts are 1.35v in bios but the P5N-E's Vdroop takes it below 1.3v during load. This is working with 4x1GB sticks of ram at 1T. My old E4300 would only work properly at 2T with 4 sticks (I though it was a mobo limitation but obviousely not).
 
Those temps cant be right if that is with a retail heatsink :confused:

For 3.2Ghz I need to have 1.45V, so it'll probs be 1.4V at load?, I dont get how to tell the vdroop, so with this mobo it must be safe to use 1.60V since its around 1.55V which I have it set for 3.4?
 
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willhub said:
Those temps cant be right if that is with a retail heatsink :confused:

For 3.2Ghz I need to have 1.45V, so it'll probs be 1.4V at load?, I dont get how to tell the vdroop, so with this mobo it must be safe to use 1.60V since its around 1.55V which I have it set for 3.4?
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You can monitor VDroop in Speedfan, the pencil mod on this mobo will negate all or very close to all of the VDroop. i have 1.6V running through my E6300 but im on fairly decent water, it was running fine on 1.57 but as temps arnt an issue i use 1.6V to be safe
 
pegasus1 said:
You can monitor VDroop in Speedfan, the pencil mod on this mobo will negate all or very close to all of the VDroop. i have 1.6V running through my E6300 but im on fairly decent water, it was running fine on 1.57 but as temps arnt an issue i use 1.6V to be safe
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Is the Pencil mod safe?, I rekon I can get 3.4Ghz stable if I can get the CPU to run safe at 1.6V set in bios
 
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