** The Official ASUS P5N-E SLI & Ultra 650i Thread **

Ive noticed the board doesnt like the MB temp above 45 or so. Since I reduced my fan speeds Ive neared this temp and encountered some unstabilty, pretty sure that is the cause since my cpu is at stock at present.

When I checked the SB it was as hot as the NB, not good
 
Thermaltake said:
Hey,

I cant seem to use 1T on this ram, tried 2.1v but the OCZ is only meant to be run at 1.9 - 2.1v, shall i try more volts to run it at 1T?

Or will this mobo not run 1T, i heard the c2d dont like 1T, is this true??

My Crucial Anni's run fine at 400MHz 1T.
 
Thermaltake said:
Hmm, this is odd then. My system is stable with 1.4vcore and 3.2. I need to tighten up my latencies because there sitting at 5-5-5-15 and 2T.

Shall i increase mem volts and NB volts to get the ram stable??

Unfortunately there isn't any other option but to try and increase voltages. Isn't your RAM rated 4-4-4-12 at 400MHz?
 
Does anyone know how accurate the vcore readings are when using programs like CPU-Z or asus probe. I had vcore set at 1.325 but the readings from the above were dropping down to 1.26 when stress testing using orthos. I found that orthos would fail after about 90 mins with only a modest overclock of 2.3 on my e6300. If i set my vcore to 1.4 would that account for the vcore drop especially under load thus allowing a greater overclock.
 
andyh said:
Does anyone know how accurate the vcore readings are when using programs like CPU-Z or asus probe. I had vcore set at 1.325 but the readings from the above were dropping down to 1.26 when stress testing using orthos. I found that orthos would fail after about 90 mins with only a modest overclock of 2.3 on my e6300. If i set my vcore to 1.4 would that account for the vcore drop especially under load thus allowing a greater overclock.

They are not very accurate at all. Are you using the +100mV option, as that will give you a boost to combat the Vdroop.
 
I have ended up setting vcore at 1.25 and using the +100mv option, CPU-Z reports a voltage of 1.28 however it is passing several hours of orthos. My concerns are that my temps are now up to 58 under load. I am getting a new case (Akasa Mirage) and a sycthe ninja so hopefully that will lower the temps to allow me to push the overclock further.
 
Help... lol

Just updated my BIOS to 0401 using the EZflash and now I cannot access my BIOS. I press <delete> and all I get is a blank screen until I hard reboot, boots into windows fine though.

What can I do? Reset CMOS? How do I do that then?
 
WJA96 said:
Down by the little LED there is a jumper to move across. Check the manual to be sure you get the right one. It's quite good though. 5 seconds and it's done.

Thanks again lol.

*sighs*

Yeah I got it now.

Does this happen everytime the BIOS is updated (or mem overclocked and failed?) Might have to pay ya to make me that switch on a plate thingy, such an arse getting to it.

[email protected] now just about to orthos it. 28°C now at Idle.
 
I find it easier to just attack the motherboard with a screwdriver to lever out the battery at the back, since it lines up with the empty space for a pci slot on my case.



100mhzthrottlewhydc1.png

Im but a bear of little brain but does anyone care to explain why the little conroe appears in such pain :p ie why is the dam thing throttling to 100mhz at low temps or is rmclock not showing it right :confused: Is that Eist?
 
silversurfer said:
I find it easier to just attack the motherboard with a screwdriver to lever out the battery at the back, since it lines up with the empty space for a pci slot on my case.

That's fine except when the contacts become slack and your battery is not making good contact anymore. The reset jumper is a far better option in my opinion.

silversurfer said:
Im but a bear of little brain but does anyone care to explain why the little conroe appears in such pain :p ie why is the dam thing throttling to 100mhz at low temps or is rmclock not showing it right :confused: Is that Eist?

The graph really does look like thermal throttling.

Are you overclocking or is it a 6400? If you are overclocking you should turn off the C1E and Speedstep in the BIOS. The other thing I would be wary of is your phrase 'low temps' when using ASUSprobe. ASUSProbe shows the socket temperature, not the core temperature. You need to use CoreTemp to get the real core temperature which will be significantly higher.
 
Thermaltake said:
Hey,

I cant seem to use 1T on this ram, tried 2.1v but the OCZ is only meant to be run at 1.9 - 2.1v, shall i try more volts to run it at 1T?

Or will this mobo not run 1T, i heard the c2d dont like 1T, is this true??

I'm still fiddling with my ocz memory but one thig I did notice last night was is that I couldn't boot if I set the memory to linked 1:1 at 475hz. If I set it to unlinked at 475 or linked - sync mode it was fine at 5,4,4,12 2T 2.25v.

Can anyone explain this?

I couldn't get it to work at 1T at this FSB so I need to experiment which is max fsb for 1T.

In terms of vdimm, this is from the OCZ site
**OCZ EVP (Extended Voltage Protection) is a feature that allows performance enthusiasts to use a VDIMM of 2.2V ± 5% without invalidating their OCZ Lifetime Warranty.

Let me know if you get anywhere with 1T before I have chance to look into it properly.
 
ArchAnGeL said:
...I did notice last night was is that I couldn't boot if I set the memory to linked 1:1 at 475hz. If I set it to unlinked at 475 or linked - sync mode it was fine at 5,4,4,12 2T 2.25v.

Can anyone explain this?

The most likely explanation is that when you went to unlinked, it rounded the FSB on the RAM downwards, hence it booted.

There is a definite 'gotcha' with the way the 'Asychronous RAM' feature is implemented. You can set any speed you like, but when it reboots it calculates a divider (based on 15ths I think) and set the FSB on the RAM accordingly. If you key the FSB in rather than use the + and - keys it does the recalculation there and then so you can see what the actual FSB will become.

Also - the CPU QFSB is sensitive to the last digit. In many cases it will boot if the last number is 2, 4 or 8, but it will not boot if the QFSB ends in a 0. This is particularly the case over 1600 QFSB.

You need to play about with it in my experience.
 
WJA96 said:
That's fine except when the contacts become slack and your battery is not making good contact anymore. The reset jumper is a far better option in my opinion.



The graph really does look like thermal throttling.

Are you overclocking or is it a 6400? If you are overclocking you should turn off the C1E and Speedstep in the BIOS. The other thing I would be wary of is your phrase 'low temps' when using ASUSprobe. ASUSProbe shows the socket temperature, not the core temperature. You need to use CoreTemp to get the real core temperature which will be significantly higher.


Thats a good point but I hope not to have to do it that often. I have way too many cables coiled up where that jumper switch is. I thought there was some deal about pressing and holding the power and reset switches together..

Rmclock seems to correlate better with coretemp then the asus probe so I presume they are going on the same cpu sensors.

C1E and speedstep seem to be disabled, I was overclocking but its at pretty much at stock for the moment. I was just checking temps and noticed it doing that when it really shouldnt imo, I dont notice any drop in performance normally though

thrzq7.jpg

So is eist enabled or disabled there, ermm
:confused:
I changed the multipler to 6 in the bios and it always seems adjustable with crystalcpuid
 
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It's very difficult to say as software like Rightmark allow you to turn the various CPU features on and off. By using these programs (eg. Crystal) you introduce extra complexity into the situation.

When it's just me, the BIOS and the hardware, then I know where I am :)
 
Right, got my rig up and running finally - E6300 with Tuniq Tower and 2 Gb OCZ Plat Rev 2 (thread with pics forthcoming). Leaving her at stock for now to let her bed in a bit, then come tonight i'll start twisting the screws a little :) Right now with the fan in the Tuniq going at full whack, on idle i'm sitting on core temps of 28 on core1 and 30 on core0 and under loading through orthos it pushes it up to 30+36. It looks like the batch number on the chip was: L630A774 - Does this all bode well? :)
 
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