*****The Official Canon 5DMK3 Thread*****

And said:
Not that I want an argument over personal preferences but is there any need when you have control of shutter/aperture? Should be the same case when you control the ISO as well, no EC.
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Obviously I have no user experience of the 5D3, but I found auto ISO useful in manual mode on the 7D. I can set the aperture and shutter speed as I require and let the camera set the ISO. I'm shooting kids playing indoors in changing light sources, I want the shutter speed fixed to a minimum and the aperture is generally wide open to be honest. The 7D I liked to expose to the right when the ISO got 1600 and above, so being able to dial in +EC in this situation would be great. It's also useful when shooting BiF when you have different colour birds/backgrounds.
 
I wasn't referring to auto ISO and how it works/its uses, I was referring to EC. In manual mode you control the settings to over- or underexpose.

To be fair I mainly shoot manual and meter regularly, starting with a base ISO of 400. I very rarely use auto ISO.
 
And said:
I wasn't referring to auto ISO and how it works/its uses, I was referring to EC. In manual mode you control the settings to over- or underexpose.

To be fair I mainly shoot manual and meter regularly, starting with a base ISO of 400. I very rarely use auto ISO.
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Not if your using Auto ISO. And manual metering is too time consuming in inconsistent/changing light for me.
 
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And said:
I wasn't referring to auto ISO and how it works/its uses, I was referring to EC. In manual mode you control the settings to over- or underexpose.

To be fair I mainly shoot manual and meter regularly, starting with a base ISO of 400. I very rarely use auto ISO.
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Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. With the 7D if I was using Auto-ISO in manual mode I would have liked to be able to set +EC pretty much all of the time. When shooting birds in flight, again I want to fix my aperture and shutter speed and use Auto-ISO, the metering will quite often under\over expose depending on the colour of the bird or background. Being able to quickly dial in +\-EC is handy. Same goes for shooting sport under floodlights.

Yes I can use other modes, but personally I don't see the point of using Auto-ISO in some situations and not being able to use +\-EC. Nikon provide it, Leica do... If it's a provided feature then lets get it working as well as it can?

jonneymendoza said:
not a problem, just spot meter the the target and recompose. thats what i do my 400d.

Also, whats "exposing to the right?" You mean expose to the lightest part of a scene?
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I pretty much always use off centre AF points, it's nice having that linked to the metering as well. It's not much of an issue with moving subjects when using back button focus, I've just got used to having this feature :)
 
jonneymendoza said:
Also, whats "exposing to the right?" You mean expose to the lightest part of a scene?
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I believe expose to the right & expose to the left (ETTR & ETTL) is in basic terms simply under or over exposing the shot intentionally.

Why you would do this however I have no idea and is probably better explained by someone less nooby than me.
 
jonneymendoza said:
not a problem, just spot meter the the target and recompose. thats what i do my 400d.

Also, whats "exposing to the right?" You mean expose to the lightest part of a scene?
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If your going to do that, you will be served just as well with a 5Dii.
The whole point of 61 AF points (or even just a handful of decent outer-points), is that you don't have to focus re-compose.

If you subject isn't close, AF isn't accurate enough at wide apertures.
There is allot more delay from locking focus to releasing the shutter, so if you or subject moves, AF will be off.
Framing is less accurate
Slows your photography down unless your only taking a single shot, or inhibits your ability to time the shot...
 
An Exception said:
If your going to do that, you will be served just as well with a 5Dii.
The whole point of 61 AF points (or even just a handful of decent outer-points), is that you don't have to focus re-compose.

If you subject isn't close, AF isn't accurate enough at wide apertures.
There is allot more delay from locking focus to releasing the shutter, so if you or subject moves, AF will be off.
Framing is less accurate
Slows your photography down unless your only taking a single shot, or inhibits your ability to time the shot...
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Spot metering recompose is different to focus recompose when you use back button focus. I can lock metering with a half press on the shutter button and carry on focusing to my hearts content using the back button. When all is how I want it I hit the shutter button all the way and bob's your uncle, fanny's your aunt and all that malarky :)
 
An Exception said:
If your going to do that, you will be served just as well with a 5Dii.
The whole point of 61 AF points (or even just a handful of decent outer-points), is that you don't have to focus re-compose.

If you subject isn't close, AF isn't accurate enough at wide apertures.
There is allot more delay from locking focus to releasing the shutter, so if you or subject moves, AF will be off.
Framing is less accurate
Slows your photography down unless your only taking a single shot, or inhibits your ability to time the shot...
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So don't focus and recompose, just meter and recompose? That's what the AE-L option on the button is there for after all...

OR, as already said, lock metering on half shutter and use the AF-on button to trigger AF (which seems to be the generally preferred setup among pro sports photographers). I only bothered setting it up once when I shot some skiing but it worked a treat for that and I can see why they like it...
 
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Rojin said:
Spot metering recompose is different to focus recompose when you use back button focus. I can lock metering with a half press on the shutter button and carry on focusing to my hearts content using the back button. When all is how I want it I hit the shutter button all the way and bob's your uncle, fanny's your aunt and all that malarky :)
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well said. was about to post that
 
Rojin said:
Spot metering recompose is different to focus recompose when you use back button focus. I can lock metering with a half press on the shutter button and carry on focusing to my hearts content using the back button. When all is how I want it I hit the shutter button all the way and bob's your uncle, fanny's your aunt and all that malarky :)
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I see, still it must be pretty tedious and slow to meter for every frame though...
 
bigredshark said:
So don't focus and recompose, just meter and recompose? That's what the AE-L option on the button is there for after all...

OR, as already said, lock metering on half shutter and use the AF-on button to trigger AF (which seems to be the generally preferred setup among pro sports photographers). I only bothered setting it up once when I shot some skiing but it worked a treat for that and I can see why they like it...
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I personally don't like using the AE-L or AF-On button ect. Though sometimes it comes in useful for me doing 'Brenizer Method' type shot's or something out of the ordinary.

Personally for portrait photography I can't think of anything simpler or faster than being able place an af point over someones eye, not even bother with a half press and instead just do a full press and the camera meters, locks AF and releases the shutter almost immediately...
 
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ManCuBuS said:
I believe expose to the right & expose to the left (ETTR & ETTL) is in basic terms simply under or over exposing the shot intentionally.

Why you would do this however I have no idea and is probably better explained by someone less nooby than me.
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The idea is that the digital sensor captures the most amount of data at the far right (looking at the histogram) so therefore you intentionally over expose without clipping and then in post processing bring the exposure back down. This gives more detail in the shadows with less noise.
 
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I don't believe so but I'm not that familiar with the 400D. I'd imagine the hacked firmware enables the spot metering that the hardware supports? If the 5D3 has the hardware but it's just been disabled then... I know that there were custom firmwares for the 5D mark II but on the 7D it wasn't available, so Canon may have a way of blocking it?
 
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