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It would make sense about it being trapped with the die so it can heat itself up really quickly.
Oh one question, which voltage is the real voltage, the one I set in the bis (1.3v) or the one that appears on cpuz (1.248v)?
Edit - How high can temps go and be safe?
CPUZ is the real voltage the CPU is getting, the voltage will drop under load which is a pain as under load you actually need more volts to run stable when the opposite is happening.CPUZ will be the more accurate I'd say, as it's reading from an internal sensor AFAIK. The 1.3v in the BIOS is what your board is aiming to supply, but they always seem to be slightly short... possibly intentionally erring on the side of caution.
I would try 8x400Mhz = 3.2Ghz at default voltage with the memory at 1:1
CPUZ is the real voltage the CPU is getting, the voltage will drop under load which is a pain as under load you actually need more volts to run stable when the opposite is happening.
I doubt the difference in load temperature is because of a different case or is the radiator now in a totally different position?before:- old thermaltake case
idle 35 'c
load 60 'c
after :- antec 1200 case
idle 20'c
load 40 'c
Set it to 1.45Vthe only problem is i have very bad vdrop. In the bios i set it to 1.4v but when the cpu at 100 % the volts drop to 1.328v any buddy know how to get round this safely so i can push it more.
1.4V is the max safe voltage but the worst that is going to happen is that the CPU dies so if you can afford a new one if it breaks you can go higher.i was under the impression 1.4 volts was max voltage for everyday use or is it different at these temps.
Btw i moved the double rad to the front of the case with fans pushing the air instead of before where the fans where pulling the air. I have also remove a single 120mm rad which seem to make a difference.