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The Pascal GTX 1080 Ti Owners Thread

It was very weird running my 980 Ti Kingpin on the Superposition bench the other day. When I checked the clockspeed it was totally flat from start to finish despite the temperature rising, it maintained a rock solid 1560/2102 which is not bad for an air cooled 980 Ti on stock volts.

I think we have got too used to the 10 series cards clocks moving all over the place.

My 980Ti was on water and Bios unlocked and was the same, the clocks were constant from start to finish.
 
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Good to know.:)

I think NVidia have been a little disappointing with boost clocks on the 10 series.
Don't know. a lot don't overclock so its doing it for them. But for enthusiasts who like max performance and to squeeze as much as they can out of their hardware its abit frustrating. I still think nvidia was abit harsh on the power limit though but i guess that was for efficency reasons and temps. Soon as you increase power limit the efficency doesn't seem so great.
 
I've tried everything from under/overvolting to under/overclocking and everything sets off the Voltage Limit.

I contacted EVGA and they basically said it was normal and that its the silicone lottery, the other two cards I have used didnt do this so its been bugging the hell out of me, I think I am just going to box it up and return it.

What are you using to control your loop, how much rad have you got? The highest temp my card ever gets to is 43c, its normally sat at 41c depending on what game I am playing. Water temps are a max of 36c.

Its a tricky one, it is a bit of a lottery and I assume yours is an FE too, it has put me off buying another FE (used to watercool classifieds/hofs e.t.c), but for the money they're not bad and even with their issues they are still good price to performance ratio and not far off AIB cards in general. What kind of clocks you able to reach on it?
At stock clocks/mem I hit voltage limit unless set to 100%, at 42 c I then hit voltage limit again - don't even see power limit in the equation unless trying to push it, so mine is definitely temp related I believe (yes, power limit is still there but not before voltage/temp in games).
XSPC D5 vario - think about 4/5 setting, XSPC EK 240 rad (push/pull corsair SP), XSPC EK 360 rad (push corsair SP), Ek cpu block in a Corsair air 540 case with evga 1300 g2. Wanted to change my tim from mx-4 to thermal grizzly and the pads also to thermal grizzly but they don't seem to have one wide enough for the vrm's (ek use 24mm wide grizzly only 20). Going to take my rig apart and soak the rads in vinegar soon and add a spare d5 I got lying around in series (redundancy as much as anything as they are getting on a bit now). This setup had an r9 295x2 running at very low 50's so I'm hoping its just the rads a little blocked and not that ive pushed my card too hard in benching. Just dug out my old XSPC RX 360 V.2 from another build which I was hopefully going to use instead of the EK 360 but the fins have been dinked badly in storage:(
 
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Good to know.:)

I think NVidia have been a little disappointing with boost clocks on the 10 series.

It's swings and roundabouts, would you rather them just clock them to something like 1500mhz rock solid out of the box just so you can feel all warm and nice about turning the slider up to 2ghz?

Personally I'm not bothered whether I do it or whether it boosts close to it's max OC out of the box, I would never judge a card based on something as fickle as that. If anything it's good that each GPU is able to boost as high as it can based on it's temp, this means everyone - regardless of their set up - is getting the most from their GPU based on their system.
 
Having a few issues applying an OC to my EVGA 1080ti SC Black.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/evga...i-express-graphics-card-11g-p4-gx-313-ea.html
Using either Precision or Afterburner causes Heaven and Firestrike to immediately crash. If I try to launch a game it crawls....
What's going on ? When stock it's bossting to 1938 no probs.
Try using gpu z to see whats going on using sensor tab but also use the 3d render in gpu z to see what clocks its boosting to. Id be supprised if it cant boost to atleast 2ghz. Also what sort of overclock have you got on your cpu? For some reason i had to take my cpu up a notch voltage wise because gta 5 and dues ex seemed to crash with 1080ti in my system. Now it doesnt with the voltage bump.
 
Its a tricky one, it is a bit of a lottery and I assume yours is an FE too, it has put me off buying another FE (used to watercool classifieds/hofs e.t.c), but for the money they're not bad and even with their issues they are still good price to performance ratio and not far off AIB cards in general. What kind of clocks you able to reach on it?
At stock clocks/mem I hit voltage limit unless set to 100%, at 42 c I then hit voltage limit again - don't even see power limit in the equation unless trying to push it, so mine is definitely temp related I believe (yes, power limit is still there but not before voltage/temp in games).
XSPC D5 vario - think about 4/5 setting, XSPC EK 240 rad (push/pull corsair SP), XSPC EK 360 rad (push corsair SP), Ek cpu block in a Corsair air 540 case with evga 1300 g2. Wanted to change my tim from mx-4 to thermal grizzly and the pads also to thermal grizzly but they don't seem to have one wide enough for the vrm's (ek use 24mm wide grizzly only 20). Going to take my rig apart and soak the rads in vinegar soon and add a spare d5 I got lying around in series (redundancy as much as anything as they are getting on a bit now). This setup had an r9 295x2 running at very low 50's so I'm hoping its just the rads a little blocked and not that ive pushed my card too hard in benching. Just dug out my old XSPC RX 360 V.2 from another build which I was hopefully going to use instead of the EK 360 but the fins have been dinked badly in storage:(

I always buy reference cards and block them, mainly as I buy on launch as I cant wait for the specialised cards to be released along with their blocks. I am a bit inpatient. :D

My first card will run at 2088/12,300 on stock voltages, I haven't messed with a custom curve as of yet but I will give it a punt at some point to see if I can get it over 2100Mhz, I also havent pushed the ram any further so I might be able to squeeze a touch more there. To be honest I am really happy with the clocks so any more will be a bonus.

This second card behaves the same as yours in that it never sees the Power Limit kick in, only the Voltage Limit actually thats all it ever says Voltage Limit 1. I have emailed EVGA and will be sending it back though and I will just keep the first card.

You have plenty of rad and should be able to run at lower temps than 50c, changing TIM should yield a few degrees as paste like Gelid Extreme or Grizzly will be an improvement on MX4. I have a fair collection of different TIM and Gelid and Grizzly are my favs with the tip of the hat going to Grizzly mainly due to it being easier to spread, its really nice stuff.

Your rads might also need a bit of dusting if it hasnt been done in a while, Ive knocked off a few degrees in the past due to dust build up. If you haven't already got an Aquaero then I really would recommend one along with a water temps sensor, then you can link all the fans up and control the speed according to the water temp. An Aquaero is hugely useful in controlling a loop.
 
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I always buy reference cards and block them, mainly as I buy on launch as I cant wait for the specialised cards to be released along with their blocks. I am a bit inpatient. :D

My first card will run at 2088/12,300 on stock voltages, I haven't messed with a custom curve as of yet but I will give it a punt at some point to see if I can get it over 2100Mhz, I also havent pushed the ram any further so I might be able to squeeze a touch more there. To be honest I am really happy with the clocks so any more will be a bonus.

This second card behaves the same as yours in that it never sees the Power Limit kick in, only the Voltage Limit actually thats all it ever says Voltage Limit 1. I have emailed EVGA and will be sending it back though and I will just keep the first card.

You have plenty of rad and should be able to run at lower temps than 50c, changing TIM should yield a few degrees as paste like Gelid Extreme or Grizzly will be an improvement on MX4. I have a fair collection of different TIM and Gelid and Grizzly are my favs with the tip of the hat going to Grizzly mainly due to it being easier to spread, its really nice stuff.

Your rads might also need a bit of dusting if it hasnt been done in a while, Ive knocked off a few degrees in the past due to dust build up. If you haven't already got an Aquaero then I really would recommend one along with a water temps sensor, then you can link all the fans up and control the speed according to the water temp. An Aquaero is hugely useful in controlling a loop.
I always buy reference cards and block them, mainly as I buy on launch as I cant wait for the specialised cards to be released along with their blocks. I am a bit inpatient. :D

My first card will run at 2088/12,300 on stock voltages, I haven't messed with a custom curve as of yet but I will give it a punt at some point to see if I can get it over 2100Mhz, I also havent pushed the ram any further so I might be able to squeeze a touch more there. To be honest I am really happy with the clocks so any more will be a bonus.

This second card behaves the same as yours in that it never sees the Power Limit kick in, only the Voltage Limit actually thats all it ever says Voltage Limit 1. I have emailed EVGA and will be sending it back though and I will just keep the first card.

You have plenty of rad and should be able to run at lower temps than 50c, changing TIM should yield a few degrees as paste like Gelid Extreme or Grizzly will be an improvement on MX4. I have a fair collection of different TIM and Gelid and Grizzly are my favs with the tip of the hat going to Grizzly mainly due to it being easier to spread, its really nice stuff.

Your rads might also need a bit of dusting if it hasnt been done in a while, Ive knocked off a few degrees in the past due to dust build up. If you haven't already got an Aquaero then I really would recommend one along with a water temps sensor, then you can link all the fans up and control the speed according to the water temp. An Aquaero is hugely useful in controlling a loop.

Thank you, someone else that says it doesn't hit the power limit, neither does my zotac amp extreme, even overclocked it doesn't, so either zotac have a higher default power limit or something else.
 
Thank you, someone else that says it doesn't hit the power limit, neither does my zotac amp extreme, even overclocked it doesn't, so either zotac have a higher default power limit or something else.
Yes non reference cards AKA AIB cards have different power delivery designs and also tend to have 2x8 pin power connectors. Thus usually meaning increase TDP. It means the power limit on aftermarket cards are higher than FE cards. FE cards have a 250Watt TDP increasing the power limit in something like afterburner to 120% increases the TDP to 300watts. People including my self have hit the TDP wall (powerlimit) in benchmarks and some games. AIB cards should suffer less from this or not at all seen as they have higher TDPs though some don't list them or still list them as 250 when its far from the truth lol.
 
Try using gpu z to see whats going on using sensor tab but also use the 3d render in gpu z to see what clocks its boosting to. Id be supprised if it cant boost to atleast 2ghz. Also what sort of overclock have you got on your cpu? For some reason i had to take my cpu up a notch voltage wise because gta 5 and dues ex seemed to crash with 1080ti in my system. Now it doesnt with the voltage bump.

The CPU has been sitting at 4.3 for a few years now.
I use GPUz all the time when applying an over clock but I can't even get a 3D app to run. At stock the card us working perfectly.
I didn't know there was a render in GPUz ? Where is that ?
 
The CPU has been sitting at 4.3 for a few years now.
I use GPUz all the time when applying an over clock but I can't even get a 3D app to run. At stock the card us working perfectly.
I didn't know there was a render in GPUz ? Where is that ?

It's next to the Bus Interface section where it displays the PCIe info. There is a blueish question mark. Clicking on that brings up the little render test. Not exactly taxing but it shows your GPU under some good load.
 
generally speaking if your voltage limit is being hammered its probably just a poor chip.

best way to find out the best card between two is to underclock and undervolt at 1950mhz and see which chip needs what voltage to hit 1950 stable.
 
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