Thermal Imaging Heat Detection?

It's not a gas leak, it's a water pressure leak.

Yes, I understand - the point still stands.

I've not read the entire thread, but I saw recently there are companies that put gas through the central heating pipework and then use a gas leak detector to find where the problem is. This may help narrow down the location.

I think it was PB Plumber or James (PlumberParts) on YouTube that mentioned it - I cant find the link right now.
 
Sorry to hijack briefly but since the topic is here...

I have a slow pressure loss issue with my boiler as per the gauge, but it never cuts out (it says the boiler will stop operating below 0.5bar and should display an a error code - even with the gauge just above zero it doesn’t though).

No signs of any leakages and it’s a fairly new house (about 6grs old now) - I had a guy round who changed the pressure relief valve last year, thought it sorted it but it seems not.

The confusing bit is the gauge does work, if I add water then the pressure will rise as expected.

Any easy way to trouble shoot it? I assume if the system was truly at near zero pressure than the boiler should be throwing the error and cutting out but it doesn’t.
 
Yes, I understand - the point still stands.

I think it was PB Plumber or James (PlumberParts) on YouTube that mentioned it - I cant find the link right now.

Ah yeah, I see your point. I don't think my system is like that but I don't know for sure. I'll ask my guy.
 
Ah yeah, I see your point. I don't think my system is like that but I don't know for sure. I'll ask my guy.

I thought it was an interesting way to track down a leak. The alternative is using the water leak listening device, but (in my experience) that is very hit and miss.

I think it has to be a sealed system (can't be open vent - i.e. tank in loft).
 
If it was installed in 2012 the chances are it's plastic pipe, but then again it could be copper still ?

The plastic pipe needs an insert at every joint, but some installers cheap out and 'forget' to use them resulting in a problem you describe. They also all have rubber / neoprene sealing washers in them which are supposed to last 25 years, and they are a servicable item. If one of these has failed then you should for the sake of being on the safe side change all them if the inserts have not been used I would expect the installer to redo all the joints correctly free of charge and think himself lucky you aren't asking for the money already wasted to be refunded.

If it's copper then there are any number of fail conditions, not least the unusual sounding porous pipe where the thing leaks like sweating along its length. I'm told it's caused by impurities in the copper, and shouldn't happen but it does.
 
If it was installed in 2012 the chances are it's plastic pipe, but then again it could be copper still ?

The plastic pipe needs an insert at every joint, but some installers cheap out and 'forget' to use them resulting in a problem you describe. They also all have rubber / neoprene sealing washers in them which are supposed to last 25 years, and they are a servicable item. If one of these has failed then you should for the sake of being on the safe side change all them if the inserts have not been used I would expect the installer to redo all the joints correctly free of charge and think himself lucky you aren't asking for the money already wasted to be refunded.

If it's copper then there are any number of fail conditions, not least the unusual sounding porous pipe where the thing leaks like sweating along its length. I'm told it's caused by impurities in the copper, and shouldn't happen but it does.

Actually, we were in the kitchen and he was thinking aloud wondering if he'd laid copper or plastic pipes. I said I don't know but I think it was copper and he sort of agreed. So, no idea if he used plastic, inserts and washers.
 
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