Thinking about wetroom / new bathroom.

Fantastic work there. Impressive skills.
We put loads of that rock wool sound insulation in our house (every stud wall has it as well as floor joists where possible). It definitely makes a big difference in damping down sounds.

For your shower tray, I wondered if you could trim out a few mm of the stud or block work rather than cut the shower tray?

For tile cutters, I've tried a (cheap) manual tile cutter and I found it OK but difficult with larger, thicker, tiles. Bought a cheap electric tile cutter (one that's like a mini portable table saw) which I've had since 2009 and it still works. I found it much better than a manual one.
 
The tile cutter I have is a wet cutter. A bit similar to this from screwfix.com (I don't think screwfix had the titan brand back in 2009 when I bought mine).
Tile cutter
www.screwfix.com

Titan TC115I 500W Electric Tile Cutter 240V - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. 500W tile cutter with high torque anti-stall motor and water recirculation to reduce spillage. 45° mitre guide for internal and external corner joints. Double lock fence and accurate positioning angle gauge for diagonal cutting. Carry handle for easy transportation...
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
 
Looking good so far!

Apologies if done and missed, but while you have the chance it might be a good idea to add isolation valves to all outlets and even more so for the outside tap.

I have used paintable plastic access doors on the walls outside of our wet room and for the other area's, so I can isolate any outlet with ease.
 
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I'm going to add isolation valves once I second fix the outside tap (and non return). None of the others require it imo.
 
rangor gubbins said:
Fantastic work there. Impressive skills.
We put loads of that rock wool sound insulation in our house (every stud wall has it as well as floor joists where possible). It definitely makes a big difference in damping down sounds.

For your shower tray, I wondered if you could trim out a few mm of the stud or block work rather than cut the shower tray?

For tile cutters, I've tried a (cheap) manual tile cutter and I found it OK but difficult with larger, thicker, tiles. Bought a cheap electric tile cutter (one that's like a mini portable table saw) which I've had since 2009 and it still works. I found it much better than a manual one.
Click to expand...
I think I'm just going for a 700mm tray now which whilst small will fit.

Id rather a tile snapper plus can use my angle grinder as going to mitre the niches around the shower
 
Dabbed on some 20mm thick tile boards. Much better than I've previously done but a couple questions below. One was should it be level on spirit level diagonally? It is level up and down on a 1.8m level....


My plan was to put 2 niches either side of the shower but going to struggle unless I chop out the secondary on the right.

As I've already bought 2 shower niches I'm thinking about possibly putting a lower down one. Might be useful for the kid we're soon having at some point? :D it's a downstairs shower room


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Im sure the haters will say I should have staggered the boards, but I didn't have enough and don't think it will really matter as I'm putting waterproof tape over it at the end and put stixall glue in the joints.
 
Buffman said:
Dabbed on some 20mm thick tile boards. Much better than I've previously done but a couple questions below. One was should it be level on spirit level diagonally? It is level up and down on a 1.8m level....


My plan was to put 2 niches either side of the shower but going to struggle unless I chop out the secondary on the right.

As I've already bought 2 shower niches I'm thinking about possibly putting a lower down one. Might be useful for the kid we're soon having at some point? :D it's a downstairs shower room


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Im sure the haters will say I should have staggered the boards, but I didn't have enough and don't think it will really matter as I'm putting waterproof tape over it at the end and put stixall glue in the joints.
Click to expand...

Not a hater, but if you had started the next level with the narrow board, they would have been staggered.
 
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Bit of wood butchering to fit in a second shower niche. They should be nearish equidistance with a central mixer bar type shower.

The one on the right is extremely tight against the cables :D, and no it is not a load bearing stud wall :D

I realise it will all be very tight with a 700mm tray!

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Also fixed a top plate /packers and now one wall is done..
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I may be wrong but i am pretty sure those grey niches should be supported by a wood frame round all the edges not just two
 
964rs said:
I may be wrong but i am pretty sure those grey niches should be supported by a wood frame round all the edges not just two
Click to expand...
Aye im going to add some small pieces round the corner, you are correct. Due to clashes with pipework etc it's probably gonna be fairly slim pieces /offcuts though!

I did one before (tiler did the tiling)

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Filled a wall with insulation, made a frame and started fixing packers before putting boards on.


Boards feel pretty solid (12.5mm on a 300 centre stud wall but slightly concerned on a 600 centre wall that because its lifted off on certain positions that won't be enough support....

The walls are out about 10mm top to bottom!

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sigma said:
What's the plan to even out the wall? Spacers? Additional framing?
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Look at picture 2.

I went up from 0mm to 10mm packers the whole way up the wall to be fair i just used 20mm boards at the top instead of 12.5mm and it was flush
 
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This weekend was finishing the sound insulation and doing my backer boards.... I ran out of washers!

I'm using backer boards in all areas as it was around 12quid a sheet which is not dissimar to plasterboard price especially the small sheets I can fit in my car

Progress also slow as I need to pack out every wall to get it level
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Sorted tray, there seems to be a bit of flex in it but hopefully that all taken out when sand/cement and silicone dries.

I forgot to take a pic of the mortar mix but I pretty much flooded it full, used a whole 25kg bag of sand and about 5:1 eyeballed if a little on the sandy side.

Used a whole tube and a half of silicone

Tray was 1500*700, 36kg and near £400 but it's one of the anti slip ones which I like (apart from the fact it picks up marks easy...)

I will need to screed the floor with the tray in but I don't think that's a big issue

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Got the above tray to stop any shift by putting more silicone on the sides (multi tooled out some sand/cement at edges)

Pre Christmas I put some leveller down but I should have used the 2bags there is as there is some gaps /voids and not level. I've primer Ed it again 3times and going to put more leveller on it so it's easier to tile



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Great idea to use those extending support bars to push the threshold down while the glue is drying. Wish I'd thought of that when I put our thresholds in a couple of years ago!
 
rangor gubbins said:
Great idea to use those extending support bars to push the threshold down while the glue is drying. Wish I'd thought of that when I put our thresholds in a couple of years ago!
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Hah i thought so.... Its just a bit of old off cut floorboard tho and as you can see leaked a little bit. Will be fine for pour 2
 
rangor gubbins said:
The tile cutter I have is a wet cutter. A bit similar to this from screwfix.com (I don't think screwfix had the titan brand back in 2009 when I bought mine).
Tile cutter
www.screwfix.com

Titan TC115I 500W Electric Tile Cutter 240V - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. 500W tile cutter with high torque anti-stall motor and water recirculation to reduce spillage. 45° mitre guide for internal and external corner joints. Double lock fence and accurate positioning angle gauge for diagonal cutting. Carry handle for easy transportation...
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
Click to expand...

I have this tile cutter, very good for the price, slower than traditional scratch and crack tile cutters but you get less breakages and miscuts
 
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