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Those of you with OcUK OEM 2700K Official OC Results thread!!

i got mine at 4.6ghz 1.3v now, manuelly set with offset. max temps are 55c..

but tbh from stock to 4.6ghz it seems it does nothing to my fps.. so i guess stock isn't bottlenecking my cards.
 
I've set my 2700k at 4.5GHz at the moment, however the VCore is confusing me.

I've set it at 1.35 in the BIOS, yet in CPUZ it's 1.044 on the desktop, and 1.056 while running the Burn test. Surely that's too much of a drop?
 
I have now replaced the motherboard with one that works properly, and using a Noctua NH-D14 cooler have reached 4.8 GHz with a Vcore of 1.38V. It might be a couple of weks before I get it all under water, but I am expecting to hit 5GHz comfortably, and possibly 5.1. Not sure what difference other BIOS settings will make yet, but am gonna fiddle with bclk and clock skew settings when I upgrade the cooling :)
 
From what I've been reading the bclk can be adjusted by a small amount, most say up to about 5MHz should be safe if it's stable. As long as I only increase it by 0.2 MHz at a time, there should be no damage. It'll just fail to boot or fail IBT when it's too high. If I were to jump straight to 105 or 110 then that would be risky :)

According to the BIOS guide for this board on the ASUS ROG forums:
Bear in mind that the adjustment margin for this setting is not large - most processors have a range from 95~107 MHz. Changes to BCLK and stable operation of high memory frequencies (DDR3-2133+ for example) may benefit from manipulation of clock skew settings (more on that subject later in the guide).
Click to expand...

I'm not trying anything new until I have upgraded the cooling though, IBT hit the limit in terms of what temps I am prepared to run at under air.
 
debs3759 said:
I have now replaced the motherboard with one that works properly, and using a Noctua NH-D14 cooler have reached 4.8 GHz with a Vcore of 1.38V. It might be a couple of weks before I get it all under water, but I am expecting to hit 5GHz comfortably, and possibly 5.1. Not sure what difference other BIOS settings will make yet, but am gonna fiddle with bclk and clock skew settings when I upgrade the cooling :)
Click to expand...

What mobo did you end up getting out of interest and what liquid cooling are you going to buy also out of interest please ?

p.s
what make,model and amount of ram do you have & does the ram run at full speed, I.E the speed it says on the box without having to clock the ram I mean * ? ohh, and at what voltage do you have the ram too ? thanks very much :)
 
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debs3759 said:
From what I've been reading the bclk can be adjusted by a small amount, most say up to about 5MHz should be safe if it's stable. As long as I only increase it by 0.2 MHz at a time, there should be no damage. It'll just fail to boot or fail IBT when it's too high. If I were to jump straight to 105 or 110 then that would be risky :)

According to the BIOS guide for this board on the ASUS ROG forums:


I'm not trying anything new until I have upgraded the cooling though, IBT hit the limit in terms of what temps I am prepared to run at under air.
Click to expand...
but bclk changes the usb/sata/pcie ect also

but it's up to u anyway
 
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scotslad said:
What mobo did you end up getting out of interest and what liquid cooling are you going to buy also out of interest please ?

p.s
what make,model and amount of ram do you have & does the ram run at full speed, I.E the speed it says on the box without having to clock the ram I mean * ? ohh, and at what voltage do you have the ram too ? thanks very much :)
Click to expand...

I bought another Maximus IV Gene-Z, as there aren't many mATX SB boards and despite the problem with the original it does seem to be a good board.

The RAM is Kingston HyperX, rated for 2133MHhz at 1.65V. I have it running at 1600 with 1.55V, as this was the optimal setting with the 2600K that was previously installed. No point setting it higher until I start working on a higher clock, as beyond those speeds it showed no improvement in any benchmarks I tried with the 2600K. Keeping the lower speed also means a lower voltage and less system heat until I spend time refining it all :) With the 2600K installed, it was stable using XMP to set the ram to it's rated speed, so I am sure there will be no problems when I get back into it :)

For the watercooling, I have:

Swiftech Apoge XT Rev 2
MIPS full cover motherboard set
Bitspower GTX570/580 block (although it'll be another 2-3 weeks before I can buy the gpu)
2 * Alphacool VP655 (Laing D5) with plexi top (to run in serial for extra pressure and redundancy)
Phobya reservoir
Hailea Ultra Titan 1500 water chiller (this was bought for my next build, a dual SB-EP Xeon system, so will be replaced with a rad, tbd)

For the coolant, I will be using double distilled water with a biocide and die.

The only thing delaying it is that i have stretched my budget to it's limit (the second motherboard took the last of my reserves) until early next month and can't afford the drill for the bulkhead fittings until then. Plus, cleaning out a chiller that was previously used on an aquarium, and that the previous owner left dirty water (and fish pooh, etc) in for over a year, hasn't been the quickest cleaning task I ever undertook :)
 
debs3759 said:
I bought another Maximus IV Gene-Z, as there aren't many mATX SB boards and despite the problem with the original it does seem to be a good board.

The RAM is Kingston HyperX, rated for 2133MHhz at 1.65V. I have it running at 1600 with 1.55V, as this was the optimal setting with the 2600K that was previously installed. No point setting it higher until I start working on a higher clock, as beyond those speeds it showed no improvement in any benchmarks I tried with the 2600K. Keeping the lower speed also means a lower voltage and less system heat until I spend time refining it all :) With the 2600K installed, it was stable using XMP to set the ram to it's rated speed, so I am sure there will be no problems when I get back into it :)

For the watercooling, I have:

Swiftech Apoge XT Rev 2
MIPS full cover motherboard set
Bitspower GTX570/580 block (although it'll be another 2-3 weeks before I can buy the gpu)
2 * Alphacool VP655 (Laing D5) with plexi top (to run in serial for extra pressure and redundancy)
Phobya reservoir
Hailea Ultra Titan 1500 water chiller (this was bought for my next build, a dual SB-EP Xeon system, so will be replaced with a rad, tbd)

For the coolant, I will be using double distilled water with a biocide and die.

The only thing delaying it is that i have stretched my budget to it's limit (the second motherboard took the last of my reserves) until early next month and can't afford the drill for the bulkhead fittings until then. Plus, cleaning out a chiller that was previously used on an aquarium, and that the previous owner left dirty water (and fish pooh, etc) in for over a year, hasn't been the quickest cleaning task I ever undertook :)
Click to expand...

ok, thanks a lot for letting me/us know :)
 
Ive been reading up a review on this "Intel Core i7 3930K (LGA 2011)".

Isnt this already a serious rival for the 2700K ? even on price terms if you look at the price its available for from the likes of the usa, its about half the price in the usa than what it is here.

just wondering what all your thoughts are on this as i still have about 1 to 2 months before I buy all my new parts and if this is going to be a contender then I would be swayed to going that way.

let me know your thoughts guys, eh ?

thanks.

p.s
straight away i see a motherboard from overclockers on offer that looks good for that cpu here >> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showp...source=newsletterblackfriday&utm_medium=email
 
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scotslad said:
Ive been reading up a review on this "Intel Core i7 3930K (LGA 2011)".

Isnt this already a serious rival for the 2700K ? even on price terms if you look at the price its available for from the likes of the usa, its about half the price in the usa than what it is here.
Click to expand...

Be careful if you buy a 3930K (or any other expensive part) from the USA. If the seller puts the full value on the customs slip, then you will have a large amount of duty and VAT to pay when it passes through customs here. In many cases that can make an item that is significantly cheaper in the USA far more expensive. I had that problem when I bought a £100 chip a few years ago for $80, then had to pay £70 in duty, VAT and Post Office collection fees.

Of course, if you have a drop shipper that will put a value of $20 on the customs slip you could be laughing (as long as it doesn't get damaged in the post, with insufficient insurance).

So for most people I would advise buying here rather than from a USA vendor.
 
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