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Those of you with OcUK OEM 2700K Official OC Results thread!!

Be careful if you buy a 3930K (or any other expensive part) from the USA. If the seller puts the full value on the customs slip, then you will have a large amount of duty and VAT to pay when it passes through customs here. In many cases that can make an item that is significantly cheaper in the USA far more expensive. I had that problem when I bought a £100 chip a few years ago for $80, then had to pay £70 in duty, VAT and Post Office collection fees.

Of course, if you have a drop shipper that will put a value of $20 on the customs slip you could be laughing (as long as it doesn't get damaged in the post, with insufficient insurance).

So for most people I would advise buying here rather than from a USA vendor.

cheers, thanks for that :)

i also notice that mobo is an XL-ATX, I didnt even know such a thing excisted, lol, maybe be too big for my haf 932 case, i dont have a clue as anything other then ATX is all new to me, never had anything different, so I wouldnt know, lol
 
yeah, XL-ATX is too large for a HAF932.

ATX: 12in x 9.6in
E-ATX: 12in x 13in
XL-ATX 12in x 14.4in

The HAF932 box and spec say it can take up to E-ATX, so the XL-ATX would require some modifying of the case. My HAF932 is still in an unopened box (waiting for a future build, or possibly a resale) so can't comment on how easy such a mod would be. I know it won't fit a dual-socket board, so won't be used on my next planned build :)
 
yeah, XL-ATX is too large for a HAF932.

ATX: 12in x 9.6in
E-ATX: 12in x 13in
XL-ATX 12in x 14.4in

The HAF932 box and spec say it can take up to E-ATX, so the XL-ATX would require some modifying of the case. My HAF932 is still in an unopened box (waiting for a future build, or possibly a resale) so can't comment on how easy such a mod would be. I know it won't fit a dual-socket board, so won't be used on my next planned build :)

thanks for that :)

so does that mean that the "Intel Core i7 3930K (LGA 2011)" cpu is going to be a defo no-no for me if I want to keep the Haf932 case ? :eek:
 
thanks for that :)

so does that mean that the "Intel Core i7 3930K (LGA 2011)" cpu is going to be a defo no-no for me if I want to keep the Haf932 case ? :eek:

I just took a look at the board you linked to, and see the dimensions differ from the explanation of XL-ATX at wikipedia. The stated size is within what I understand E-ATX to be, so might fit. I would get a tape measure out and check it to be sure (I always have a tape measure next to me when checking specs and sourcing parts).

There are also standard ATX boards for 2011, so there will always be choices that do fit if that board doesn't.
 
I just took a look at the board you linked to, and see the dimensions differ from the explanation of XL-ATX at wikipedia. The stated size is within what I understand E-ATX to be, so might fit. I would get a tape measure out and check it to be sure (I always have a tape measure next to me when checking specs and sourcing parts).

There are also standard ATX boards for 2011, so there will always be choices that do fit if that board doesn't.

thanks for that :)

I think in this scenario then If I was to choose to go down the 2011 route then I would just get an ATX board, too much hassle and too risky messing about with modding cases and measuring things etc, LOL
 
well i think i lost in the silicon lottery, my 2700k oc's to -

4.8 @ 1.37
4.9 @ 1.40
5.0 @ 1.44

:(

To get stable under IBT (maximum stress, extreme mode) took 1.38V on mine, so if you tested it that thoroughly yours is better than mine at 4.8.

I can't test it at higher speeds until I get it all under water, coz I'm already touching on the maximum recommended temps while folding.
 
i have hit 73c now and i have a custom wc loop -

360 top rad 6 vipers push/pull

140 rad 2 vipers push/pull

plus two 140 fans and a single 120 (yes vipers! lol)

although i do have an air bubble i cannot shift in my cpu block, i dont know if that it effecting my temps?
 
I'm pretty sure an air bubble would affect the temps, as the air won't be as cold as the flowing water so you won't be getting the full benefit of the temps in the loop.
 
I'm pretty sure an air bubble would affect the temps, as the air won't be as cold as the flowing water so you won't be getting the full benefit of the temps in the loop.

well with a little help from a fellow forum user in the wc section i managed to clear the bubble.

just run 10 passes of IBT [email protected] (in bios) hit 74c and 1.376v in HWMonitor
3 hours of prime [email protected] (inbios) hit 69c 1.368v in HWMonitor

i think im getting there and getting rid of that bubble has really helped
 
That's great news. It's good to know that a decent stress test will also help to move air bubbles, I just received the last part for my water cooling so hope to have it up and running soon :)
 
Is 26C a normal idle temp for this CPU in an open case, with just CPU fan running (Thermalright Silver Arrow)? Not overclocked yet, just booted into bios for first time. Had a nightmare putting on thermalpaste, which is why I'm asking, haha. :o
 
Is 26C a normal idle temp for this CPU in an open case, with just CPU fan running (Thermalright Silver Arrow)? Not overclocked yet, just booted into bios for first time. Had a nightmare putting on thermalpaste, which is why I'm asking, haha. :o

Given that is only fractionally above normal room temp, absolutely I would say!
 
Right, I have the money right now to buy either the mobo or the cpu (I will be needing a 2700k, mobo, cooler , and ram as I stated before).

So I have the money to buy one of the most expensive parts which is the cpu or the mobo, I am a bit stuck think hmmm hmmm hmmm, shall I wait on december, shall I wait on january, or shall I buy one of the parts now rather than wait and buy everything at the one time.

For starters, I have noticed you guys saying there is a better batch of 2700K's to buy than the other for clocking purposes, so what exactly are those, can someone make that perfectly clear please thanks ?

And/or, would I be better buying the mobo instead of the cpu just now, I want to get a mobo that is pcIe 3.0 and usb 3 and pretty good for clocking.

but as you can imagine, I have a scatter brain just now, dont know whether to wait, or what to buy etc, you know what I mean guys, my head is actually sore thinking about it as it will all be a lot of money in the end as you know.

OR, do you think I am just better to wait and hope for the best in the next two months with prices hopefully, and I know it doesnt always work that way, lol, but hopefully coming down ??

I will let you experts decide for me please.

thanks :);)
 
Right, I have the money right now to buy either the mobo or the cpu (I will be needing a 2700k, mobo, cooler , and ram as I stated before).

So I have the money to buy one of the most expensive parts which is the cpu or the mobo, I am a bit stuck think hmmm hmmm hmmm, shall I wait on december, shall I wait on january, or shall I buy one of the parts now rather than wait and buy everything at the one time.

For starters, I have noticed you guys saying there is a better batch of 2700K's to buy than the other for clocking purposes, so what exactly are those, can someone make that perfectly clear please thanks ?

And/or, would I be better buying the mobo instead of the cpu just now, I want to get a mobo that is pcIe 3.0 and usb 3 and pretty good for clocking.

but as you can imagine, I have a scatter brain just now, dont know whether to wait, or what to buy etc, you know what I mean guys, my head is actually sore thinking about it as it will all be a lot of money in the end as you know.

OR, do you think I am just better to wait and hope for the best in the next two months with prices hopefully, and I know it doesnt always work that way, lol, but hopefully coming down ??

I will let you experts decide for me please.

thanks :);)

no point in buying 1 part and then waiting ages before buying the rest, I've just(well couple months back) have been burned by doing just that.

do you really need to upgrade? looking at your sig your pc should still be good enough to last you another 1-2yrs if not more, or you could wait till ivybridge is released in march/april.
 
why is core#0 lower than the others? is it the heatsink not sitting right or not enough Thermal Compound?

temps2.png
 
why is core#0 lower than the others? is it the heatsink not sitting right or not enough Thermal Compound?

temps2.png

I would not worry about this as it is quite normal for these cpu to have quite a large spread on temps accross the cores - it varies from chip to chip. You may see an improvement if you re seat the heatsink with fresh paste - up to you really, but deffo nothing to worry about.

Mark
 
got my 2700k OEM last week and it's solid at 5ghz with 1.36v.really happy i got a good chip at last.tried a few 2600k but did'nt manage to find a good chip.i'm running it in offset mode with an offset of + 0.005
 
got my 2700k OEM last week and it's solid at 5ghz with 1.36v.really happy i got a good chip at last.tried a few 2600k but did'nt manage to find a good chip.i'm running it in offset mode with an offset of + 0.005

You certainly seem to have got a good un.Wonder though how much of the o clock is down to your Asus ext z board? Can you tell me what your honest oppinion is of the board as I am curious as I have been recently considering changing to this very board - in search of better quality/stability etc.

Mark
 
i love the board.i had a gigabyte ga-p67a-ud7-b3 before that and the vcore was all over the place under load.this one is rock solid.i don't think the board is overly responsible for the oc as i bought 2 2700k's to try and the first one took a vcore of 1.42 to get stable and this chip is 1.36.although i think a cheaper board would maybe need more tweaking to get stable.all i did was wack in 50 on the multi and 1.42 on the vcore and tested till i got stable at 1.36.everything else is on auto and i set it to offset + 0.005.so it seems that the 2700k is deffo an improvment on the 2600k for oc's
 
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