This game changed a hell of a lot from inception and Korean launch. No, auto combat/levelling !!
It's actually a fun MMo, tailored to guild activities but also playable solo. You need tanks, support and healers like in the good old days.
PvP is fun, it has open world area's like W40k Age of Reckoning to full scale PvP dungeons (at night).
If you liked Aion and Archeage this is quite a mix of both but with a lot of personal customisation to suit diff playstyles.
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Pay to win ? I would say yes, if like me (my opinion) paying for convenience is basically a sort of P2W. You can buy packs of ingame tokens/currency to use on the Auction Hall (sadly)
Is it game breaking? nope, it's relatively easy to hit max GS as a free to play.
Some might argue that's not P2W.