Tiling questions

newbiejim

newbiejim

newbiejim

Soldato
Joined
22 Jun 2004
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2,693
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South Scotland
First.... I`m a tad concerned that my initial appraisal "acht it will be ok", might not be accurate lol, I intend (ed?) to tile a part of sloping ceiling in my bathroom, however as the actual deed looms I`m getting concerned incase its a bit mental, essentially the slope is as in the pic below, tile is porcelain and 600mm x 300mm x 8.5 mm............question is will they fall off?, I`ll be using decent cement based powdered adhesive (not the ready mixed stuff), also if we think it will be ok any novel methods of holding them in situ till adhesive sets?

IMG_20130705_185739.jpg

An additional query is my planning.....I`ve tried a rough panorama shot on my phone to illustrate, The tile sitting on the batten is where I *think* my first tile should be, extreme left is door frame, extreme right is where bath will be, I intend starting on a full tile from extreme right so that both walls will meet in middle corner with decent sized cuts (and in the middle corner will be the least seen area as one side of three sided shower will obscure), from first tile to floor is exactly one tile leaving a cut for the top at the ceiling.

Essentially am I about to make any glaring errors? :eek:

PANO_20130705_190035.jpg
 
Derek W said:
there was a further link which mentioned about using screws to fix the tiles in place then unscrew once they were set
Click to expand...

yes seems a possibility, I could screw a batten over the top of the tiles to hold them on, but that would only work for ones i could get screws in at either side............hmm, need to think, bound to be a variation of this possible
 
Makhaira said:
Make sure you're putting them on to a decent board to ensure a good surface.

I'd use something similar to Dunlop Fast Set Plus (it's what I've used, hence my vote for it), which has a very high initial grab. At 8.5mm they're fairly dense tiles, so you'll want good grab. Don't make the mix too wet.

Sure, you could batten them, but by the time you've got the batten in place, you'll already know if they're going to move or not.
Click to expand...

cheers m8, def worth investigating best adhesive for job
 
Nightglow said:
Oh the fun you will have...:D

The way I've done in the past is have a piece of ply the width of the area your tiling, & as your tiles are 300mm width of ply will be 225mm-250mm wide.
Screw a 2x1 bearer the width of the ply, this will stop the props sliding.

You will need some help for the next step, place ply on slope, measure from slope to floor at an angle, cut two bearer at the require length, check they fit & mark floor, then you can screw a bearer to floor, this will stop the prop sliding.
Make props long enough, so they can reach the higher rows of tiles.

With the weight of the tiles, I found tiling one row was enough to cope with at a time.
Lay one row, cover with the the ply, using props & bearer to hold tiles until dry.

Dunlop Fast Set Plus would be adhesive choice.
You need enough time for the tiles to be secure, & not drop off.
Click to expand...

This was my initial heath robinson-esque plan lol, good to hear it works
 
Nightglow said:
The secret of success is the board they are being stuck to, if it's highly adsorbent,then there are high chance of tiles failing.
Also if you use existing board as in your photo, make sure it's screwed.:o

A few years ago, I tiled a slope, & the weight of tiles pulled the backing board completely off the bearers.
Ended using Backer Board securely screwed to the bearers, expensive lesson learnt.:o
Click to expand...

lol this scares me a bit, this is the original plasterwork I intend tiling onto, *seems* robust-ish :confused:
 
Nightglow said:
It works, but it's slow & needs two peeps to do it.
The newer high grab adhesive makes the job easier today, than yesteryear, & you might get away without the need of support.

But, it's the weight of the tile & quality of the backing board that can give you serious problems.

EDIT: Put some plasterboard screws in it, they will make it secure, if it's nailed the weight of tiles can pull the plasterboard through the nails, I speak from experience.:o
Click to expand...

Ahh, that seems a good idea, could be nailed with those small headed nails
 
hmm, overboarding may not be an option due to proximity of shower cubicle.........however it will only be about 9 tiles in total, still a fair weight, unless of course i abandon tiling the slope, BUT then I would need to come up with another solution........

edit: overboarding is possible :-)
 
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Nightglow said:
Gyproc is still plaster.;)

Still wouldn't trust it myself.

Wouldn't bother with the Makita, better off with a proper tile cutter, I have this one.

It has cut hundreds of tiles including thick floor tiles, been superb, will cut angles.
Table tilts & locks up to 45 degrees for bevel cutting, & max. depth of cut - 33mm at 90°, 24mm at 45°.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarke-ETC1...63PG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_diy_2/279-5212735-2101432
Click to expand...

yeah i know its plaster but kinda hoping it will be ok lol, thing about the makita is it saves a huge amount of faffin about running up and downstairs etc, I already have a tile saw similar to that one, its old but still works, so I could have best of both options for tackling a job I`m relatively unskilled in.
 
Nightglow said:
If you having tiling machine,then the Makita will be a worth while addition to your tool kit.

As to your dilemma with plaster lathes, only you can decide whether it's better to replace.
A bit more work than you wanted, but in the long run, but replacing it will give peace of mind knowing it removes the possibility of it all come crashing down.
Click to expand...

yeah ure correct, thing is the shower tray is down and fixed now, almost immediately beneath this slope, decisions.........

hers another option for a new toy (I kinda feel I deserve it after my hard labour)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWOzXm-L2Rs
 
Nightglow said:
Now that makes much more sense that idea, a 115mm grinder with that Bosch attachment.

I would like that attachment, but I might end up buying another grinder, as mine is 125mm grinder, would have to go & have a look at one & see if it will fit.
Click to expand...

lol, however it isn't as portable, battery power (whilst not having as much oomph) IS super convenient, tho the Bosch will def not create as much mess with no water etc.......wonder which one is easier to follow a line?, one pushes and one pulls.....
 
Nightglow said:
Now that makes much more sense that idea, a 115mm grinder with that Bosch attachment.

I would like that attachment, but I might end up buying another grinder, as mine is 125mm grinder, would have to go & have a look at one & see if it will fit.

EDIT: Just had a look at the manual & it won't fit.:(
Means new grinder, but with the kit are three core cutters, now that is clever.

Manual here: http://www.tilecouture.co.uk/produc...tile-cutter/?gclid=CMvp7qfEnbgCFZShtAodgngApg

Cheapest price here: http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/bosch-g...t-extensions&gclid=CIOBi-HFnbgCFcXKtAodHCkAhQ
Click to expand...

£126 not a bad price, hugely tempted by the Bosch
 
Bit of an update to this thread......... think I`m getting there.....dont think I`ve made any huge errors, cut one tile wrong but can use it in other place etc.

(I didnt buy the Bosch tool btw, managing ok with tile saw)

Question, the tiles at the bottom I plan using on one wall.........as you can see though they interlock....I`m thinking this may cause issues when setting out?, getting them to finish at wall edge with a cut, and mating on to a slope........ :eek: (VW fob for scale)




 
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That's odd about the pics, lol @ the slope, yeah I`m leaving the slope till last cos I`m scared :eek:

I`ll post pics of tiles later when I get back from work, I was thinking I would need to set them out in such a way that would ensure I`m not finishing at the edge of a tile etc.
 
as requested, two tiles, one pic meshed together so to speak, another apart for clarity.







pic below shows how I am trying to 'sweeten' out the walls not being 'square', might put in another piece of tile strip for the bottom tiles of the slope to make things look level etc....

 
Bit of an update, used BAL mosaic fix, initial grab was superb, so much so I don't think the wood supports are critical, though they do help hold them the way u need etc
 
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