Tokyo Olympics 2020

I wasn't going to pay for Eurosport, but the gf jut got it so put the men's qualifiers on in the background now :)

Definitely the sport I'm most interested in (even if I find the decision to include speed climbing baffling)
 
(even if I find the decision to include speed climbing baffling)

Not sure I get the hatred for speed climbing but, regardless, it's probably the best climbing sport for a casual audience. Get to the top as fast as you can is instantly understandable, watchable, and a take on the most classic of sports. It's short, explosive, and doesn't require someone to appreciate the nuance of the sport. I climbed a lot before I ****** my wrist up, and so I can appreciate the skill on display in the bouldering but I can also understand why @robfosters thinks "[t]hey seem to spend most of their time brushing the wall and falling off". I think it's a good thing for sports climbing to have something there to whet the appetite of a wider audience and speed climbing is good for that.
 
I wasn't going to pay for Eurosport, but the gf jut got it so put the men's qualifiers on in the background now :)

Definitely the sport I'm most interested in (even if I find the decision to include speed climbing baffling)

What channel is it on? Eurosport 2 is showing medal ceremonies for gymnastics, not climbing?

Absolute shambles...
 
It's on now, and they're showing a re-run of the speed climbing....which I already know the results of, instead of the bouldering, which is live.

Apparently the camerawork is a shambles too, keep focusing on people brushing holds while off camera other competitors are getting tops.

Amateur hour.
 
What channel is it on? Eurosport 2 is showing medal ceremonies for gymnastics, not climbing?

Absolute shambles...
I may be getting mixed up because it says 'Eurosport' in the corner but don't know if it's actually a 'Eurosport' channel - streaming it online, just selected climbing from the list of sports on 'Discovery+' and there it was.

Not sure I get the hatred for speed climbing but, regardless, it's probably the best climbing sport for a casual audience. Get to the top as fast as you can is instantly understandable, watchable, and a take on the most classic of sports. It's short, explosive, and doesn't require someone to appreciate the nuance of the sport. I climbed a lot before I ****** my wrist up, and so I can appreciate the skill on display in the bouldering but I can also understand why @robfosters thinks "[t]hey seem to spend most of their time brushing the wall and falling off". I think it's a good thing for sports climbing to have something there to whet the appetite of a wider audience and speed climbing is good for that.
I guess I can see why it might be most attractive to a general audience, but to me it's just a completely different sort to the climbing that I'm familiar with and what is practiced by most people around the world. Just lacks any of the problem solving, novelty, and strategy that makes climbing what it is, replaces it with a simple contest to repeat a set sequence of moves as perfectly and quickly as possible (although being charitable I will acknowledge it requires its own skill and good technique to do well) . I'd prefer it if they didn't try to pander to a general audience and kept it closer to what most actual climbers do.

To me it would be like adding in a 'How fast can you change your bike tyre inner tube' competition to the triathlon or 'how many keepy-uppies can you do' element to the football.

Apparently next Olympics speed climbing will be a separate discipline, which is fine by me - that can be the attention grabber with those 100m sprint vibes, and it won't affect the more traditional elements of the sport.
 
I guess I can see why it might be most attractive to a general audience, but to me it's just a completely different sort to the climbing that I'm familiar with and what is practiced by most people around the world. Just lacks any of the problem solving, novelty, and strategy that makes climbing what it is, replaces it with a simple contest to repeat a set sequence of moves as perfectly and quickly as possible. I'd prefer it if they didn't try to pander to a general audience and kept it closer to what most actual climbers think climbing is.

I find sport climbing, in general, quite different to what I consider climbing. But that's okay, it's fine for sports to be their own thing. We used to close out our indoor climbing sessions by trying to speed climb one or two of the easier routes, and I don't necessarily agree that it's more removed from what I think climbing is. It's just a different expression. That said:

Apparently next Olympics speed climbing will be a separate discipline, which is fine by me - that can be the attention grabber with those 100m sprint vibes, and it won't affect the more traditional elements of the sport.

Seems to me a better solution. It does feel like it's a sufficiently different discipline and skill set that it deserves to be separated. At the moment it's more of a climbing triathlon, and whilst there's nowt wrong with mixed events usually you also have the individual disciplines as well.
 
I find sport climbing, in general, quite different to what I consider climbing. But that's okay, it's fine for sports to be their own thing. We used to close out our indoor climbing sessions by trying to speed climb one or two of the easier routes, and I don't necessarily agree that it's more removed from what I think climbing is. It's just a different expression.
I guess that's a good point, and a lot of the climbing that average participants do is never intended to be competitive in any way, unlike football say which is inherently competitive. It just feels to me that a lot of the things that make climbing what it is (eg problem solving, planning things out) can be translated relatively well into the olympic bouldering and lead climbing disciplines without making as many sacrifices as speed climbing does. It is still an expression of climbing, just one I don't feel represents the majority of the sport very well, but then that is very subjective at the end of the day.
 
I find sport climbing, in general, quite different to what I consider climbing. But that's okay, it's fine for sports to be their own thing. We used to close out our indoor climbing sessions by trying to speed climb one or two of the easier routes, and I don't necessarily agree that it's more removed from what I think climbing is. It's just a different expression. That said:

Modern gym climbing is pretty well removed from real rock anyway with big compression moves and a fairly dynamic style. However, I don't think Olympic trad would catch on too well.. Watching someone gibber around for 10 minutes, 5 metres above their last bit of dubious gear!
 
What will be funny is that they will break out the speed climbing from the proper climbing and then realise that the average punter would rather watch someone run up a wall in 6s than watch the best climbers in the world compete in actual climbing. Its fundamentally not a massively watchable sport unless you are into it. Far too much faff and falling off for the average person to appreciate.
 
I can't decide if the sport climb belayer is awesome or frightening :D Certainly gave him a soft catch, but only about a meter from the deck.....
 
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