Tomorrow....

OK, bit of an update. Compression test has came out at ~190 for all four, so not the best (healthy stock ITRs are usually around the 220-250 mark).

They have checked all the rocker pins etc, and everything else they can see without taking the head off, and everything is OK, they have contacted Toda, and Toda say that those cams aren't best suited to this application, and work best with a high compression setup.

They said there are few other things to look into, but basically it looks like it's all just mis-matched.

I could swap the cams out for standard ITR items and see how it goes, but I'm seriously tempted to say **** it and do it properly, get the bottom end rebuilt with high compression pistons etc..... :o

/goes to price up pistons and stuff............
 
Doesn't look like it TBH, from what Performance Autoworks can see without pulling the head, everything checks out OK.
 
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That's pretty much what PA are saying too. It does seem like the engine was built in a 'bolt parts on and hope for the best' fashion :(

But **** it, there's no point getting all ****** off about it, I'm going to concentrate on getting it done right, if it means getting the bottom end done properly with high comp pistons etc then so be it.
 
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Of course, another option would be to leave the compression where it is, change the cams and go forced induction.............:o
 
No worries mate, I don't think even for one second that you were aware of any issues when you sold it.

As for the ECU, PA have tried it with a stock ECU and it's still the same.
 
******** to forced induction, just found this vid that shows what a well setup high compression N/A B20 build can make:

263whp

:eek:
 
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twoblacklines said:
You know it makes sense
Click to expand...

Ooohh, now that's a thought. I'm still looking at my options and what sort of budget I'm going to have, but TBH if I go for ITBs I can make a bit back by selling my current intake manifold and Spoon throttle body.........
 
I was under the impression that, synchro issues aside, the stock ITR 'box is pretty strong? People are running superchargers/turbos with them...
 
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I agree K20A would be very nice indeed, but from what I can find, the engine alone is ~£2200, not including a 'box. So add the box on to that, and then getting the whole shebang fitted, it'll be past the cost of a built B20 would it not?
 
merlin said:
...minus the cost of breaking your B20.
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This is true. By the looks of it there's nothing mechanically wrong with my engine, it's just a bad combination of parts. So yeah, it's got to be worth something in parts....

Hmm, damn you both to hell, you've got me thinking on another tangent now :o

/EDIT There's the cost of the ECU and obligitory K-Pro to add to that. Although, I could make a bit back from the S300 to offset that a bit..
 
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Yeah I saw that thread, it does look like a lot of work, but it is also pretty straight forward becuase you can buy mounts and special hybrid wiring looms ready made for the job, it's all pretty much plug and play stuff, if I go down that route I am seriously considering DIYing it.
 
Right, lets lay it on the table. After consulting with she who holds the purse strings ( ;) ), I reckon I'll have about £4k to play with. So, options are:

- Properly built high-comp B20.
- Forced Induction.
- K20 conversion (is it doable for £4k?)

I don't know what to do :(
 
Psycrow said:
EDIT - I just had a we laugh to myself remember you saying you were giving up modding after the rex :)
Click to expand...

:o

As for the costs of each, I haven't really sat down and worked it out yet, but basically I want as much RELIABLE power as I can get whilst keeping it to the budget. Reliability is the key word though.

I just spoke to PA and I am picking the car up tomorrow, I might as well have it back whilst I consider my options. Can't fault PA one little bit though, Richy has been massively helpfull and they have charged me much less than I was expecting, especially considering the road mapping and dyno time spent on the car trying to pinpoint the issue, not to mention some other little bits and bobs they have done whilst it was there.

Fantastic service :cool:
 
Mad old tory said:
Sorry for the noob question, but is the B20 the DC2 type r engine and the k20 the DC5 engine?
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DC2 Type-R engine is a B18, mine is what's known as a 'frankenstein' build, it uses the B20 bottom end that's found in the HRV, but with the ITR B18 VTEC top end. The idea is to get better torque across the rev range, and well built B20's can work very well.
 
Tim said:
You driven a K20 powered car Drex? I have and wasn't impressed, I imagine it'd be different in a lightweight DC2 but I'd still be tempted to keep it B series...
Click to expand...

No I haven't. I have heared they don't have the 'character' of the B-Series, with a smoother and more linear delivery? Still, as an engine theres no denying they are fantastic bits of kit.
 
Got the car back today, apart from not making any power on VTEC, the engine is running sweet as a nut. The idle was a bit dodgy before it went in, it's now perfect, and it's now lovely and smooth down low and on part throttle. It also pulls fairly well down low, so it just shows that Richy is on the ball with his mapping skills, it would have been awesome if it had worked :(

Anyway, onwards and upwards, I'm currently looking into a freshly built B18C that is up for sale. It has been built by ERL in the states with a decked block, knife-edged crank, forged pistons and rods etc etc, the top end is equally as nicely specced. It apparently cost the best part of £7k to build and is good for 10k rpm and 250bhp+ :eek:

Need to do more homework on it first though.
 
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