Type R and VTEC owners

Is this on the R18, a resonator delete? I didnt know there was one on these.Any negative effects other than noise?

Just disconnect the resonator/intake hose. Will result in more heatsoak but any open intake would anyway. Will give you an idea if you think it's worth it and only takes a moment to try.

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Just disconnect the resonator/intake hose. Will result in more heatsoak but any open intake would anyway. Will give you an idea if you think it's worth it and only takes a moment to try.

Ah ok thanks, I've done similar before and a K&N or Spoon panel filter, I'll give it a try and if there is any adverse affects just reconnect it

Nice one
 
Fitted a Mugen intake I’ve had knocking around for a couple of months to my DC5. Coronavirus kinda sidetracked me for a while. Went out for an hour around staffs countryside, only saw three cars for the first 40 minutes :cool: A little bit more bark crossing over to and in VTEC. Feels like a little bit more torque. Butt dyno approved :o
 
A little more bark?! The previous owner had a GruppeM fitted when he had it imported to my old one, when compared to a couple of stock cars it sounded hugely different to me! I know the Mugen is just an improved OEM one, lots of scene points though cos Mugen. Mine certainly added a few more smiles per miles, not that they weren't forthcoming anyway!

On an unrelated note, front offside shock absorber went on the Civic last week. Thankfully the mechanic I use is still open for business and is sorting it on Wednesday - not the best timing with all this stuff going on and being a critical worker I have to get to work. 70 miles daily until it's fixed is an uncomfortable ride...
 
Hi there


Manage to get a few jobs done to the S2K recently, machine polished, waxed and sealant. Underside cleanse and degrease (no rust spotted but still gonna bilt hamber treat arches), got a spare air box for £20 and modified it to flow more cold air with some ducting and drilled some holes in it to get air box lid of noise, seems to be working air filter is staying cool to the touch even after an hours worth of VTEC YO. Also fitted a Berk HFC which seems to have made it more perkier, stock catalyst seemed in good order though but it was a total nightmare to get off, in the end I had to just take grinder to one of bolts as no amount of penetrating oil, shock treatment or even drilling would see it off, the grinder sorted that in a few seconds.

Some pictures from today's outing:


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Also managed to get a set of AP2v1 wheels for £40, they are corroded and with worn tyres, the plan is to get them restored and re-diamond cut so original and get a set of PS4 tyres all round, but that will have to wait until lock down ends.:


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Thoroughly love driving this car around, I've also fully rebuilt the shifter, new grease, new parts, also done gear box and differential oil change too, surprisingly easy on this, did not make a huge difference as it felt spot on before but it is a little more positive and easily best gear box I have used in my life, better than the Porsches I had for sure.

The car feels very strong, again once lock down is over plan is to visit dyno to check its making the 230-240HP and then I plan on a custom map to take advantage of the HFC and bring the VTEC engagement down and see if we can hit 250HP, am also considering a set of a 4.44 or 4.62 final ratio for the car, which would dramatically improve low down as well.

Love the handling balance but the car does feel nervous at higher speeds or long sweeping corners, feels loose in rear, at low speed it seems fine and is progressive at limit. But the car is running new Toledo TL1000 rear budget tyres and heavily worn front Bridgestone ER300 tyres, so the tyre miss-match won't be helping matters, once lock down is over the AP2v1 wheels will be refurbed and a set of PS4 boots and then put on the car, the wheels are also nearly 1kg lighter per wheel compared to the AP2v3 (CR wheels) on the car too. If it still nervous at this point then the car will get a full suspension overhaul, so full alignment with new bushes where needed and maybe a set of ohlins R&T or KW V1's, more inclined to go KW V1, cost less than a grand and no adjustment apart from height, so no fiddling about, I'd drop the height by around an inch max all round, maybe a little less as don't want tyres to look tucked want that at least thumb gap between tyre and arch look.

Properly enjoying the car, it is incredible fun to drive and it has zero rattles and roof up the only noise is from the catches which I am sure there is a fix for. No plans for exhaust as the induction noise on this car is incredible!
 
Good to know you're enjoying it! Great cars :) @Gibbo

I'm running ohlins and have no complaints about them, great on the road. No issues with high speed stability either car feels planted. Could be your tyres like you said, will probably make a massive difference once you go with PS4's.
 
Good to know you're enjoying it! Great cars :) @Gibbo

I'm running ohlins and have no complaints about them, great on the road. No issues with high speed stability either car feels planted. Could be your tyres like you said, will probably make a massive difference once you go with PS4's.


Any harsher on road and again is it the road and track kit, should I be looking at £2500 for them also looked at car and it seems damper/spring swap looks very work on these of course setting up ride height and corner waiting needs a proper shop to do along with alignment.
 
How come you didn't fully decat? Too lazy for MOT time i guess?

What you need is a nice Toda racing manifold ;) There is one currently in my shed and gave a nice midrange gain especially with the cat removed, although i expect the high flow cat is going to help too.

https://www.hondaperformanceparts.c...manifold-s2000-f20c-standard-and-slip-jointed

Be careful with those bush replacement jobs, they soon get expensive :D
 
How come you didn't fully decat? Too lazy for MOT time i guess?

What you need is a nice Toda racing manifold ;) There is one currently in my shed and gave a nice midrange gain especially with the cat removed, although i expect the high flow cat is going to help too.

https://www.hondaperformanceparts.c...manifold-s2000-f20c-standard-and-slip-jointed

Be careful with those bush replacement jobs, they soon get expensive :D


Laziness at MOT time and did not want the smell.

Yeah I know suspension bush work will be easily into 4 figures or there abouts but plan is to sort it all staying OEM or OEM plus just don’t want a bone shaking car and just upgrade to decent coil overs.

Plan is to book with Chris at COG for a health check he can then give it a wallet damaging prescription and go from there.
 
You had an S2K before?
Was it the Ohlins R&T you had that are about £2500 for the kit?

Any harsher than stock?

Yeah I had one but wrote it off 4 years ago. I still miss it. :(

Yes I had the R&T. They are much more comfortable than stock.

S2000 suffers with poor aero at higher speeds.
 
Yeah I had one but wrote it off 4 years ago. I still miss it. :(

Yes I had the R&T. They are much more comfortable than stock.

S2000 suffers with poor aero at higher speeds.

Yeah like idea of Ohlins not into idea of adjustable rebound and compression as just forever messing with settings lol but in fairness on the KW Clubsports on M3 did allow to dial it in perfect and it handled insanely well and was planted at all speeds.

The nervous rear end float is present from around 70-100mph in long sweepers just feels like it wants to break loose but I’m guessing the tyres won’t be helping at all and until I get it properly aligned could be out also though tyre wear looks pretty equal. But COG can diagnose and then quote for bushing and unseizing of adjusters and bushes.
 
COG are good but very expensive! Bushes is a lot of labour intensive work, may be better using a known local garage for that then take it to Chris afterwards to set up the geo.
 
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