I went for three nights in the height of Summer last year.
I'll get the downsides out of the way first...
- It was very hot, 32 degrees and pretty much 100% humidity, not dropping much in the evening either, it wasn't nice at all.
- On the most part, it was as busy as I expected it to be... until the weekend and the Cruise ships all rolled in, it then became the busiest I think I've seen anywhere. You have huge parties of people going to the major attractions, which means long queues and you have to trudge your way through St. Mark's Square.
- It is expensive, infact the most expensive place I've been in Europe and the same goes for the people I went with. I'm sure there are cheaper places outside of the busier areas, but let's face it, Venice itself is a tourist trap, it's only a small place that relies on tourism. The day I arrived was the first day of the new 'tourist tax' which is a charge levied on any foreigner staying per night in hotels. In the vicinity of the St. Mark's Square area, you can expect to pay a lot for even soft drinks. One night we sat at one of the bar's in the square and not only were the drinks expensive, we had to pay an additional €15 as a 'music' charge for the orchestra band, even though anyone not sitting down can hear them for free!
- Somebody mentioned billboards - Yes, that's true at the moment, there is some restoration work going on around the Bridge of Sighs and the back end of St. Mark's Square. Unfortunately, they've allowed the scaffolding hoardings to be used as advertising spaces, it's a bit crass.
- Yes it's got lots of Africans selling jewellery and handbags, but doesn't everywhere these days? At night, loads of people of Indian or Pakistani origins turn up selling these silly little light up things that you flick up in the air, it gets a bit annoying.
- I thought Harry's Bar (Home of the Belini) was a bit overrated, it's too small as well.
With the bad out the way, I can safely say that it's the most beautiful city I've ever visited and I'd recommend everyone try and see it in their lifetime. There is so much to see and you can literally just go off wandering around the Canals to see where you end up and what you find.
I personally didn't think the place smelled, and this was the height of summer. The only bad whiff I ever noticed was in the hotel elevator for some reason, presumably because the shaft runs all the way down to some murky water. Even on a Gondola it didn't smell bad. The worst smell I had to endure was that the hotel room I had, while lovely, stunk of smoke.
If I was to go again, I would defiantly aim to go during one of the quieter periods of the year, possibly during winter.