Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Sep 2010
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- 6,151
Black pleaaaaseDo you want a black one or a white one... I would offer you some of my specials but no
haha no, I wouldn't expect you to part with one of the othersVince's Repair Thread - (Console Repairs & Mods)
- Thread starter Vince
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- lets repair things
haha no, I wouldn't expect you to part with one of the others
Black pleaaaase
And here is the issue... well partly...
These 2 alps pots look the same right? Wrong...
There is a 10k alps, then there is a 2.1k alps (EL6) and then there is a favour union (EL7) looks like the 2.1 and 2.3 are interchangeable while the 10 k isn't... if you put 10k pots in the 2k pads all hell breaks lose.
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Soldato
- Joined
- 29 Sep 2010
- Posts
- 6,151
Too many different variables for me to ever get this rightAnd here is the issue... well partly...
These 2 alps pots look the same right? Wrong...
There is a 10k alps, then there is a 2.1k alps (EL6) and then there is a favour union (EL7) looks like the 2.1 and 2.3 are interchangeable while the 10 k isn't... if you put 10k pots in the 2k pads all he'll breaks lose.
Too many different variables for me to ever get this right
I will see if I can find the pinout for the dialogue IC I bet it has a reset pin somewhere... possibly.
Incredibly hot then! I’d imagine it wouldn’t take long at those temps to start destroying the PCB? Clearly I need to read up an awful lot more…
If you dont keep the air moving you will destroy the pcb while also melting anything plastic... if you can keep the air moving you wont even melt plastic at 460. Take your eyes off the ball though and you gonna melt it all
On thinner boards say a GG board where it's old so leaded solder and just a simple thin 2 layer board I would never use air at 460, even at like 350 ish you run the risk of popping vias. When that happens on a GG it makes a very satisfying popping sound.
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Soldato
You may already know but theres a few discounts on ali at the moment, might be a time to invest in test gear, im half tempted to grab a scope. Ive already got a tranny tester made by fnirsi, which seemed good.
Black pleaaaase
Done and I can tell you for sure that the black pad you sent me would have had 2.3k pots from the board revision! Because I had to use the same board from a white one I had knocking around to build up the black one. This now has 2.1k Alps pots in it for you!
I also used the new thumb sticks from your pack on it! Not gonna lie I stole a set for myself but havent used these beyond playing with your boards... I did want to have a proper test of them but im not sure I fully trust them on anything but a 10k board.
I also updated the firmware and calibrated the pad... all good! Slowly building up the knowledge the more of these that come in! Here are the ones i fixed up today! Or at least some of them..
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Associate
- Joined
- 23 Apr 2020
- Posts
- 49
I had a busy weekend.
I upgraded my HTPC to a core I7. Won't restart, so quick probe around the Mobo and find that one of the Power button switch connector post is loose and the solder had disintegrated. Quick spot of solder and away she goes. It's very satisfying when you diagnose correctly and go from heart stopping and blaming yourself, to a happy chappy and know that you've 'done good'.
XBox 360 No1 is apart and I've cleaned up the Mobo. It a little cleaner than the pics below because after 2 hours of cleaning off the concrete aka thermal paste I took the photos for a change of pace, then finished off the job.
I'm determined to find how to paste an image into the forum. Currently it's rejecting anything https:\\ for me.
Everything else has arrived, except the power brick which Evri are taking on a magical mystery tour. HDD is 20 gb 2.5 inch SATA drive. I'll have a dig around for another larger one at some point, or just get a replacement. Never liked the 2.5 inch drives previously as I find them flimsy and less reliable than the 3.5 inch ones.
Do the wireless controllers have a 'power on' indicator? This will be apart soon for a clean up and replacing the joysticks.
In other news, in dug out my PSP. It won't charge so I'm guessing this can go on the 'todo' list? Can you get new batteries for them? Is there an OLED option for them?
Appears to be fine apart from that. In fact it's immaculate.
I upgraded my HTPC to a core I7. Won't restart, so quick probe around the Mobo and find that one of the Power button switch connector post is loose and the solder had disintegrated. Quick spot of solder and away she goes. It's very satisfying when you diagnose correctly and go from heart stopping and blaming yourself, to a happy chappy and know that you've 'done good'.
XBox 360 No1 is apart and I've cleaned up the Mobo. It a little cleaner than the pics below because after 2 hours of cleaning off the concrete aka thermal paste I took the photos for a change of pace, then finished off the job.
Everything else has arrived, except the power brick which Evri are taking on a magical mystery tour. HDD is 20 gb 2.5 inch SATA drive. I'll have a dig around for another larger one at some point, or just get a replacement. Never liked the 2.5 inch drives previously as I find them flimsy and less reliable than the 3.5 inch ones.
Do the wireless controllers have a 'power on' indicator? This will be apart soon for a clean up and replacing the joysticks.
In other news, in dug out my PSP. It won't charge so I'm guessing this can go on the 'todo' list? Can you get new batteries for them? Is there an OLED option for them?
Appears to be fine apart from that. In fact it's immaculate.
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Built a quick GG over lunch, as you do...
I'll throw up some images of it running as well... but first I'm opening more consoles... we have 10 one x machines to work through.. here are some...
This is the first of two packages and was 28 kg!
I'll throw up some images of it running as well... but first I'm opening more consoles... we have 10 one x machines to work through.. here are some...
This is the first of two packages and was 28 kg!
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Blimey. That's a stack of consoles!
Had a go at replacing that PS5 HDMI port, what a pain to get off. So much flux, so much heat. Ended up repurposing my 3D Printer as a heater to get some soak into the board, got it off cleanly and cleaned it up. New port on and... nothing.
I got a slightly green fuzzy screen once when it was repairing the drive (guess the owner got cheesed off with it and unplugged it halfway through boot), then nothing. Starts up as normal, ejects disks and makes all the right noises but I'll be damned if I can get it to display a picture again.
There was a tiny resistor between two of the traces that I think I lost in the desoldering process, I've read that it's "not needed" but I'm starting to think it is (why would it be there in the first place?!)...
Had a go at replacing that PS5 HDMI port, what a pain to get off. So much flux, so much heat. Ended up repurposing my 3D Printer as a heater to get some soak into the board, got it off cleanly and cleaned it up. New port on and... nothing.
I got a slightly green fuzzy screen once when it was repairing the drive (guess the owner got cheesed off with it and unplugged it halfway through boot), then nothing. Starts up as normal, ejects disks and makes all the right noises but I'll be damned if I can get it to display a picture again.
There was a tiny resistor between two of the traces that I think I lost in the desoldering process, I've read that it's "not needed" but I'm starting to think it is (why would it be there in the first place?!)...
Blimey. That's a stack of consoles!
Had a go at replacing that PS5 HDMI port, what a pain to get off. So much flux, so much heat. Ended up repurposing my 3D Printer as a heater to get some soak into the board, got it off cleanly and cleaned it up. New port on and... nothing.
I got a slightly green fuzzy screen once when it was repairing the drive (guess the owner got cheesed off with it and unplugged it halfway through boot), then nothing. Starts up as normal, ejects disks and makes all the right noises but I'll be damned if I can get it to display a picture again.
There was a tiny resistor between two of the traces that I think I lost in the desoldering process, I've read that it's "not needed" but I'm starting to think it is (why would it be there in the first place?!)...
Im on number 3 already! charging our way through!
@Vince - do you use a low melt solder when desoldering? Have read that this can really help - put some on, then you need less heat to remove the part. Think I tried it once before, but can’t recall (I blame old age!) and I keep meaning to try it again, but always seem to forget to
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@Vince - do you use a low melt solder when desoldering? Have read that this can really help - put some on, then you need less heat to remove the part. Think I tried it once before, but can’t recall (I blame old age!) and I keep meaning to try it again, but always seem to forget to
nah dont use any of that stuff. just blast it and hope
Blimey. That's a stack of consoles!
Had a go at replacing that PS5 HDMI port, what a pain to get off. So much flux, so much heat. Ended up repurposing my 3D Printer as a heater to get some soak into the board, got it off cleanly and cleaned it up. New port on and... nothing.
I got a slightly green fuzzy screen once when it was repairing the drive (guess the owner got cheesed off with it and unplugged it halfway through boot), then nothing. Starts up as normal, ejects disks and makes all the right noises but I'll be damned if I can get it to display a picture again.
There was a tiny resistor between two of the traces that I think I lost in the desoldering process, I've read that it's "not needed" but I'm starting to think it is (why would it be there in the first place?!)...
you sure its a resistor? got a pic? could be a decoupling cap. We talking that little one right up near the port?
4 one X consoles sorted. One was just software, one I cant actually see anything wrong with. 2 were HDMI retimers. test process on the one x basically goes remove hdd power on does it display? If it doesnt measure pin 19 at the hdmi port if you get 5v the ESD is likely fine. After that swap the retimer 99% of the time that fixes it. Same process on the one S and the X.
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I had a busy weekend.
I upgraded my HTPC to a core I7. Won't restart, so quick probe around the Mobo and find that one of the Power button switch connector post is loose and the solder had disintegrated. Quick spot of solder and away she goes. It's very satisfying when you diagnose correctly and go from heart stopping and blaming yourself, to a happy chappy and know that you've 'done good'.
XBox 360 No1 is apart and I've cleaned up the Mobo. It a little cleaner than the pics below because after 2 hours of cleaning off the concrete aka thermal paste I took the photos for a change of pace, then finished off the job.
I'm determined to find how to paste an image into the forum. Currently it's rejecting anything https:\\ for me.
Everything else has arrived, except the power brick which Evri are taking on a magical mystery tour. HDD is 20 gb 2.5 inch SATA drive. I'll have a dig around for another larger one at some point, or just get a replacement. Never liked the 2.5 inch drives previously as I find them flimsy and less reliable than the 3.5 inch ones.
Do the wireless controllers have a 'power on' indicator? This will be apart soon for a clean up and replacing the joysticks.
In other news, in dug out my PSP. It won't charge so I'm guessing this can go on the 'todo' list? Can you get new batteries for them? Is there an OLED option for them?
Appears to be fine apart from that. In fact it's immaculate.
The wireless pad, when you put some batteries in and hold down the button at the front it should light up. I think I have a 360 pad here ill get you a pic.
The psp, really common for either the jack to go (its on a cable and easily replaceable on all of the models), otherwise a battery can be picked up pretty easily for them quality varies but ive grabbed aftermarket ones off amazon etc before and they have been fine. Just make sure you get the right battery for your model the 2000/3000 battery is slimmer than the 1000 battery.
A psp will turn on with no battery connected and connected to its ac adapter. Other common issue is with the ribbon that feeds the little LED's that show charging. ive seen them always orange, ive seen them green and never orange even though the battery is charging. It's always the flex cable with the led's on them. Ive got some in my box ill dig out the parts and show you the most likely culprits after work tomorrow. PSP imo is new enough and the stock screen is nice enough that its not worth modding. There are IPS options for them but for me it's not a mod ive bothered with yet.
Hmm. This one: https://www.reddit.com/r/consolerep...at_is_the_function_of_the_small_smd_directly/
Crap. Lets see if I've got one on my spools.
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Wisdom of the ancients said:
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Ahh you don't want to lose that... I think it's a decoupling cap to clean up the signal. If I'm right it removes AC signal from DC signaling. If the console produces a decent signal then it will likely still work. If not you wouldn't get any hdmi lock at a guess.
That's exactly what's happening. I think the disk repair screen must be at a lower resolution/or spec to the normal output as that generated with a fuzzy screen.
On the Amp I can see the HDMI light pop up as it tries to negotiate then it goes off. Guess it is needed then