Violent shaking while braking

therealpieman said:
I had an Alfa that had juddering brakes. Turned out one of the front disks had cracked... Worth getting it looked at sooner rather than later.
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Thanks, I will bear it in mind. If it is down to a crack, is it something which I may be able to see from visual inspection?
shauncr91 said:
For the cost of a set of new disks on a Polo it isn't really worth it for the pennies it'll save :p
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This is very true. Even fast road or semi racing brakes are reasonable. (semi-racing brakes on a 54HP car anyone? :D)
Gaygle said:
When the pad transfer stays on the disc for a decent amount of time without being cleared and going through multiple heat cycles, it forms an incredibly hard, crystalline structure which gets hot at a different rate to the rest of the steel disc around it, therefore creating a variant in friction levels.
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That is useful to know, thankyou. In your earlier post you said that I "can't" potentially sort it out with some 60 - 20 braking attempts etc, did you mean "can"?
 
acemastr said:
You don't need fast road brakes on your Polo, they will be useless when cold and it's a Polo
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I know I was only kidding, and pointing out that even performance brakes for the Polo probably cost less than normal brakes for some of the things you drive. :)
 
Acme said:
That is useful to know, thankyou. In your earlier post you said that I "can't" potentially sort it out with some 60 - 20 braking attempts etc, did you mean "can"?
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Sorry, yeh if it's relatively fresh and its only just started happening, maybe. This sort of thing also shows up bushes that may be weak that would have otherwise absorbed the judder, depending on its degree.

Luckily your discs are cheap. I had this exact issue on my 335i and after replacing the discs and pads 3 times, ended up having to replace them with OEM BMW parts at £500 + fitting. Even then it only reduced the judder rather than cure it - think some bushes may have been on their way out.
 
Sounds like warped discs to me, however a cautionary note would be to ensure your drive flanges are true with a run out gauge, before you fit the new discs to them.
 
So I just went out with my mate the mechanic, to replicate the issue, and it has subsided...

Unbelievable...

It has been like it for weeks, and I bet it will start again when I'm out on my own...

Any reason why it would happen with a 15st me in the drivers seat and nobody in the passenger seat, but would not happen with a 15st me in the drivers seat, and a 17st mechanic in the passenger seat?

The only thing I have done to the car since (which I hardly think will be related at all) is righting the passenger side door which had dropped by about 1cm.
 
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Wierd then as I've managed to un-warped juddering disks.

There is no way you will warp a disk with normal road usage
 
Freefaller said:
Fair comment I'm used to more expensive brakes :p
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Freefaller:

Good disks are £25 for a pair, cheapo ones are £15 for a pair.
Good pads are £25 a set, cheapo ones are £12 a set.
Genuine shocks are £30 a corner
A good clutch is £60

I can buy brand new, primed, pattern wings for £16 each! :D

Used parts are silly cheap too. A complete door including electric window mechanism, glass, trim, and good paintwork would be under £50 on eBay, and I could buy a complete engine for £380 with 75K~ on it. :p

The parts are ridiculously cheap, and that fact is going to be the main thing I miss about this car. :p

Lots of parts are very easy to fit as well. Having never attempted anything of the sort before, I changed the suspension all round, as well as the driveshafts and a few other bits and pieces. :p (inb4 "theres your problem")
 
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Just for the record
"I love cheap **** cars. I own one.

Needed a new Outer CV joint for the pending MOT next week...
Couldn't be bothered getting all greasy as they are a right PITA to do on an early Peugeot.
Bought a brand new complete drive shaft with CV's and boots, in the box.... £36. :D

Snapped the bleed nipple off the front caliper (rusted solid) had a quick attempt at left handed drilling it out.. Nope, bugger that too, new caliper including slider mech (which the dust seals were perished on anyway).... £16 :D

Now all I've got left to do is weld the rotten boot floor/inner wing... Doh!
There's the disadvantage... old **** cars tend to rust. :(
 
...forgot to mention, because i'm too laid back I 'lived' with the brake judder for months. When it came to MOT, not only did I have to change the discs/pads but also the lower ball joints (on a Cougar was a ***** nightmare) serves me right for being lazy!

get 'em done ASAP!
 
Fuzz said:
Just for the record
"I love cheap **** cars. I own one.

Needed a new Outer CV joint for the pending MOT next week...
Couldn't be bothered getting all greasy as they are a right PITA to do on an early Peugeot.
Bought a brand new complete drive shaft with CV's and boots, in the box.... £36. :D

Snapped the bleed nipple off the front caliper (rusted solid) had a quick attempt at left handed drilling it out.. Nope, bugger that too, new caliper including slider mech (which the dust seals were perished on anyway).... £16 :D

Now all I've got left to do is weld the rotten boot floor/inner wing... Doh!
There's the disadvantage... old **** cars tend to rust. :(
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Yes but you also work in a garage with access to the right gear and trade prices :p
 
Freefaller said:
Yes but you also work in a garage with access to the right gear and trade prices :p
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I have access to a reasonable amount of gear since I live with my parents and Dad is an engineer with a workshop in the back garden.

I can also get quite a-lot of stuff at trade or just above thanks to having two family friends who own garages. :)

Though it must be very convenient to work in a garage... :p
 
You can still get massive discount as a cash/counter customer at all motor factors. "Trade prices" are probably only 10% less than what you would pay over the counter.
For reference the RRP stated on the parts invoice for the driveshaft was something around £116 quid.
This is the price that the garage charges the customer.
 
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