Want to learn soldering [PCBs]

25W is fine for most applications if you use lead/tin solder (recommended).

You only really need adjustable irons if you're messing about with lead free solder, which is rubbish in all honesty.
 
Actually what about a cheap cmoy amp as a starter project, they can be had for £15 on the bay and all you need to supply is an altoids tin.

I've done the odd pcb job, so will be doing a cmoy build soon as the time is right.
 
Variable temperature iron - 30-50W, preferably with changeable tips. At least one fine tip and one flathead.

Sponge, always wet it and quickly wipe the iron on it after each joint.

Get a helping hand. Godsend.

Get a solder sucker for £3 on ebay. Godsend.

Always keep the tip tinned, never turn the iron off without leaving it tinned.

Never put more solder on than is needed in the hope it will fix an already bad joint. Desolder and start again.

That's about it really. The rest is just practice.
 
Variable temperature iron - 30-50W, preferably with changeable tips. At least one fine tip and one flathead.

Sponge, always wet it and quickly wipe the iron on it after each joint.

Get a helping hand. Godsend.

Get a solder sucker for £3 on ebay. Godsend.

Always keep the tip tinned, never turn the iron off without leaving it tinned.

Never put more solder on than is needed in the hope it will fix an already bad joint. Desolder and start again.

That's about it really. The rest is just practice.

^looks like some good advice, bullet pointed, just how i like my tips and hints

so higher wattage is better it seems, those links i have actually come across, are useful



ok recommendations for 30-50W variable temp irons?

cheers for all the help so far guys :)
 
^looks like some good advice, bullet pointed, just how i like my tips and hints

so higher wattage is better it seems, those links i have actually come across, are useful



ok recommendations for 30-50W variable temp irons?

cheers for all the help so far guys :)

If you're just starting off then you probably don't want to be buying all this kit. Would you know when to change the temperature? No, i stand by my original suggestion of a cheap Antex to learn the ropes with, higher wattage doesn't necessarily mean it's better for beginners.

And i would also stress my earlier point about lead-free solder, make your own mind up about it :)
 
I'm dubious of your suggestion to use lead based solder. Nasty stuff, especially when you'll probably be breathing it in.

To my knowledge it's never resulted in any issues for anyone, and if you are concerned about it other than opening a window, you can get fume extractors.
 
I'm dubious of your suggestion to use lead based solder. Nasty stuff, especially when you'll probably be breathing it in.

I solder outsite or in a well ventilated room when using leaded solder. This sunny weather is ideal for soldering outside. :)

The lead free stuff also produces fumes, are these less harmful?
 
If you're just starting off then you probably don't want to be buying all this kit. Would you know when to change the temperature? No, i stand by my original suggestion of a cheap Antex to learn the ropes with, higher wattage doesn't necessarily mean it's better for beginners.

And i would also stress my earlier point about lead-free solder, make your own mind up about it :)

If there is that danger of breathing in lead fumes then maybe non lead is besr, anyone else agree?

I was just thinking of getting the variable temperature one for planning for the future
 
If there is that danger of breathing in lead fumes then maybe non lead is besr, anyone else agree?

Learn to solder and perfect your joints with lead. If your worried about the (flux) fumes, then hook up a small PC fan to extract the fumes away from you. Going lead free will not be smooth, and will need a rethink* on how you solder, if this is just a home hobby type thing then just keep with the lead solder.

*And by rethink i mean new equipment, solder, not using a wet sponge. I use PBF all day and have no issues, but it has taken me some time to get my head around the new problems. I have now specified new irons for work (Ersa Icon's), gone through countless reels of solder to get exactly what we need. As a hobbyiest you don't need to go through this agro.
 
right im looking to buy something this weekend these are the main brands ive come across

silverline
antex
weller
xytronic
mercury
generic ones from the bay etc

think im after a temperature variable one, just for the future even if i wont use it much immediately, and one with a station

looking at max price of around £40 for a variable temp iron
 
Last edited:
I solder a bit mostly guiitar related (amps pedals)

i have been using ****** lead free solder and there variable power solder station it does a ok job not great takes a while to heat up but you can back the heat off a bit if needed

i use a dry metal scouring pad to clean the tip and i have not had to change it yet
 
Dry metal scourer?! :eek:

I just use damp tissue which does a perfectly good job without wearing the plating of the tip away. The only time you need something even slightly abrasive is if someone's properly caked the tip in filth.
 
Dry metal scourer?! :eek:

I just use damp tissue which does a perfectly good job without wearing the plating of the tip away. The only time you need something even slightly abrasive is if someone's properly caked the tip in filth.

Dont know if was the lead free solder but i went throuigh a lot of tips with cheap irons wetting the tip to clean it

you dont actually scour it just wipe it with it and you have a clean tip same principal as the tins of metal shavings you get to clean your tip
 
Yeah, good point. I forgot the £300 JBC station I use at work has an inbuilt cleaner made from stainless steel swarf. :o Just proper scouring is a no-no. I use a damp tissue which is pretty much as good, as is a damp sponge, of if you really CBA - the overall you're wearing!

Another brand worth considering is Aoyue. They're meant to be quite good, and I was on the brink of buying one last year but didn't see the point in the end, as I have access to all the soldering equipment I need at work.
 
I've got one of the latest gen temperature controlled stations, IR BGA for reballing, hot air rework for SMD. All good stuff, but if I'm honest the best iron I have is my dads 40 year old Magnastat based Weller W60D. Damn near indestructible if serviced correctly. Uses an internal magnet to control the power to the temperature range of the bit. You just use the tip with the temperature/size to suit the job. A little extra wattage can't hurt. A large heat-sink, earth plane can suck up some heat. As long as the tip is temperature controlled. As said earlier, get in, watch it flow and get out. I always use multi-core leaded solder, so much simpler for repairs/mods etc.

Just got into printing and etching my own pcbs. Turned an old scanner into an uv developer, made a regen copper chloride etching tank. The hardest bit is the micro-drilling. So many things you can look at, great hobby.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom