Water tubing

Vertigo

Vertigo

Vertigo

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Joined
28 Dec 2003
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Ok I'm new at this water cooling lark and so I'm trying to learn but I have a question about barbs & tubing.

Am I right in thinking that it's best to have tubing with a slightly smaller diameter than the barbs to aid in getting a tight seal? If so what would people recommend? I was thinking of 1/2" OD barbs with either 3/8" or 7/16" ID tubing. Is this the way to go or am I missing something?
 
I'm using the same here, Masterkleer 7/16" and 1/2" barbs. Works great.

One tip though, you may want to dip the end of the tube in boiling water before fitting it on the barb to help with getting it on.
 
Masterkleer 7/16" with 1/2" barbs here too.

and perhaps not boiling water, but certainly hot water! otherwise it can go too floppy to get over the barb/ i use a mug of hot de-ionised water.
 
Thanks guys. Had already read about the hot water trick :)

Was intending to go with standard cable (zip) ties rather than jubilee clips as I've read that the latter can pinch and damage the ends of the tubing - not sure how genuine a concern this is.

While I'm here, does anyone have any links to some good noob guides on flushing/filling a complete system? Whilst I can put it all together without too much trouble, I'm a bit unclear on the best ways of filling the system without getting water everywhere and I've also read that it's best to flush out blocks and rads first to get rid of any initial debris from manufacture. Is this step necessary? Do I use normal tap water or distilled for flushing?

So many questions :)
 
Filling is no more difficult than getting as much water into the res and down to the pump as possible, then starting the pump (not the computer - look for how to hotwire the psu) and being ready to add lots more water to the res.

Bleeding is really just a matter of letting the loop run while you leak test and rocking the case to get any trapped bubble to move.

Flushing blocks and rads is a luxury in my opinion. Hook up the rad to the garden hose and fire mains pressure water through it for a few seconds. With blocks, I prefer to dismantle them and inspect the insides for any loose particles.
 
Vertigo1 said:
Ok I'm new at this water cooling lark and so I'm trying to learn but I have a question about barbs & tubing.

Am I right in thinking that it's best to have tubing with a slightly smaller diameter than the barbs to aid in getting a tight seal? If so what would people recommend? I was thinking of 1/2" OD barbs with either 3/8" or 7/16" ID tubing. Is this the way to go or am I missing something?
Click to expand...

Tubing size makes very little difference to temps http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=147767 , so go with what you like. 7/16 looks nicer but is more difficult to route.
 
I've used Tygon 7/16 on 1/2 barbs and over a year later had to dismantle the loop and was dreading taking off the tubing but surprisingly it slid off real easy so definately put clamps on.

Why is no one using Tygon tubing anymore, it used to be the best stuff out there 2 years ago, now Masterkleer seems to be the tubing of choice?
 
Tygon changes colour (becomes cloudy) too quickly with dye's, and also helps block UV, main resons (other than price) that people go with masterclear.

1/2" barbs and 7/16" tubing, a lot of people don't use clamps, but i like to be save, i use barbs with rubber o-rings and still use ptfe tape. I use wormdrive clips because i have 1/2" tygon with 1/2" barbs... i'm making sure the hose flippin well stay on!
 
Junk said:
7/16 does not require clamps on 1/2 barbs!
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You can get away without it but I wouldn't recommend it. I have tried this combination and failed. Also different barb's and tubing types create varying strengths of seals.

3/8" Tygon and 1/2" barbs worked best for me. With the help of some hot water I managed 3/8" tubing over MartinM oversized T lines. Say's a lot.
 
I'd say if you had the right barbs (like the larger ribbed ones-ooer!) you'll be fine with 7/16 as long as you don't want to make a habit of going in the case.

I've had that setup for a few months now with no issues but when I went in to try and get a hdd out it was easy to start pulling the tubing off the barbs, I just doubt the force of the water would do it on its own especially if you're using a 10w ddc for example.

Just use feser or the like to be on the safe side should it leak, or if you're worried go for colour coded cable ties to add extra seal and bling?

3/8 over 1/2 barbs is doable but in my experience its a total nightmare of pain, sweat and frustration. Bit like my love life ;)
 
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